![]() |
If this is your first visit, be sure to check out the FAQ by clicking the link above. You may have to register before you can post: click the register link above to proceed. To start viewing messages, select the forum that you want to visit from the selection below. |
|
|
Thread Tools | Display Modes |
#11
|
|||
|
|||
![]()
"Morgans" wrote in
: "cavelamb" wrote Might I ask if there is a reason for holding 2 psi? That seems a tad low... I was wondering the same thing. I usually go with around 32 Oxy, and 7 Acet. I am surprised he could get a neutral flame with those settings, but he claims to know what a neutral flame is, and that he is getting it. I wonder if his gauges are off... 32psi? That sounds more like "cutting tip" O2 pressure, not welding. ???? |
#12
|
|||
|
|||
![]() "Ken Moffett" wrote 32psi? That sounds more like "cutting tip" O2 pressure, not welding. Yeah, you're right, it is. My mistake. Ever try to weld with a cutting tip? Not easy, but it can be done! g I wouldn't try to weld an airplane with a cutting torch, though. Quite frankly, I do so little gas welding, I just play with it, until I like it. I don't remember what I use. Does around 12 pounds sound about right? That's what seems to come to mind. Still, 2 pounds is not very much. I tend to use the knobs on the torch to control the flow, as the most important control. I would think that if you were using two pounds, you would have to have the knobs all of the way open. I would think it would be hard to keep a consistent flame, like that. -- Jim in NC |
#13
|
|||
|
|||
![]()
Ken Moffett wrote:
"Morgans" wrote in : "cavelamb" wrote Might I ask if there is a reason for holding 2 psi? That seems a tad low... I was wondering the same thing. I usually go with around 32 Oxy, and 7 Acet. I am surprised he could get a neutral flame with those settings, but he claims to know what a neutral flame is, and that he is getting it. I wonder if his gauges are off... 32psi? That sounds more like "cutting tip" O2 pressure, not welding. ???? Weeeel, Jim, he likes a nice hot tip! I run 7 and 14. 1 to 2? or maybe it's 2 to 1? Richard |
#14
|
|||
|
|||
![]()
On Wed, 14 Jun 2006 16:52:17 -0400, "Capt. Geoffrey Thorpe" The Sea
Hawk at wow way d0t com wrote: "mhorowit" wrote in message oups.com... I'm having a welding problem. I'm using an OxyAcy rig. I'm running 2 psi for each gas thru a .025 diameter tip. I find that in order to weld join two pieces of .035 tubing with this tip, I must adjust the flame until it's no larger than 3/16" long. Otherwise I'm heating up too much of an area and burning away the outer sleeve (in the case of a splice using an inner sleeve). A flame that small is very difficult to adjust. I'm puzzled because the charts I'm looking at show a tip of this size is appropriate for this size work. Can you suggest what might be my problem? - Regards, Mike Heat needs to be mostly directed towards the inner sleeve and away from the easy to burn exposed edge. Using a larger diameter welding rod to shield the exposed edge can help. But it sounds like, in spite of what your chart says, you need to use a smaller tip. Just be sure you are getting enough of a puddle on the sleeve as you turn down the heat. I'm going to try using the optimal settings (adjust Acy first to where the flame jumps off the tip, then add O2 to get to neutral) and backing away from the work; it just seemed easier to work with a smaller flame and get the tip to within 1/4" of the work - Mike |
#15
|
|||
|
|||
![]() "Michael Horowitz" wrote I'm going to try using the optimal settings (adjust Acy first to where the flame jumps off the tip, then add O2 to get to neutral) and backing away from the work; it just seemed easier to work with a smaller flame and get the tip to within 1/4" of the work - Mike Wow. 1/4" seems to be a lot, lot closer than I am from the metal. Perhaps that is your problem; the heat is too concentrated. I'll bet my distance is 3/4" to 1". How about anyone else? How close are you to the work, with the tip of the torch? -- Jim in NC |
#16
|
|||
|
|||
![]() Morgans wrote: "Michael Horowitz" wrote I'm going to try using the optimal settings (adjust Acy first to where the flame jumps off the tip, then add O2 to get to neutral) and backing away from the work; it just seemed easier to work with a smaller flame and get the tip to within 1/4" of the work - Mike Wow. 1/4" seems to be a lot, lot closer than I am from the metal. Perhaps that is your problem; the heat is too concentrated. I'll bet my distance is 3/4" to 1". How about anyone else? How close are you to the work, with the tip of the torch? -- Jim in NC Jim - I seem to have fallen into a trap. Instead of reducing the amount of heat by torch position, I simply reduced the heat by cutting down on the cone size. That got me close to the work. I'm going to practice with the 'approved' method of producing a neutral cone and backing away; more practice.EAA book says start with the tip 1" from the metal - Mike |
#17
|
|||
|
|||
![]()
32oxy and 7 acet??? thats more like cutting torch pressures. About 5psi
of each is more than enough. In fact, I used Kent "Tinman" Whites method (I use a meco midget). you open the valves on the torch handle wide open, then crack the acetylene regulator valve (not the tank valve, thats already open) until you can feel the acetylne on your cheek, light it, adjust it, then start turning in the oxygen regulator valve to get your neutral flame. Note: point the torch AWAY from your face before lighting!! ![]() Done this way, the gauges on my regulators are pratically on the pins with hardly any reading at all. John |
#18
|
|||
|
|||
![]()
In practice, I seem to wind up with the blue flame about 1/2" or so away
from the metal, depending on how much heat is in the metal, etc. What I do is adjust the acetylene until its just barely stopped smoking. This is the point where you get the "feathered" flame. Then I add the oxy for a neutral flame. It sounds to me that the OP needs a smaller tip anyway. John |
#19
|
|||
|
|||
![]()
John T wrote:
32oxy and 7 acet??? thats more like cutting torch pressures. About 5psi of each is more than enough. In fact, I used Kent "Tinman" Whites method (I use a meco midget). you open the valves on the torch handle wide open, then crack the acetylene regulator valve (not the tank valve, thats already open) until you can feel the acetylne on your cheek, light it, adjust it, then start turning in the oxygen regulator valve to get your neutral flame. Note: point the torch AWAY from your face before lighting!! ![]() Done this way, the gauges on my regulators are pratically on the pins with hardly any reading at all. John THanks, John. I remember reading that. Will give it a try next time. Richard |
#20
|
|||
|
|||
![]()
John T wrote:
In practice, I seem to wind up with the blue flame about 1/2" or so away from the metal, depending on how much heat is in the metal, etc. What I do is adjust the acetylene until its just barely stopped smoking. This is the point where you get the "feathered" flame. Then I add the oxy for a neutral flame. It sounds to me that the OP needs a smaller tip anyway. John Especially for welding thin wall 4130. I use an O and an OO on a Vector F-100. It's a log compared to the Meco, but it works well... Richard |
Thread Tools | |
Display Modes | |
|
|
![]() |
||||
Thread | Thread Starter | Forum | Replies | Last Post |
Welding question - | Michael Horowitz | Restoration | 11 | September 7th 06 03:52 PM |
Welding question: 43-13-1B, Fig.4-43 | Mike | Restoration | 0 | May 15th 06 02:36 PM |
Aluminum welding | Ernest Christley | Home Built | 5 | April 24th 06 11:47 AM |
Welding question | Mike | Restoration | 4 | February 20th 06 02:23 PM |
Welding question | Michael Horowitz | Home Built | 1 | October 13th 05 09:53 PM |