Instrument panel labeling

On Thursday, January 9, 2020 at 9:26:27 PM UTC-5, wrote:
I'm looking for ideas on how to make professional looking placards/labels...

I've used https://www.frontpanelexpress.com - they do a great job.
They can do enclosures, for example lettering and cut-outs (DSUB, LED) on
the CAN-repeater I designed for Antares:

http://www.nadler.com/Antares/WCAN3_...ed_closeup.JPG

Great for larger parts like a fuse sub-panel as well as smaller stuff.
Hope that helps,
Best Regards, Dave

These are some great ideas. I like the durability of the anodized/engraved plates but was hoping to find something like the transfer that Cookie suggested from Decalprofx. If you read this, how durable have the decals been? Did you apply a clear coat over them? I think I could be happy with either of these results.

Doug

Yes, I sprayed a super light coat of clear "fixative". Plane has yet to fly, so not sure of how it holds up.....but many aircraft use this system.


Cookie




On Friday, January 10, 2020 at 2:58:13 PM UTC-5, wrote:
These are some great ideas. I like the durability of the anodized/engraved plates but was hoping to find something like the transfer that Cookie suggested from Decalprofx. If you read this, how durable have the decals been? Did you apply a clear coat over them? I think I could be happy with either of these results.

Doug

These are all great ideas, but if you want the most professional, readable, permanent, and flexible solution, use laser engraving of special plastic laminate sold by Johnson Plastics and others. The laser can cut a profile for the label(s), cut holes for connectors to mount through, and label the connectors. The material has a self adhesive backing so you can peal and stick to the panel.

I use LaserMax Rowmark White/Black 2 ply 1/16" thick with excellent results.. You can see a picture of my panel he https://www.dropbox.com/s/q6355wzj96...label.jpg?dl=0 A single placard takes care of all the items on the right side of the panel. I plan to do the required placards as well using this method.

Ideally a single label will handle multiple fuses/breakers, USB connectors, audio jacks, etc., and the profile will match your panel. You need to generate the artwork in something like Adobe Illustrator, or the like, and there are many services that will cut/engrave for you. For example, Rex at WSC did it for me. As suggested, choose a readable font like Helvetica bold for clarity. You can print to paper to check alignment, etc.

Have fun, and be prepared to be impressed.

Matt Herron

Eh....to each his own...not my cup of tea...I think directly lettered looks way more professional. In production of panels (for all kinds of stuff, like test equipment etc)...they use silk screen...printed directly onto the surface

http://www.aircraftspecialty.com/instpanels.html

Here are a couple examples of silk screened lettering...most professional IMHO. These guys also do laser etch, right into the panel..I don't care fo rhte etch look...but he silk screen is 100% top notch!


Cookie

On Saturday, January 11, 2020 at 9:58:47 PM UTC-5, Matt Herron Jr. wrote:
These are all great ideas, but if you want the most professional, readable, permanent, and flexible solution, use laser engraving of special plastic laminate sold by Johnson Plastics and others. The laser can cut a profile for the label(s), cut holes for connectors to mount through, and label the connectors. The material has a self adhesive backing so you can peal and stick to the panel.

I use LaserMax Rowmark White/Black 2 ply 1/16" thick with excellent results. You can see a picture of my panel he https://www.dropbox.com/s/q6355wzj96...label.jpg?dl=0 A single placard takes care of all the items on the right side of the panel. I plan to do the required placards as well using this method.

Ideally a single label will handle multiple fuses/breakers, USB connectors, audio jacks, etc., and the profile will match your panel. You need to generate the artwork in something like Adobe Illustrator, or the like, and there are many services that will cut/engrave for you. For example, Rex at WSC did it for me. As suggested, choose a readable font like Helvetica bold for clarity. You can print to paper to check alignment, etc.

Have fun, and be prepared to be impressed.

Matt Herron

On Thursday, January 9, 2020 at 9:26:27 PM UTC-5, wrote:
I'm looking for ideas on how to make professional looking placards/labels for a instrument panel rebuild I'm doing. I need to make tiny labels for fuses, and switches and I hate, hate, hate the look of the continuous strip label maker "sticker" stuck to the panel. It looks tacky, but they never seem to stay stuck. Know what I mean?
I think a stencil might be too small, has any one ever used a pressure transfer and clear top coat? What else have you tried?

Signed,
Working till spring

I'm lucky enough to have my own engraver.

It was green, now grey, this year!

https://imgur.com/9nkz9yH

Nice work! I've never seen bank angle reference marks like that on the panel before.

DT

On Friday, January 17, 2020 at 11:41:58 PM UTC-5, wrote:
Nice work! I've never seen bank angle reference marks like that on the panel before.

DT

Thanks for the nice comment...

I tend to overbank. A 60-degree bank angle feels like 45 degrees to me, so this keeps me in check...

Notice no screws on the instruments. More engraving (cutting) behind the scenes.

Gary

Spiffy!

On 1/17/2020 7:52 PM, Gary Wayland wrote:
On Thursday, January 9, 2020 at 9:26:27 PM UTC-5, wrote:
I'm looking for ideas on how to make professional looking placards/labels for a instrument panel rebuild I'm doing. I need to make tiny labels for fuses, and switches and I hate, hate, hate the look of the continuous strip label maker "sticker" stuck to the panel. It looks tacky, but they never seem to stay stuck. Know what I mean?
I think a stencil might be too small, has any one ever used a pressure transfer and clear top coat? What else have you tried?

Signed,
Working till spring
I'm lucky enough to have my own engraver.

It was green, now grey, this year!

https://imgur.com/9nkz9yH

--
Dan, 5J