New Engine on New homebuilt

"David Koehler" wrote in message
...
Hi All,
I'm not there yet, but, I have a new Lycoming O-360 and in the process of
building a homebuilt kit. Lycoming says to break in the engine at full
power
and gives procedures on how to do it. The kit needs slow taxi, then fast
taxi, glazing of the brakes. After take off there are procedures to do at
lower power.... I know I'm not the FIRST in this dilemma, so what takes a
preference? If you wait to do the full power to seat the rings, is that
ok?
Thanks for any response, I'm at a loss,
david



Tie the aircraft to a pole and...

If the engine is from Lycoming, it should have had a few hours put on
it on the test stand and you should have gotten a report on the test
run with the engine.

Gig 601XL Builder wrote:
"David Koehler" wrote in message
...

Hi All,
I'm not there yet, but, I have a new Lycoming O-360 and in the process of
building a homebuilt kit. Lycoming says to break in the engine at full
power
and gives procedures on how to do it. The kit needs slow taxi, then fast
taxi, glazing of the brakes. After take off there are procedures to do at
lower power.... I know I'm not the FIRST in this dilemma, so what takes a
preference? If you wait to do the full power to seat the rings, is that
ok?
Thanks for any response, I'm at a loss,
david




Tie the aircraft to a pole and...


I know just the Pole. Call Chuck S.

Dan, U.S. Air Force, retired

"Dan, U.S. Air Force, retired" wrote

I know just the Pole. Call Chuck S.

Not a bad idea! It would take some doing to move *that* pole. g
--
Jim in NC

"Gig 601XL Builder" wr.giacona@coxDOTnet wrote

Tie the aircraft to a pole and...

But keep a good eye on temps. Without flying, the cooling air is not as
"good" at keeping you new baby from getting hot under the collar. Or so I
have heard. g
--
Jim in NC

"Gig 601XL Builder" wr.giacona@coxDOTnet wrote

Tie the aircraft to a pole and...

Not a good idea for a new or rebuilt engine. It needs air flowing
to keep cylinders cool. Happened to a local guy who thought it was neat
to taxi all over the area in his new airplane, overheated cylinders and
it burned a lot of oil from the very beginnoing. He had to rebuild the
cylinders.

Jerry

Jerry Springer wrote:
"Gig 601XL Builder" wr.giacona@coxDOTnet wrote

Tie the aircraft to a pole and...

Not a good idea for a new or rebuilt engine. It needs air flowing
to keep cylinders cool. Happened to a local guy who thought it was neat
to taxi all over the area in his new airplane, overheated cylinders and
it burned a lot of oil from the very beginnoing. He had to rebuild the
cylinders.


I can see that happening at idle speeds but if you run the
engine up to full throttle won't the prop wash provide enough
cooling, depending on the cowling of course.

--

FF

wrote:
Jerry Springer wrote:

"Gig 601XL Builder" wr.giacona@coxDOTnet wrote


Tie the aircraft to a pole and...

Not a good idea for a new or rebuilt engine. It needs air flowing
to keep cylinders cool. Happened to a local guy who thought it was neat
to taxi all over the area in his new airplane, overheated cylinders and
it burned a lot of oil from the very beginnoing. He had to rebuild the
cylinders.



I can see that happening at idle speeds but if you run the
engine up to full throttle won't the prop wash provide enough
cooling, depending on the cowling of course.

Actually it will not, a prop turing at full speed with airplane not
moving is not very efficient at all. It also take forward speed to
create enough airflow for cooling. A lot of homebuilts have very tight
cowlings and need a fair amount of pressure to force the air down and
around the cylinders

Jerry

On Fri, 12 Aug 2005 20:45:36 -0700, Jerry Springer
wrote:

wrote:
Jerry Springer wrote:

"Gig 601XL Builder" wr.giacona@coxDOTnet wrote


Tie the aircraft to a pole and...

Not a good idea for a new or rebuilt engine. It needs air flowing
to keep cylinders cool. Happened to a local guy who thought it was neat
to taxi all over the area in his new airplane, overheated cylinders and
it burned a lot of oil from the very beginnoing. He had to rebuild the
cylinders.



I can see that happening at idle speeds but if you run the
engine up to full throttle won't the prop wash provide enough
cooling, depending on the cowling of course.

Actually it will not, a prop turing at full speed with airplane not
moving is not very efficient at all. It also take forward speed to
create enough airflow for cooling. A lot of homebuilts have very tight
cowlings and need a fair amount of pressure to force the air down and
around the cylinders

It depends on how well the engine is cooled. Many "Spam Cans" won't
heat up enough to get the contaminants out of the oil, but new, or
rebuilt engines are a different animal.

OTOH isn't there a requirement for one hour on the engine before it
takes to the air, or is that before the FAA inspection and sign off?

Roger Halstead (K8RI & ARRL life member)
(N833R, S# CD-2 Worlds oldest Debonair)
www.rogerhalstead.com
Jerry

"Roger" wrote in message
...
snip

OTOH isn't there a requirement for one hour on the engine before it
takes to the air, or is that before the FAA inspection and sign off?

Roger Halstead (K8RI & ARRL life member)
(N833R, S# CD-2 Worlds oldest Debonair)
www.rogerhalstead.com

I've heard of the 1 hour engine run requirement, but I've never found it in
any official (FAA) or reputable (EAA) source. I am aware of some DAR's who
require it.

My DAR didn't mention it.

Personally, if I had access to a test stand with proper cooling set-up, I'd
run a new engine at least an hour. However, installed on an aircraft, and
without a test club, lengthy engine runs on the ground are not recommended
per Lycoming's new or remanufactured engine break-in procedure.

KB