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#11
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In article ,
Michael Horowitz wrote: This is not an aircraft repair. I've got a piece of 4130 tubing, about 3" long, 3/4" dia and I'm trying to slip it over a like size tubing. Just because I'm trying to let friction do the holding, I'd like to remove as little metal from the external sleeve as possible. I made a slot in the tube and expanded it slightly with a wedge. I though maybe heating the insides would cause it to open like a clam. I could wedge it open and apply heat, thus deforming the tube. Other suggestions? - Mike At least for larger diameter tubes, you can buy a tubing expander from Harbor Freight -- and they work! |
#12
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On Fri, 31 Aug 2007 10:43:56 -0400, Michael Horowitz
wrote: I did it; very crudely. welded a piece of bar stock to a piece of tubing (along the tubing's axis,(looking vaguely like a hand axe, only much smaller), inserted the bar stock into the slot, then pushed down on the 'handle/tube" . that opened the slot enough to allow me to slip 1/8" over the tube I wanted to surround. hammered it the rest of the way. Now, there are aircraft repairs(I'm thinking of streamlined tube and landing gear) which say take a like sized piece of tubing, split it and slip it over the original tube. Can I use the same brute-force method or is that too much scaring of metal? - MIke |
#13
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For 3/4" tube--take a 3/4" ball bearing--drive it in until it's flush,
then take a short pc of 5/8" tube place on top of the ball bearing, (ends have to be square) and push-- Jerry Orval Fairbairn wrote: In article , Michael Horowitz wrote: This is not an aircraft repair. I've got a piece of 4130 tubing, about 3" long, 3/4" dia and I'm trying to slip it over a like size tubing. Just because I'm trying to let friction do the holding, I'd like to remove as little metal from the external sleeve as possible. I made a slot in the tube and expanded it slightly with a wedge. I though maybe heating the insides would cause it to open like a clam. I could wedge it open and apply heat, thus deforming the tube. Other suggestions? - Mike At least for larger diameter tubes, you can buy a tubing expander from Harbor Freight -- and they work! |
#14
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On Mon, 27 Aug 2007 17:51:37 -0700, "Rich S."
wrote: "Michael Horowitz" wrote in message .. . I find myself having to enlarge a bushing's ID by 1/16ths to 3/8ths. My concern is I don't know how to insure the 3/8" bit is aligned with the axis of the hole. Centered is good, but I'm more concerned with the alignment. Suggestions? - Mike Chuck a rod in the drillpress the same size as the existing hole. Slip the bushing on the rod and clamp it to the table. Replace the rod with your new drill or reamer. Make shavings. Rich S. And what if the hole is whollowed out such that rod or any drill bit you have doesn't touch the bushing walls evenly? - Mike |
#15
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![]() "Michael Horowitz" wrote in message ... On Mon, 27 Aug 2007 17:51:37 -0700, "Rich S." wrote: "Michael Horowitz" wrote in message . .. I find myself having to enlarge a bushing's ID by 1/16ths to 3/8ths. My concern is I don't know how to insure the 3/8" bit is aligned with the axis of the hole. Centered is good, but I'm more concerned with the alignment. Suggestions? - Mike Chuck a rod in the drillpress the same size as the existing hole. Slip the bushing on the rod and clamp it to the table. Replace the rod with your new drill or reamer. Make shavings. Rich S. And what if the hole is whollowed out such that rod or any drill bit you have doesn't touch the bushing walls evenly? - Mike You can use a light weight rod and bend it slightly, so it traces the OD of the hole, as the shaft rotates. Machine shop supplies sell a "wiggler". It chucks in a drill or mill and has a pointer about 2 inches long mounted on a ball. The ball fit allows you to bend it easily, and many times over in daily use. But bending an 1/8 welding rod will perform the same function, if you are patient with bending it. |
#16
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![]() "Michael Horowitz" wrote And what if the hole is whollowed out such that rod or any drill bit you have doesn't touch the bushing walls evenly? Depends on the style of bushing, and if it is installed in a larger structure, at present. If it is bushing with a flange, level the drillpress table, by chucking the rod, then using a good square to get the table perpendicular in all directions; then clam the bushing and drill. If it is without flange, and rather tall, chuck up rod, get bushing clamped so that the outsides of the bushing is parallel to the rod, and drill. If you have access to a lathe, chuck the bushing, and tailstock drill it. -- Jim in NC |
#17
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On Mon, 27 Aug 2007 20:42:47 -0400, Michael Horowitz
wrote: I find myself having to enlarge a bushing's ID by 1/16ths to 3/8ths. My concern is I don't know how to insure the 3/8" bit is aligned with the axis of the hole. Centered is good, but I'm more concerned with the alignment. Suggestions? - Mike I went to the machine shop around the corner with the intent of picking their brains. He took one look at it and said "push out the old bushing and push this one in". The new bushing had the ID I was looking for. Total time - :15 - Thanks for the replies - Mike |
#18
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On Sun, 16 Sep 2007 09:27:23 -0400, Michael Horowitz
wrote: On Mon, 27 Aug 2007 20:42:47 -0400, Michael Horowitz wrote: I find myself having to enlarge a bushing's ID by 1/16ths to 3/8ths. My concern is I don't know how to insure the 3/8" bit is aligned with the axis of the hole. Centered is good, but I'm more concerned with the alignment. Suggestions? - Mike I went to the machine shop around the corner with the intent of picking their brains. He took one look at it and said "push out the old bushing and push this one in". The new bushing had the ID I was looking for. Total time - :15 - Thanks for the replies - Mike your machine shop actually gave you the correct answer. |
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