FLAPS

You might want to look further at the brake system. On my LS-3a, which
has a similar arrangement to yours, I can stand it on the nose with the
brakes. And I have never had a particularly difficult time steering
while braking.



Larry





" wrote in message
oups.com:

Casey is correct - a lot depends on the glider. My flapped LS6
approaches and lands at very similar speeds to Casey's LS8 (no big
surprise there). On the other hand, the Pik-20B that I occasionally
fly approaches a LOT slower and can be stopped a lot sooner than my
LS6. Lower wing loading has something to do with it, but the nature of
90 degree flaps means a slower approach is usually possible.

I like them both - and there have been times I wished my -6 had 90
degree flaps on approach! (or at least a real brake...).

LS brakes, on the other hand...Hideous small Tost drum "emergency"
brake actuated via the rudder pedals. That design task must have been
fobbed off on the newest apprentice at the LS factory. Not only does
it not provide any reassuring retardation (especially landing with no
wind - or worse still, full of water), but it's almost impossible to
steer and brake at the same time.

Kirk
66

Wish that I could figure out why this is so.....I've pulled many brakes on multiple gliders and cleaned, sanded, scuffed and lubed any parts that needed to be and have never found any of them to be worth more than a barely noticable effect in deceleration. There was a mod where the brake was split in order to be more effective several years ago that some folks tried but in the end most said that they didn't think it was worth it. No doubt that the hydraulic brakes will put them all on their noses but it's a rare drum that will.

Casey Lenox
KC
Phoenix

There's an outfit in California called "Vintage Brakes" that will overhaul Tost drum brakes with excellent, long lasting results. They did the drum brake on a Mile High Gliding 2-33 and it's equal to the hydraulic disk brake on the other 2-33.

Bill Daniels
"Kilo Charlie" wrote in message news:hcaPe.124896$E95.65391@fed1read01...
Wish that I could figure out why this is so.....I've pulled many brakes on multiple gliders and cleaned, sanded, scuffed and lubed any parts that needed to be and have never found any of them to be worth more than a barely noticable effect in deceleration. There was a mod where the brake was split in order to be more effective several years ago that some folks tried but in the end most said that they didn't think it was worth it. No doubt that the hydraulic brakes will put them all on their noses but it's a rare drum that will.

Casey Lenox
KC
Phoenix

"Bill Daniels" wrote in message ...
There's an outfit in California called "Vintage Brakes" that will overhaul Tost drum brakes with excellent, long lasting results. They did the drum brake on a Mile High Gliding 2-33 and it's equal to the hydraulic disk brake on the other 2-33.

Bill Daniels


Ahhhh....maybe my winter project! Got any more contact info?

Thanks,
Casey

Then you must have double-jointed ankles!

Seriously, what it needs is a bigger wheel, a hydraulic disc brake, and
activation by a squeeze lever on the stick.

Which is sorta what DG is offering on new LS8s and 10, isn't it? Except
they may use the spoiler lever for the brakes - due to trim lever on
stick.

I'm happy for you that your LS3 has a working brake - it's probably
been worked on, which I agree I should do to mine soon. Forturnately,
I now fly off a grass field and stopping is not a great problem.

But it's nice that the glider manufacturers have over the years come to
realize that gliders are often flown from paved strips - and now
provide decent brakes.

Kirk
66

I also concur that I have had more trouble with brakes - particularly
the ill-conceived heel brakes that are clearly the work of Satan -
and a CG hook during cross-wind aerotows than I ever had with flaps.
(I do love my stick-mounted hydraulic disk brake!)

My first glider was a flapped Jantar-1 and I have a bunch of time in an
ASW-20. Flaps are a little more complicated, but give you more landing
control and more performance for your money.

Unless you're a complete doofus, you should manage the transition to
flaps without any problems. Just read the manual, listen to your
instructor and practice.

Your big kahunas sound like a bunch of old women!

Mike

Discus 2 WA