Ventus 2cx brake

I upgraded the cable on my 38 year old Std Cirrus.
My replacement is the rear brake cable from a Honda motorcycle. Had to
cut the fitting off one end and fit a ferrule after threading through
the whole system. Reward is a noticeable improvement. i.e. there is some
retardation from the ridiculous Tost Lilliput wheel. Generally good for
two good stops between adjustments...

Greg Arnold wrote:
DRN wrote:
On Nov 26, 12:27 pm, Greg Arnold wrote:
DRN wrote:
On Nov 26, 11:32 am, Andy wrote:
http://www.nadler.com/public/ventus2...ke%20cable.htm
Man that's ugly!
Why would anyone ruin a great hydraulic disc brake by actuating the
master cylinder with a bicycle cable?
Andy
That is a very good question.
Antares uses a direct mechanical connection from spoiler
pushrod to master-cylinder actuation lever, no Bowden cable.
A Bowden cable is a SPRING, and bicycle-grade is really
silly in these applications (especially 8 foot long with a
Tost "wheel brake").
I believe SH has upgraded new production to use Beringer parts;
hopefully they have stopped doing this on the actuation side...
See ya, Dave "YO electric"
No, still using the bicycle cable with the Beringer system. See the
installation instructions he

http://schempp-hirth.com/fileadmin/t...49-33-2444.pdf

Aaarggg - It does work adequately with a beefier Bowden cable...


I upgraded to a disc brake on my 20-year-old Discus. I have the very
same issues there, and haven't had any good ideas about how to upgrade
to a beefier Bowden cable (motorcycle cable?) that still will work with
the fittings designed for the bicycle cable. Also, I have wondered how
a stiffer cable would affect the feel at the stick -- seems it would be
stiffer in pitch.

On Nov 26, 1:28*pm, Bruce wrote:
I upgraded the cable on my 38 year old Std Cirrus.
My replacement is the rear brake cable from a Honda motorcycle. Had to
cut the fitting off one end and fit a ferrule after threading through
the whole system. Reward is a noticeable improvement. i.e. there is some
retardation from the ridiculous Tost Lilliput wheel. Generally good for
two good stops between adjustments...



Greg Arnold wrote:
DRN wrote:
On Nov 26, 12:27 pm, Greg Arnold wrote:
DRN wrote:
On Nov 26, 11:32 am, Andy wrote:
http://www.nadler.com/public/ventus2...ke%20cable.htm
Man that's ugly!
Why would anyone ruin a great hydraulic disc brake by actuating the
master cylinder with a bicycle cable?
Andy
That is a very good question.
Antares uses a direct mechanical connection from spoiler
pushrod to master-cylinder actuation lever, no Bowden cable.
A Bowden cable is a SPRING, and bicycle-grade is really
silly in these applications (especially 8 foot long with a
Tost "wheel brake").
I believe SH has upgraded new production to use Beringer parts;
hopefully they have stopped doing this on the actuation side...
See ya, Dave "YO electric"
No, still using the bicycle cable with the Beringer system. *See the
installation instructions he

http://schempp-hirth.com/fileadmin/t...49-33-2444.pdf

Aaarggg - It does work adequately with a beefier Bowden cable...

I upgraded to a disc brake on my 20-year-old Discus. *I have the very
same issues there, and haven't had any good ideas about how to upgrade
to a beefier Bowden cable (motorcycle cable?) that still will work with
the fittings designed for the bicycle cable. *Also, I have wondered how
a stiffer cable would affect the feel at the stick -- seems it would be
stiffer in pitch.- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

Heheh all this talk about overly complex brakes makes me happy to have
the flintstone brakes on my Ka-6. Simple piece of sheetmetal that gets
pulled over the wheel, and It works. I haven't landed out in it yet,
but the combo of full top and bottom surface brakes, plus the wheel
brake make it stop in a pretty small area.

Pete

vontresc wrote:


Heheh all this talk about overly complex brakes makes me happy to have
the flintstone brakes on my Ka-6. Simple piece of sheetmetal that gets
pulled over the wheel, and It works. I haven't landed out in it yet,
but the combo of full top and bottom surface brakes, plus the wheel
brake make it stop in a pretty small area.

Be *really* careful landing on a wet or damp runway. Water is a
wonderful lubricant between tire tread and sheet metal. Your "pretty
small area" will slide by in a flash! Been there, did that, fortunately
stopped short of the fence near the end of the runway. When it was dry,
it did an excellent job.

--
Eric Greenwell - Washington State, USA
* Change "netto" to "net" to email me directly

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