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As to your snap roll observation... in level schnapps do you start with
full power? It takes more pull and g's to snap with full power, as you would in a climbing line, than it does with reduced power. I know myself that I keep to 120 mph or less in a level or diving snap, I, too, try to keep level or down snaps at 120 or below, and whatever power it takes, depending on what came before.If the snap follows a half loop up or some other speed-losing stunt, I just leave the throttle open till I get my 120. Unless, of course, it's a combination with, say, a half loop up with half snap attached. If following, say, a push 5/8 loop as in this year's Advanced known, I reduce power on the 45 down to make the line before the snap a bit longer, so I can lengthen the line after for more speed out. There's a difference between constant speed and fixed pitch prop, too. With the CS prop, the gyro is always at full speed, whereas with a fixed pitch, it varies. You're right about the barrel roll and the altitude loss if trying to maintain approx. 1g. I think that the most customer-friendly roll starts out as a barrel roll, but with an increased roll rate at the highest point of the arc, and going to about 1/2 g when inverted. Or even 1/4 g, just enough positive so they're not hanging on the belts. I've been told that a "military" barrel roll, as taught to guys like my dad who took PT in Stearmans, by definition has a 90 degree heading change at, shall we call it, the apogee. Finishes on original heading, of course. I taught myself these...they are very fun, but can't stay below about 3 g's in the Pitts. Then I went out and demo'd them to a friend in his stock 220 Stearman. Those were REALLY fun! A plane that actually uses wings flys so much differently... Doug |
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