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On Mar 21, 11:29 am, Newps wrote:
I replaced a bladder a year ago. 42 gallon tank in the left wing. Bo bladders cost the same as Cessna bladders of similar gallons when you buy from the three main aftermarket sources like Eagle or Floats and Fuel Cells. No idea what Beech charges, probably horrendous. But nobody buys a bladder from Beech or Cessna. That would be stupid, they're buying them aftermarket, why pay the up charge? Labor for a Bo is less than on the 182 I had by several hours. First reason is because you are standing on the ground and not always going up and down the ladder. Second is all the snaps are easily reachable. Third all the connections are easily accessible, no dissasembling the headliner to get at the sender, etc. Fourth the tank is easily removable. How do you get a Cherokee tank out? Derivet? Remove a wing? "that would be stupid, why pay the up charge" Well, let's see. Based purely on personal experience, the life of an aftermarket tank is usually about half that of an OEM tank-primarily depends on how good of a job the aftermarket boys did in "engineering" the new tank. The other reason might be that there are aftermarket Bonanza tanks out there that will NOT fit in the applicable make and model of A/C. Really neat thing to find out after you have spent the time (and tied up a hangar bay) to send out a bladder for eval, find out it's junk (big surprise), purchase an aftermarket tank ("why should I pay the extra $$") and find out that either the tank sump drain nipple OR the main fuel feed nipple will line up and poke out through the little hole... A basic older Bo tank is a little easier than a 180-twice, BTW, I've allegedly done both. A King Air is a piece of cake, the size of each fuel bay/bladder is a lot smaller in relation to the size of the access panel. You still have to remove all the old tape and glue residue and re-tape. Aztecs suck rocks. Despite Jay's tale of woe, pulling a Cherokee wing tank is a matter of removing some 10-32 structural machine screws and sliding the whole thing out (in one piece) out of the wing. Repairs are just like any other "wet-wing" structure, but you have the piece of wing laying on the workbench, with ready access to the majority of the rivets. Getting the screws out can be a real bitch, but it doesn't involve any rivets, snaps or duct tape. The composite Cherokee tip tank is another story-I'd rather have a bladder any day of the week. BTW, why did you charge yourself labor for changing out a bladder? TC |
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Despite Jay's tale of woe, pulling a Cherokee wing tank is a matter of
removing some 10-32 structural machine screws and sliding the whole thing out (in one piece) out of the wing. Yeah, other than the last screw not catching a nutplate, it's really not bad. (If you like Popeye forearms, this is the job for you!) And it's NOTHING compared to working with a bladder tank, according to my A&P, a man with 40+ years wrenching. The composite Cherokee tip tank is another story-I'd rather have a bladder any day of the week. Thanks goodness I've not had to deal with those, other than cosmetically. I'll bet a leak is a real SOB to fix. -- Jay Honeck Iowa City, IA Pathfinder N56993 www.AlexisParkInn.com "Your Aviation Destination" |
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![]() I'd sure rather swap a bladder in a Bonanza than fix a leaking Mooney tank. Working with very bad chemicals thru a small hole is no fun at all. On the Bonanza, doing the snaps in the correct order helps. You can also snap them from the TOP of the bladder which is much easier than working through the fuel cap hole. Bill Hale Despite Jay's tale of woe, pulling a Cherokee wing tank is a matter of removing some 10-32 structural machine screws and sliding the whole thing out (in one piece) out of the wing. Repairs are just like any other "wet-wing" structure, but you have the piece of wing laying on the workbench, with ready access to the majority of the rivets. Getting the screws out can be a real bitch, but it doesn't involve any rivets, snaps or duct tape. The composite Cherokee tip tank is another story-I'd rather have a bladder any day of the week. BTW, why did you charge yourself labor for changing out a bladder? TC |
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On 23 Mar 2007 10:12:18 -0700, "
wrote: I'd sure rather swap a bladder in a Bonanza than fix a leaking Mooney tank. Working with very bad chemicals thru a small hole is no fun at all. On the Bonanza, doing the snaps in the correct order helps. You can also snap them from the TOP of the bladder which is much easier than working through the fuel cap hole. BTDT (Bonanza and Mooney). The chemicals aren't bad IMHO, it's the initial eval and clean-up and figuring out where to put the chemicals. Don't get the wrong impression, installing a new OEM bladder is a pretty normal maintenance task - less cleaning out all the old tape and residue, banging down any rivets or sheet metal edges and re-taping. The problem is in installing certain aftermarket tanks and pretty much any repaired/refurbed tank. I'm 6' 3"/210# and am allegedly usually the guy that can reach (or gets stuck reaching) the hard-to-reach snaps. Bo' and Baron bays aren't bad. But it ain't as easy as yanking a wing tank out of a Cherokee. TC |
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