Come see us at Oshkosh

Get 'em down to $250 apiece, and you won't be able to build 'em fast
enough...

$250 is pretty tough to accomplish. Maybe we will get there once we
have some volume, but its hard to get costs that low initially.

I know I'm hopelessly clueless about such things, but why would your
bank-of-LEDs-in-a-box cost so much more than (for example) the high-
intensity hand-held LED lantern I got for Xmas last year? It's got
an equal number of high-intensity LEDs, runs on batteries, and cost (I
think) about $25... (And it's bright as daylight...)

Educate me, please, because I don't get the differences between these
things.

Thanks,
--
Jay Honeck
Iowa City, IA
Pathfinder N56993
www.AlexisParkInn.com
"Your Aviation Destination"

On Jul 12, 12:20 pm, Jay Honeck wrote:
Get 'em down to $250 apiece, and you won't be able to build 'em fast
enough...
$250 is pretty tough to accomplish. Maybe we will get there once we
have some volume, but its hard to get costs that low initially.

I know I'm hopelessly clueless about such things, but why would your
bank-of-LEDs-in-a-box cost so much more than (for example) the high-
intensity hand-held LED lantern I got for Xmas last year? It's got
an equal number of high-intensity LEDs, runs on batteries, and cost (I
think) about $25... (And it's bright as daylight...)

Educate me, please, because I don't get the differences between these
things.

Thanks,
--
Jay Honeck
Iowa City, IA
Pathfinder N56993www.AlexisParkInn.com
"Your Aviation Destination"

Jay,

The LEDs in that lantern are not as high output as the ones we are
using. We are using LEDs that cost over $3.00 each and can burn up to
3 Watts per LED. I seriously doubt the ones in your lantern come even
close to that. Even though it looks bright to you at night, I
guarantee it isn't putting out anywhere near what ours is doing. Come
look at our lights running in full sunlight and bring your lantern for
comparison...

Add to that the custom machined housing/heat sink, anodization,
circuitry, mounting bracket, adhesives, wire, marketing, lower market
size, etc. etc. etc. and that explains why it is more expensive than a
commercially massed produced camping lantern.

Also, our light is specifically designed for an airplane. It will
handle vibration, shock, thermal extremes, total immersion in water,
won't interfere with your radios, etc. etc. You can drop it 10 feet
onto concrete and it will still work. You can throw it in your
swimming pool and it will still work. It is designed to last as long
or longer than your airframe.

Dean

wrote in message
oups.com...
Come
look at our lights running in full sunlight and bring your lantern for
comparison...

I suspect he will... He should have it Oshkosh anyway.

You can drop it 10 feet onto concrete and it will still work.

My airplane won't

You can throw it in your swimming pool and it will still work.

Again, something my airplane won't do.


Dean


You really need a better sig than that. Look at Jay's. He puts is URL in
every post.

In any event, I hope you do well with your product.

You can drop it 10 feet onto concrete and it will still work.

My airplane won't

True, but after 10 years of airframe vibration and turbulence, it
won't break. That is why it has to be that tough.


You can throw it in your swimming pool and it will still work.

Again, something my airplane won't do.

True, but if rain gets on it it won't leak and fail, same if you
pressure-wash it. It will also survive long term exposure to high
humidity environments.

Thanks for the goodwill, and I'll put a sig line as suggested.

By the way, we have an Oshkosh special price which is less than the
price on our website.

Dean
AeroLEDs LLC
http://www.aeroleds.com

wrote

Dean
AeroLEDs LLC
http://www.aeroleds.com


Try clicking on your page in the sig. It only brings up a page with no links,
at least in mine
--
Jim in NC.

On Jul 12, 1:29 pm, "Morgans" wrote:
wrote

Dean
AeroLEDs LLC
http://www.aeroleds.com


Try clicking on your page in the sig. It only brings up a page with no links,
at least in mine
--
Jim in NC.

The links are in the upper right hand corner of the page...

wrote in message
ups.com...
On Jul 12, 1:29 pm, "Morgans" wrote:
wrote

Dean
AeroLEDs LLC
http://www.aeroleds.com


Try clicking on your page in the sig. It only brings up a page with no
links,
at least in mine
--
Jim in NC.

The links are in the upper right hand corner of the page...

That is interesting. When the page open minimized, that portion of the page is
totally obscured, but at the same time, the page looks complete.

While I take responsibility for not realizing that, I can't help but wonder how
many others have missed them, too. g
--
Jim in NC

In rec.aviation.piloting wrote:
On Jul 12, 1:29 pm, "Morgans" wrote:
wrote

Try clicking on your page in the sig. It only brings up a page
with no links, at least in mine

The links are in the upper right hand corner of the page...

IMHO it would be better to have a big notice about the product on the
very first page. It can be a link to the detail page, but it needs to
be on the first page your potential customers see.

If you go down to the Chevy dealer, most of the new cars are parked out
front and the ones that are inside are behind big glass windows. They
don't ask you to come inside the front door into a room with just a
sign on the wall saying "Welcome to Acme Chevrolet", and _then_ go
through another door into a windowless room where the new cars are
sitting.

The press release should be on the Web page (in HTML) as well as in PDF.
Again, don't make people do extra work to find out about your product.

The photo of the light by itself is natively 587x373, but is being
scaled in the HTML to 587x464, which makes the light appear "stretched"
vertically. It also makes the photo a little more blocky or pixellated
than it otherwise might be. Things with reflectors are somewhat
difficult to take pictures of, but if you reshoot, consider putting the
light on a piece of white paper (to remove all distractions from the
background), lighting it from multiple angles to reduce shadows, and
turning off the camera flash.

The photo of the light as installed on the Kitfox is set in the HTML at
its native resolution, so that photo isn't distorted.

I think the installation instructions for the light would benefit from a
typical wiring diagram for both one and two light installations, and a
view of the connector with pin numbers. You should also give directions
on what to do with the master and slave wires that are unused (tape
off/insulate, most likely). This gets into the specifics of how it
installs on a particular plane, but you may also consider installing the
light half of the Molex connector at the factory, and possibly even
providing the harness half of the connector installed on a 12" or so
pigtail. Otherwise, the purchaser has to deal with crimping Molex pins,
which nobody has the right crimper for. If you are going to supply the
pins loose piece, give 'em six or seven of each, so they can screw up
once or twice.

The installation instructions also suffer from typical Microsoft Turd
paragraph indent problems in the ten installation steps and in part
1.0 of the Specifications. Also, part 1.0 should say "LEDs" (plural)
instead of "LED's" (possessive). Should part 3.4 say "Lightning"
instead of "Lighting"?

I don't quite understand section 3.5 of the specifications. I know what
the difference between positive and negative ground is, but it's not
clear whether the red and yellow wires always have to be more positive
than the black wire, or if it doesn't matter. Put another way, if you
have something like

resistor LED
red wire ---/\/\/------||--- black wire

then the red wire always has to be more positive than the black wire,
whereas if you have something like

bridge resistor LED
red wire ---+---||---+------/\/\/------||---,
| | |
'---||-----, |
| | |
,---||---' | |
| | |
black wire ---+---||-----+---------------------'

then it doesn't matter how the red and black wires are hooked up. (Yes,
I do realize that what's inside your light is a more complicated than a
resistor and an LED!)

I realize the big show is over, but an interesting demo might be to
mount one of your lights and a plain old incandescent lamp on a paint
shaker, or an electric motor with an offset weight on the shaft, or a
lawnmower engine - something that vibrates. Hook both lights to a
battery with very simple and visible wiring, to show that there's
nothing funny going on. Then turn on the shaker and see which one burns
out first. It's not as impressive as seeing it in person, but a
video of such a demo might be useful. Again, this is hard to
photograph, and it's not as good as seeing it in person, but you could
also put one of your lights on one wing, a regular lamp on the other
wing, turn them both on, and take a photo (no flash) from the cockpit
to illustrate the difference. Depending on how the lights are aimed,
it might help to have the plane pointing at the wall of a hangar, or
a known distance from a stripe on the pavement, to illustrate the
difference.

Matt Roberds

"Morgans" wrote in message
...

wrote

Dean
AeroLEDs LLC
http://www.aeroleds.com


Try clicking on your page in the sig. It only brings up a page with no
links, at least in mine
--
Jim in NC.

Worked 4 me

Internet Explorer 7.0
--
Geoff
The Sea Hawk at Wow Way d0t Com
remove spaces and make the obvious substitutions to reply by mail
When immigration is outlawed, only outlaws will immigrate.

Just some general comments - not aimed at Dean's product...

LED has been touted as the end all and be all of lighting, replacing
the incandescent bulb... However, the emperor's new clothes may be a
bit revealing...

First, is that LED lights require substantial heat sinks and adequate
ventilation in order to function... (Dean's product looks competently
designed for this)... Failure to adequately cool the LED will result
in short service life... An adequate heat sink often erases any size
advantage the LED started out with...
Initial installation cost of LED light assembly is markedly higher
than an incandescent... Colreg approved LED running lights for boats
are downright expensive...
Replacement cost of LED lighting that fails in service is vastly
higher than simply replacing a $20 bulb...
By the time the LED assembly is properly cooled with a heatsink the
weight advantage of LED is markedly lessened...
Voltage control is more stringent for proper functioning of LED light
assemblies, as opposed to incandescent filament bulbs..
Dimmers for LED lights are expensive for technical reasons...

In boats/yachts where extended operation from a battery set is a way
of life there has been a rush to replace incandescent with LED due to
it's more efficient use of watt hours... The experience with that has
shown that LED has its place, but it is not a blanket replacement...
For task lighting, such as spot lighting over a galley counter, the
LED is excellent... It is also excellent for lighting of stair steps,
in the head, inside of cabinets, drawers and closets, and night
lights...For general cabin lighting (even lighting of large areas) the
cold cathode and fluorescent lights are still preferred... For high
intensity tasks, such as deck lights, anchor raising lights, and spot
lights, the halogen bulb still reigns supreme... For a reading light,
the jury is still out - and I personally have not found a light my
eyes like better than the incandescent for extended periods of
reading... For mast lights and running lights the LED is making
progress, but initial cost and light output is still an issue...

Things are never as simple as they seem... Now, this is not intended
to begin a debate over Dean's product, it is simply remarks on what I
have found in the 2 years of research for outfitting my boat... What
that means in an aircraft is up to you...

denny