![]() |
If this is your first visit, be sure to check out the FAQ by clicking the link above. You may have to register before you can post: click the register link above to proceed. To start viewing messages, select the forum that you want to visit from the selection below. |
|
|
|
Thread Tools | Display Modes |
|
#1
|
|||
|
|||
![]()
Thanks for the suggestions to my question of how to join aluminum
sheets [without rivets] for making a dirigible. The advice that an aluminum dirigible won't fly is not borne out by reality. Do a websearch for Schwarz airship. It was aluminum and flew in 1897. That's right, eighteen ninety seven. Then there was the Navy ZMC airship which flew for ten years back in the forties. One "advantage" of an aluminum skin is that the skin holds the lift gas, saving the weight of internal separate bags. Also, aluminum, being stiff, can add some monocoque strength to the frame. I'm thinking of employing some corrugated alum. for added stiffness and reduced drumming. It doesn't look nice but might work well. Any ideas? [negatives not needed ;-] |
#2
|
|||
|
|||
![]()
dirigible designer wrote:
Thanks for the suggestions to my question of how to join aluminum sheets [without rivets] for making a dirigible. The advice that an aluminum dirigible won't fly is not borne out by reality. Do a websearch for Schwarz airship. It was aluminum and flew in 1897. That's right, eighteen ninety seven. Then there was the Navy ZMC airship which flew for ten years back in the forties. One "advantage" of an aluminum skin is that the skin holds the lift gas, saving the weight of internal separate bags. Also, aluminum, being stiff, can add some monocoque strength to the frame. I'm thinking of employing some corrugated alum. for added stiffness and reduced drumming. It doesn't look nice but might work well. Any ideas? [negatives not needed ;-] He didn't say it wouldn't work. Just that at this scale it would ne too heavy to fly. double - square - cube relationship... Richard |
#3
|
|||
|
|||
![]()
"dirigible designer" wrote:
Thanks for the suggestions to my question of how to join aluminum sheets [without rivets] for making a dirigible. Hi "dd" (Allen?). I am familiar with the history of aluminum airships. One remote possibility it to look into/experiment with aluminum soldering. Once upon a time I did not think it was possible to solder aluminum, but if you do a Google search on the subject you should find some information on the subject. It's not impossible, merely difficult. As to glues, I would suggest going to McMaster-Carr's website (http://www.mcmaster.com/) and browse some of the categories under "Fastening and Sealing". Perhaps a mix of some blind or solid rivets (to provide structural strength) combined with a construction adhesive (to provide a seal and some shear strength) might work? Anyway, I'd suggest you try buying some likely candidates and try some small-scale experiments. Also, I believe there is a patent for the rivet machine that was invented in order to build the ZMC airships, but I don't have the patent number handy. But check patent 1,706,830. It is the main patent related to the ZMC airship design. It should also hopefully provide a starting point for finding the other patents related to the work done on the ZMC airships. I'm thinking of employing some corrugated alum. for added stiffness and reduced drumming. It doesn't look nice but might work well. Well, the ZMC-2 used something like 0.006 inch thick aluminum. You can now get hard-temper aluminum foil from MacMaster-Carr that is 0.002 inch thick. But wider rolls (less joining needed for the same surface area) are available down to 0.003 inch thick. Soft-temper of course can be had down to 0.0007 inch thick. About the temper of house-hold aluminum foil, though. Corrugated is going to drive your raw material cost up (unless you build equipment to corrugate the raw sheets or foil yourself). And I would expect it would impose a large drag penalty, too. Lastly, it is really hard to build working reduced-scale prototype airship designs. They don't scale down well. Good luck! |
#4
|
|||
|
|||
![]()
Jim Logajan wrote:
"dirigible designer" wrote: Thanks for the suggestions to my question of how to join aluminum sheets [without rivets] for making a dirigible. Hi "dd" (Allen?). I am familiar with the history of aluminum airships. One remote possibility it to look into/experiment with aluminum soldering. Once upon a time I did not think it was possible to solder aluminum, but if you do a Google search on the subject you should find some information on the subject. It's not impossible, merely difficult. What about welding it? |
#5
|
|||
|
|||
![]()
"Gig 601XL Builder" wrDOTgiaconaATsuddenlink.net wrote:
Jim Logajan wrote: "dirigible designer" wrote: Thanks for the suggestions to my question of how to join aluminum sheets [without rivets] for making a dirigible. Hi "dd" (Allen?). I am familiar with the history of aluminum airships. One remote possibility it to look into/experiment with aluminum soldering. Once upon a time I did not think it was possible to solder aluminum, but if you do a Google search on the subject you should find some information on the subject. It's not impossible, merely difficult. What about welding it? Might work with joining sheets to ribs, but sheets-to-sheets? Don't know either way, actually. :-) I never got around to experimenting with it, but I had considered trying to use a flux of some kind (something to deal with the formation or thickening of the oxide layer) applied between two overlapping sheets and then applying heat using a high-temperature heat gun. Some of the heavy-duty heat guns claim air temperatures near the melting point of some alloys of aluminum. |
#6
|
|||
|
|||
![]()
Jim Logajan wrote:
"Gig 601XL Builder" wrDOTgiaconaATsuddenlink.net wrote: Jim Logajan wrote: "dirigible designer" wrote: Thanks for the suggestions to my question of how to join aluminum sheets [without rivets] for making a dirigible. Hi "dd" (Allen?). I am familiar with the history of aluminum airships. One remote possibility it to look into/experiment with aluminum soldering. Once upon a time I did not think it was possible to solder aluminum, but if you do a Google search on the subject you should find some information on the subject. It's not impossible, merely difficult. What about welding it? Might work with joining sheets to ribs, but sheets-to-sheets? Don't know either way, actually. :-) I never got around to experimenting with it, but I had considered trying to use a flux of some kind (something to deal with the formation or thickening of the oxide layer) applied between two overlapping sheets and then applying heat using a high-temperature heat gun. Some of the heavy-duty heat guns claim air temperatures near the melting point of some alloys of aluminum. I just tried my hand at welding aluminum this past weekend. I'm putting a fuel tank together. Unless you have some major jigs, the sheets will warp all to hell before you get halfway down a joint. |
#8
|
|||
|
|||
![]() "Stuart & Kathryn Fields" wrote in message .. . I welded 4 aluminum gas tanks ( I busted the first two in an incident) and one oil tank for my Baby Belle. I don't remember having much warpage, but I also recall someone telling me to tack the things in a lot of places before finishing the seam welds. The things pressure tested to 14' of water the first time with no pin holes. Now if that doesn't prove luck is better than skill I'll eat a welding rod. I also welded some aluminum beer cans together, but they wouldn't hold mashed potatoes after I finished with them let alone a liquid. -- I have welded a lot of aluminum, including successful welding of beer cans. And I second all of Stewart’s advice. When welding .030 and up, you will want to tack weld even as close as every two to three inches before beginning your finishing welds. Skip welding helps as well, meaning weld between two tacks, skip between two tacks, and weld between the next. It will all help to avoid distortion. Also, clean, clean, clean. Scrape or buff everything with stainless steel rotary brushes, cleaned thoroughly in acetone or eqv. If you pick up any oil or grease anywhere, clean your scrapers and brushes and start all over. It even helps to handle everything with clean cotton gloves. You can leave enough oil from your bare hands to affect the quality of your welds, unless you keep your hands washed in acetone, which I certainly don't recommend. As for thinner than .030 or so, good luck without good fixtures. I have seen some soldering techniques advertised the might be very workable, but have never tried any of them. As for glue, I haven't tried many, but have had pretty good luck with 3M - 2216BA. I don't know how it compares to the others mentioned above, but it has worked well for me. On a seam of .010 with a half inch overlap, I personally think it might be workable, but haven't done it my self. And if you plan to glue, don't for a minute underestimate the value of cleaning, preparation and a good primer. When done correctly under aircraft conditions, actually mixing the epoxy and gluing your seam is only about 10% of the battle. Proper cleaning, priming and curing of the primer is actually more critical. Free advice, your results could easily vary. Max |
#9
|
|||
|
|||
![]()
Thanks for all the ideas for joining aluminum sheets. I was amazed at
all the different versions of 3M epoxy there are. Should be one to suit my needs. http://multimedia.mmm.com/mws/mediaw...Sum5COrrrr Q- I'll be back in touch after I gather some materials and put a few pieces together. high flight, Allen |
#10
|
|||
|
|||
![]()
dirigible designer wrote:
Thanks for all the ideas for joining aluminum sheets. I was amazed at all the different versions of 3M epoxy there are. Should be one to suit my needs. http://multimedia.mmm.com/mws/mediaw...Sum5COrrrr Q- I'll be back in touch after I gather some materials and put a few pieces together. high flight, Allen Bonded lap seams should be fine since the loads are certainly going to be extremely low. You should make some sample lap joints with different adhesives and pull test them. Grumman light singles are all bonded aluminum joints, including skin laps, and have been going strong for 40 years since the first Yankees were produced. Your biggest problem will be having even clamping pressure on the joints during gluing. Bonded metal joints are not super strong in tension; the strength is all in the shear plane. That means the parts will peel apart fairly easily and there should be a mechanical fastener at any corner of a skin. There was an AD to do this on the Grummans. John |
|
Thread Tools | |
Display Modes | |
|
|
![]() |
||||
Thread | Thread Starter | Forum | Replies | Last Post |
aluminum rib, aluminum spar, holes drilled but screws broken off | jls | Home Built | 13 | January 3rd 07 08:06 AM |
joining the traffic pattern quandary | [email protected] | Instrument Flight Rules | 77 | January 17th 05 05:07 PM |
Considerations for joining flying club | Marty Ross | Instrument Flight Rules | 20 | September 30th 04 05:55 AM |
Considerations for joining flying club | Marty Ross | General Aviation | 17 | September 16th 04 10:54 AM |
Joining the USAF | jshmoe | Military Aviation | 25 | November 13th 03 05:18 AM |