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#1
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I found some small wire brushes about 3/8 inch dia that could
be chucked into an electric drill and slowly rotated in the threaded hole to clean the crud out of the threads. I pump compressed air into the cylinder through one plug hole while picking the crud out of the threads of the other. This makes sure the stuff doesn't lay in the cylinder and get into places it shouldn't. Got to wear goggles while doing it, and a respirator is a good idea, since the dust has lead in it. Chunks of the stuff have caused problems when they break off in flight: they can foul a plug or get under a valve and reduce power. Not a good thing if you're just lifting off. Dan |
#2
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Good idea using a gun cleaning brush & an air blast.
Which also brings to mind a thought that John Thorp expressed many years ago. If compression is going to be measured, remove the bottom plug first so crud doesn't fall on an open exhaust valve sealing surface. Then rotate the engine to TDC before removing the top plug. |
#3
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On 25 Sep 2005 19:26:01 -0700, "nrp" wrote:
snip One minor additional thing - Occasionally also clean the sparkplug helicoil threads in the cylinder. Somewhere (a surplus tore as I recall) I found some small wire brushes about 3/8 inch dia that could be chucked into an electric drill and slowly rotated in the threaded hole to clean the crud out of the threads. Champion useta sell a thread chaser for this purpose. Looked a lot like a spark plug, had cut-outs in the threads to catch the crud. SOP was stick a finger full of grease into the cut-outs to help it "stick". TC |
#4
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#5
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On Tue, 27 Sep 2005 02:35:01 GMT, Orval Fairbairn
wrote: I don't see why you couldn't make a chaser out of an old plug, using a Moto Tool to cut the tapping slots. umm errr-that's what I used before one of my employers bought me the jen-yoo-wine article. Actually, I used a new plug that I had dropped and subsequently busted the guts out of so somebody else wouldn't try to stick in in an airplane. A very important part of Jay's plug-cleaning story was solvent-cleaning after grit-blasting. Since OSHA didn't spend a lot of time in the hangar, I allegedly used a highly toxic low-flashpoint solvent drained out of a nearby sump drain into a cut-down oil bottle. Had a customer ask me why I was wasting my time (and his money) rinsing the plugs. Showed him the grit in the bottom of the bottle and asked him if he really wanted it inside his engine... TC |
#6
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But for the love of Orville, paint the top of the sonofoabitch red or
somebody will try and use it in an airplane as a spark plug. GUARANTEED. I've got two of them around here. One with a narrow slot for fairly clean helicoils and one with a Tijuana whore's slot for absolutely filthy helicoils. Toecutter's comment about grease in the slot is right on. However, wipe the helicoil out after you do the cleaning or the grease will stick the next plug tighter than Tilly's titty. I switched from the graphite thread lube to the copper loaded stuff and have found an absolute order of magnitude of ease of removal. Any other comments? Jim "Orval Fairbairn" wrote in message news ![]() In article , wrote: On 25 Sep 2005 19:26:01 -0700, "nrp" wrote: Champion useta sell a thread chaser for this purpose. Looked a lot like a spark plug, had cut-outs in the threads to catch the crud. SOP was stick a finger full of grease into the cut-outs to help it "stick". TC I don't see why you couldn't make a chaser out of an old plug, using a Moto Tool to cut the tapping slots. |
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