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You might check into a "wicking sealant". I know permatex makes one, but I
don't know the part number. Do it at night since it is not aircraft stuff. It has worked for me on a variety of leaks on transmissions and transaxles. Of course you need to remove the RTV and clean the area with brake cleaner first. Mike MU-2 "mindenpilot" wrote in message ... I have about 1100 SMOH on my IO-360 (2000 TBO). Compressions are all 70 or above. There was only a tiny bit of metal at the last oil change. That was shortyly after I bought it, at which time I also put a spin-on filter adapter on. The engine has been running great, especially lately. However, my mechanic was fighting a nagging problem. It seems the seal where the crank case halves come together leaks. Mine is/was leaking right on top of the engine. It was very disturbing for a while, but my mechanic managed to stop the leak with some silicone. I understand that taking it apart would be very expensive, so I've been pricing an overhaul. Looks like about $17K for an overhaul. I'd really like to milk it out closer to TBO. I'm wondering if I should continue to ignore the problem, as long as no oil is leaking, and the engine is running fine. It's been about three months since any problems, but I don't know how long it will hold. I've been flying a couple hours per week with not even a drip. Your suggestions would be appreciated. Adam N7966L Beech Super III |
#2
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![]() "Mike Rapoport" wrote in message nk.net... You might check into a "wicking sealant". I know permatex makes one, but I don't know the part number. Do it at night since it is not aircraft stuff. It has worked for me on a variety of leaks on transmissions and transaxles. Of course you need to remove the RTV and clean the area with brake cleaner first. Mike MU-2 Good info. I'll keep this in mind if the leak comes back. Thanks Mike. Adam N7966L Beech Super III |
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On Sun, 06 Feb 2005 02:01:14 GMT, "Mike Rapoport"
wrote: You might check into a "wicking sealant". I know permatex makes one, but I don't know the part number. Do it at night since it is not aircraft stuff. It has worked for me on a variety of leaks on transmissions and transaxles. Of course you need to remove the RTV and clean the area with brake cleaner first. There is a letter circulating around from TCM concerning case seam leaks. The gist of the process is remove any leaking case bolts in the area, clean thoroughly with MEK (brake cleaner would work), and apply cyanoacrylate adhesive. That's right, super glue. You hook a shop vac up to the breather, turn it on, clean things up and let dry thoroughly. Turn the vac back on, apply the glue to the seam and on the inside of the bolt holes. Let it dry, put it all back together, torque the bolts and fly the crap out of it. Had really good luck using the extremely thin hobby stuff, then painting the thicker stuff down the seam (sparingly) after the thin stuff is dry. Is an "approved" repair for TCM products, and I have used it with good results. You hit the nail on the head, it is a "wicking" leak in most cases, and a wicking sealant will stop it... Regards; TC |
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![]() wrote in message ... On Sun, 06 Feb 2005 02:01:14 GMT, "Mike Rapoport" wrote: You might check into a "wicking sealant". I know permatex makes one, but I don't know the part number. Do it at night since it is not aircraft stuff. It has worked for me on a variety of leaks on transmissions and transaxles. Of course you need to remove the RTV and clean the area with brake cleaner first. There is a letter circulating around from TCM concerning case seam leaks. The gist of the process is remove any leaking case bolts in the area, clean thoroughly with MEK (brake cleaner would work), and apply cyanoacrylate adhesive. That's right, super glue. You hook a shop vac up to the breather, turn it on, clean things up and let dry thoroughly. Turn the vac back on, apply the glue to the seam and on the inside of the bolt holes. Let it dry, put it all back together, torque the bolts and fly the crap out of it. Had really good luck using the extremely thin hobby stuff, then painting the thicker stuff down the seam (sparingly) after the thin stuff is dry. Is an "approved" repair for TCM products, and I have used it with good results. You hit the nail on the head, it is a "wicking" leak in most cases, and a wicking sealant will stop it... Regards; TC TC, If you could forward me a copy of that letter I would appreciate it. Nobody here has heard of it. Thanks, Allen |
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On Tue, 08 Feb 2005 22:24:37 GMT, "Allen"
wrote: snip TC, If you could forward me a copy of that letter I would appreciate it. Nobody here has heard of it. Thanks, Allen The last copy I obtained is somewhere at my previous employer's shop. I got it by calling TCM tech support and asking them for it specifically. It is an old advisory letter addressing crankcase backbone leaks, does not have a SB # or anything like that. TC |
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#7
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#8
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![]() "Mike Rapoport" wrote in message nk.net... You might check into a "wicking sealant". I know permatex makes one, but I don't know the part number. Do it at night since it is not aircraft stuff. It has worked for me on a variety of leaks on transmissions and transaxles. Of course you need to remove the RTV and clean the area with brake cleaner first. Mike MU-2 Another issue is that RTV will degrade if exposed to too much fuel or oil. I'd remove it, clean the area, and re-seal with something like Proseal, which is a two part sealant used for fuel tanks. The stuff is incredible... KB |
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