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#1
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"Dave Stadt" writes:
wrote in message oups.com... Since the 150 was never intended to be a conventional gear airplane, the rudder is a little small. And the TT looks really goofey with those short gear legs and short prop. An early 150 converted to a tail dragger with 140 gear legs looks much better and gets the prop up in the air where it belongs.. I hear that straight-tail 150's do better as taildraggers than swept-tail ones. Is that true? Ari. -- Elections only count as free and trials as fair if you can lose money betting on the outcome. |
#2
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The TT's gear is the original gear moved forward, so that its
deck angle on the ground is shallow; that raises takeoff and landing speeds since you can't get the nose higher. Besides, I've flown several aircraft that use O-200s and I still can't figure out where all that power goes in a 150. The other airplanes perform much better. Old straight-tail, no-back-window 150s were faster, lighter and better overall performers; I think the sharp profile change needed when they stuck that window in must have hurt the airplane. Find a real taildragger. Dan |
#3
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#4
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Maule Driver writes:
Try a Maule - you can drag tail and carry stuff too! Quite a bit more expensive, aren't they? Plus you have to deal with fabric... It would be nice to have the gross weight, but I don't really need it in 85% of my flying. Ari. -- Elections only count as free and trials as fair if you can lose money betting on the outcome. |
#5
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K. Ari Krupnikov wrote:
Quite a bit more expensive, aren't they? The cheapest flyable ones will definitely cost you more than a TT 150. The fabric is not a problem if the paint was properly chosen and applied, but you never know if that's the case. George Patterson Give a person a fish and you feed him for a day; teach a person to use the Internet and he won't bother you for weeks. |
#6
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George Patterson writes:
K. Ari Krupnikov wrote: Quite a bit more expensive, aren't they? The cheapest flyable ones will definitely cost you more than a TT 150. The fabric is not a problem if the paint was properly chosen and applied, but you never know if that's the case. I'm buying my first airplane, so bear with me. Where I live, hangar space is tough to come by (SF Bay area). I was under the impression that it's not a good idea to keep a fabric airplane outside, so I figured an all-metal TT would work better. Also, I've never flown a Maule. Is anybody in NorCal willing to give me a ride if I pay for gas? Ari. George Patterson Give a person a fish and you feed him for a day; teach a person to ....fish and you'll be hearing about non-renewable resources for the rest of your life. -- Elections only count as free and trials as fair if you can lose money betting on the outcome. |
#7
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K. Ari Krupnikov wrote:
I was under the impression that it's not a good idea to keep a fabric airplane outside, so I figured an all-metal TT would work better. Aircraft used to be covered with linen or cotton. That would be painted with "dope" to keep air from passing through the weave. Both of these fabrics will last a long time if hangared and rot if left outside. The rot time varies depending on ambient weather conditions. I personally know of one J-3 Piper still flying with an immaculate 30-year-old cotton skin. Been hangared since the cover job. Modern fabric-covered aircraft use synthetics such as Ceconite (AKA Polyfiber) or Razorback. Ceconite will deteriorate when exposed to UV rays, so the aircraft are carefully painted to prevent this. Two methods work. With both, you paint the aircraft with primer coats of nitrate and butyrate dope. You can either follow this with color coats of butyrate dope, or use color coats of polyurethane. An aircraft covered in Ceconite and painted with either of these methods can be kept outside. If the color coats are butyrate dope, the paint must be "rejuvenated" about every 10 years, but this supposedly is true even if the aircraft is hangared. The problem with Maules is that, prior to 1996, the factory used enamel as the color coat over a dope primer. Parts of the aircraft are fiberglass, some parts are metal, and some are fabric. Dope doesn't last on bare metal and cracks on fiberglass. Enamel shrinks and produces cracks and other problems in the fabric. Most have been recovered, but who knows (I know of one '95 model that hasn't been). The only real cure is to strip and recover and repaint the aircraft, though some people have had success sanding the finish coat off and repainting. Anyway. If you get a fabric aircraft that has a Ceconite or Polyfiber skin with polyurethane applied over a dope base coat, you shouldn't have problems with the fabric. Corrosion is a different issue, but metal aircraft also have problems with this. George Patterson Give a person a fish and you feed him for a day; teach a person to use the Internet and he won't bother you for weeks. |
#8
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George Patterson wrote:
K. Ari Krupnikov wrote: Quite a bit more expensive, aren't they? The cheapest flyable ones will definitely cost you more than a TT 150. The fabric is not a problem if the paint was properly chosen and applied, but you never know if that's the case. If the Aviation Consumer reviews of Maule planes are any indication, odss are good that it wasn't painted properly. That has been consistently cited as a problem with Maules. |
#9
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xyzzy wrote:
If the Aviation Consumer reviews of Maule planes are any indication, odss are good that it wasn't painted properly. That has been consistently cited as a problem with Maules. Any Maule older than 1996 will not have been painted properly and any Maule made in 1997 or '98 may not have been (Belford had odd ideas on the matter and the factory used up old stocks of paint after he died in '95). The only question is whether an older Maule has been repainted and, if so, how good that job was. George Patterson Give a person a fish and you feed him for a day; teach a person to use the Internet and he won't bother you for weeks. |
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