bleeding Duo Discus brakes

On Jan 16, 1:56*pm, Morgan wrote:
This pretty much nails what ended up working for me. *I ended up
removing the whole system from the ship and flushing it forwards and
backwards to make sure there wasn't any old fluid or particles in the
system. *Popped the piston out and inspected it and the cylinder wall
for corrosion and pitting. *Overall things looked pretty good, but it
got a good cleaning while I was in there.

Funny, you'll jump through all sorts of hoops and delays to avoid
doing it the "hard way" and in the end that was the least traumatic
and fastest way to get it to work. *It took me way longer than it
should have, but the upside is that I know my braking system inside an
out now and it is time for new pads as well.

Thanks for the tips.

Morgan

On Jan 16, 9:23*am, rhwoody wrote:



On Jan 11, 12:30*am, Morgan wrote:

Looking for advice on bleeding the brakes on my Duo with the tost 30-9
caliper. *I replaced a shot bleeder valve with a new stahlbus valve,
but after futzing with the system for over an hour, I can't get the
brake to firm up to an acceptable level.

I've tried using a suction device to pull fluid (Dot 4 in the Duo)
down through the line. *I've also gone with my normal old standby of
pushing fluid up through the brake using a syringe. *The Stahlbus
valve is not working as advertised or rather the brake isn't. *The
brake doesn't seem to be creating enough pressure to overcome the
spring tension on the check valve.

The best I've been able to get to so far is a fairly spongy grip on
the rotor. Enough that turning by hand isn't possible, but it doesn't
feel like it would slow you down much when you needed it.

Basically it just doesn't feel like the master cylinder is drawing
fluid in or maybe there is a hidden air bubble.

Any thoughts from the internet hive on the quirks of this beast?
It's certainly been a much greater hassle than I expected. *I'm
guessing at this point that either there is a trick that I don't know
about or something is malfunctioning.

Thanks,

Morgan

Hi All, *I have owned a lot of SH gliders and have had success doing
the following -
unbolt the brake cylinder and raise it up so there is no "loop" in the
brake line -
so the path from the brake calipers to the brake cylinder goes only
uphill -
first try to actuate the brake cylinder lever - sometimes this will
"burp" the air
bubble up into the brake cylinder - otherwise fill fluid from the
bottom nipple
until the air bubble goes into the brake cylinder reservoir - *most
times the
air bubble will burp into the reservoir and no filling is necessary -
good luck,
Ralph Woodward- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

Changing the fluid every 6 or 8 years is a very good idea. I checked
my system last year by having a helper (wife) pump the master cylinder
a few strokes and then hold the pressure as I bled out the pressure at
the brake.............just like we did in the 1934 Ford. You wouldn't
believe what came out, thick gooey stuff that wasn't even red anymore!
I had to repeat this for several cycles before the bled fluid started
showing red fluid. I also replace my pads when they show less than
1/8" which can be easuly seen with a flashlight and mirror.
Cheers,
JJ