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"Richard Kaplan" writes:
3. I am convinced that the quality of the data is well worth it in a GA cockpit, though I am concerned about the practicality of the various wires and power connections in the cockpit. I think what I will do for myself is to use the laptop-based version of the WxWorx system, buy a couple of A/C inverters at Wamart with rechargable batteries, and try to put together my own "weather datalink briefcase" which will contain my laptop computer, A/C inverters, XMRadio receiver, and assorted wires; this should then work in the airplane or the car (for learning purposes as I drive through thunderstorms) or anywhere else... the ultimate "nerd bag" for a weaher-addicted pilot. If anyone else does something like this, shared details would be helpful. Errr.. what exactly are you trying to run from AC? My point being, if you have a laptop to run, you want a straight DC-DC adapter to power it. Radios Hack sells same, (All I see now is #273-1867, but there are others I think) as do various laptop speciality houses. They typically come with a mating plug for your laptop that not-so-incidently programs the output voltage. With such, everything should run off the aircraft. You could add a 2-4 AhH gelcell for independence, but that will build your arm muscles.. -- A host is a host from coast to & no one will talk to a host that's close........[v].(301) 56-LINUX Unless the host (that isn't close).........................pob 1433 is busy, hung or dead....................................20915-1433 |
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![]() "David Lesher" wrote in message ... Errr.. what exactly are you trying to run from AC? Yes, you are correct... that would be better.. I do not have a cigarette lighter adapter for my laptop but it would certainly be easier to buy that then to deal with an A/C inverter.. the A/C inverter was suggsed by the WeatherWorx engineer but as I thought about it you are correc it makes do sense to go from D/C to A/C and then D/C with all the complexity involved. -- Richard Kaplan, CFII www.flyimc.com |
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I'm not sure I understand the discussion on DC voltage converters. I
currently have XM radio in my 28v plane, but the radio runs on 6 volts, so I use an inverter to connect to the AC plug. Is it possible to get a 28v cigarette lighter adaptor to cut the voltage to 6 volts directly? It would be nice to eliminate the inverter. The XM radio works great in the plane- CD quality stereo sound and over 100 channels with no drop outs in reception. It connected directly to my stereo input. Regarding weather, I'm waiting for Garmin to come up with an effective interface with their 430/530, which is what they plan for the 1000. It'll make the GDL 49 look like something from the stone age. The iPAQ/PC/GPS combinations take a lot of wires and connections, as seen at OSH. Even the Garmin reps admit that the GDL 49 left a lot to be desired. How about satellite radio and real time weather all displayed on a Garmin 430/530 (the antennas are the same)? |
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![]() "Viperdoc" wrote in message ... I'm not sure I understand the discussion on DC voltage converters. I currently have XM radio in my 28v plane, but the radio runs on 6 volts, so I use an inverter to connect to the AC plug. Is it possible to get a 28v cigarette lighter adaptor to cut the voltage to 6 volts directly? It would be nice to eliminate the inverter. I'm not sure you will find one on the market. If you wanted to build it yourself, you need to know the current flow in milliamperes (or amps) used by the radio. That may be written on the ID plate or in the unit's specs. For illustration, let's presume it is 150 milliamps. The supply voltage is 28 (actually closer to 32 without a load) so you need to drop 22 volts in a resistor. You can calculate the required resistance by dividing the voltage to drop (22) by the current flow (0.150) = 146.67 ohms. Round it up to 150. Since it is going to dissipate energy in the form of heat, you need to know the wattage or the product of current and voltage = 3.3 Watts. To be on the safe side, you need to at least double that to 6.6 and round up to 10W. The next safety feature would be an in-line fuse, but that's optional since you can yank the connector out of the lighter socket. Cut one of the pair of wires coming out of the connector and put the 10W, 150 ohm resistor in series. The typical night-light for the kid's bedroom is 7.5W. Stick your finger up against one that has been on for a couple of minutes and imagine about half that heat. That's what the resistor is going to heat up to. The point is, keep your fingers off of it when it's plugged in. Oh, that reminds me, don't wrap it up in foam -- the heat needs to dissipate. |
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