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#1
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Disk vs Drum on Trailer
I'm sure RAS has an opinion. I'm going to be putting brakes on my
trailer. I'll be adding a Flexride axle and I can either buy just the axle and buy drum brakes to fit it or i can get it shipped with Disk Brakes installed. Thoughts? |
#2
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Disk vs Drum on Trailer
On May 20, 1:49*pm, Tony wrote:
I'm sure RAS has an opinion. *I'm going to be putting brakes on my trailer. *I'll be adding a Flexride axle and I can either buy just the axle and buy drum brakes to fit it or i can get it shipped with Disk Brakes installed. Thoughts? Disc brakes hadn't been invented when the Cherokee was built ! |
#3
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Disk vs Drum on Trailer
*I'll be adding a Flexride axle and I can either buy just the
axle and buy drum brakes to fit it or i can get it shipped with Disk Brakes installed. Thoughts? Electric- which *effectively reduces your options to drum. (*there are elec/hydraulic setups for disc, but for some reason I don't think you want to add $k+ to the total...) So far the only arguments I've heard against elec brakes are that basically only your tow vehicle or others outfitted with the correct controller will work with them. No problem for most, since it will be your own vehicle that racks up most towing miles your own trailer. Also there is no 'real' parking brake, but pulling the pin on the emergency brake cutaway switch provides at least 20min of locked wheels. There are a whole host of problems that plague surge activated hydraulics, rendering them a less desirable choice for glider trailers in my book. Elec are much much cheaper, reliable, easy to maintain, replace, etc. Hydraulic are expensive, finicky and bottom line unreliable in the long term. Search for posts here as the subjects have been well beaten to death in the past. Take note of all the problems folks have with hydraulics (like self engaging down hills and burning hubs/drums/ wheels, sticky mechanisms not engaging brakes when you need them and think they will be there, general wear/adjustment/replacement issues etc), and how much they've spent to retain them rather than switching to elec the first sign of trouble that costs more than new complete elec setup. I'll send you my 10 point list (or repost it here if requested...) on elec brakes vs surge brakes to your PM if you like. -Paul |
#4
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Disk vs Drum on Trailer
Youve already sent me your 10 commandments Paul. But I think I'm
going to go with hydraulic so that I don't have to worry about maintaining a battery for break away and so anyone can hook up and pull the trailer. |
#5
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Disk vs Drum on Trailer
"Tony" wrote Youve already sent me your 10 commandments Paul. But I think I'm going to go with hydraulic so that I don't have to worry about maintaining a battery for break away and so anyone can hook up and pull the trailer. Sounds like you were about already decided on the hydraulic, anyway. I'll toss out one factor in favor of electric that nobody has mentioned yet. If you have electric brakes, and a sway starts to develop, (seems to be a common theme with glider trailers) or has already gotten well developed and getting REALLY hairy, a slight tap or easy pressure on the brake controller will straighten up that trailer RIGHT NOW ! ! ! It is amazing if you have never used electric brakes for that purpose. That reason in itself is the _best_ reason in the world to go with electric. Shoot, go for two axles, get reduced sway characteristics, and put electric on one axle and hydraulic on the other. The argument that the tow vehicle can only be your own does not hold water, in my opinion. In most cases the controller will work fine, and in some, the new vehicle might have to adjust the bias, slightly. Not a big problem in most cases. If you go electric, make sure you use a standard plug, and have it wired according to standard, also. Get an electronic controller that is easily adjustable if you want to tow other people's trailers. Re-think your decision, I think. -- Jim in NC |
#6
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Disk vs Drum on Trailer
On May 20, 2:30*pm, Tony wrote:
Youve already sent me your 10 commandments Paul. *But I think I'm going to go with hydraulic so that I don't have to worry about maintaining a battery for break away and so anyone can hook up and pull the trailer. Hydraulic can be just fine; I've got hydraulic brakes on my whale trailer. Its got plenty of miles on it (though not in the last decade) ! Make sure you can find a light enough actuator (surge tongue assembly) for your application; most are intended for heavier trailer weights... See ya, Dave |
#7
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Disk vs Drum on Trailer
On May 20, 11:15*am, Dave Nadler wrote:
Disc brakes hadn't been invented when the Cherokee was built ! "Disc-style brakes development and use began in England in the 1890s. The first caliper-type automobile disc brake was patented by Frederick William Lanchester in his Birmingham, UK factory in 1902 and used successfully on Lanchester cars." |
#8
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Disk vs Drum on Trailer
Am I to believe that RAS has no opinion about Disk vs Drum brakes??
Obviously you all have an opinion about all the stuff that I didnt ask about |
#9
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Disk vs Drum on Trailer
On May 20, 9:14*pm, Tony wrote:
Am I to believe that RAS has no opinion about Disk vs Drum brakes?? Obviously you all have an opinion about all the stuff that I didnt ask about I've only had overrun drum brakes on glider trailers. I haven't towed off with the parking brake engaged, thus I've never damaged them. I once had a dual axle trailer with one braked axle. Tracked straight but was a bugger to turn into a tight spot. Eventually one of the wheels fatigued and failed around the center and took off on its own one day. However the trailer was quite happy to keep moving on three wheels. I replaced the duals axles with a single axle. I'm not a fan of electric brakes though I did have them on a boat trailer long ago. I understand the attraction. I prefer the flexibility of any number of vehicles towing and having trailer brakes, so I prefer surge brakes, whether hydraulic or mechanical as on my LAK-12 trailer, which work just fine. You just have to maintain them. I've towed several glider trailers over many states and mountain passes with a Dodge RAM Van and an F150 4WD. 5-6 of those trailers had not brakes, so that's my minimum tow vehicle size with no brakes. I don't recommend driving at night with a glider trailer in tow. There are just way too many deer. In Wyoming they plant nice prairie grass along the Interstates for erosion control. Guess where the deer spend the night? We counted 14 deer grazing in median and along side I-25 south of Sheridan. Next morning, just into Montana, we saw an 18-wheeler that pulverized a deer at night, but it also buried that big front bumper into the left front wheel and wasn't going anywhere except by wrecker. Frank Whiteley |
#10
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Disk vs Drum on Trailer
I'll second Jim's response... Go electric.
A "Panic" button connected to the controller would be just the thing to stop an inadvertant or unplanned trailer sway. My $0.02. Larry "Morgans" wrote in message : "Tony" wrote Youve already sent me your 10 commandments Paul. But I think I'm going to go with hydraulic so that I don't have to worry about maintaining a battery for break away and so anyone can hook up and pull the trailer. Sounds like you were about already decided on the hydraulic, anyway. I'll toss out one factor in favor of electric that nobody has mentioned yet. If you have electric brakes, and a sway starts to develop, (seems to be a common theme with glider trailers) or has already gotten well developed and getting REALLY hairy, a slight tap or easy pressure on the brake controller will straighten up that trailer RIGHT NOW ! ! ! It is amazing if you have never used electric brakes for that purpose. That reason in itself is the _best_ reason in the world to go with electric. Shoot, go for two axles, get reduced sway characteristics, and put electric on one axle and hydraulic on the other. The argument that the tow vehicle can only be your own does not hold water, in my opinion. In most cases the controller will work fine, and in some, the new vehicle might have to adjust the bias, slightly. Not a big problem in most cases. If you go electric, make sure you use a standard plug, and have it wired according to standard, also. Get an electronic controller that is easily adjustable if you want to tow other people's trailers. Re-think your decision, I think. -- Jim in NC |
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