I upgraded the cable on my 38 year old Std Cirrus.
My replacement is the rear brake cable from a Honda motorcycle. Had to
cut the fitting off one end and fit a ferrule after threading through
the whole system. Reward is a noticeable improvement. i.e. there is some
retardation from the ridiculous Tost Lilliput wheel. Generally good for
two good stops between adjustments...

Greg Arnold wrote:
DRN wrote:
On Nov 26, 12:27 pm, Greg Arnold wrote:
DRN wrote:
On Nov 26, 11:32 am, Andy wrote:
http://www.nadler.com/public/ventus2...ke%20cable.htm
Man that's ugly!
Why would anyone ruin a great hydraulic disc brake by actuating the
master cylinder with a bicycle cable?
Andy
That is a very good question.
Antares uses a direct mechanical connection from spoiler
pushrod to master-cylinder actuation lever, no Bowden cable.
A Bowden cable is a SPRING, and bicycle-grade is really
silly in these applications (especially 8 foot long with a
Tost "wheel brake").
I believe SH has upgraded new production to use Beringer parts;
hopefully they have stopped doing this on the actuation side...
See ya, Dave "YO electric"
No, still using the bicycle cable with the Beringer system. See the
installation instructions he

http://schempp-hirth.com/fileadmin/t...49-33-2444.pdf

Aaarggg - It does work adequately with a beefier Bowden cable...


I upgraded to a disc brake on my 20-year-old Discus. I have the very
same issues there, and haven't had any good ideas about how to upgrade
to a beefier Bowden cable (motorcycle cable?) that still will work with
the fittings designed for the bicycle cable. Also, I have wondered how
a stiffer cable would affect the feel at the stick -- seems it would be
stiffer in pitch.