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On Wed, 10 Oct 2007 15:49:48 -0700, Fred the Red Shirt
wrote: On Oct 9, 11:53 pm, Steve Hix wrote: In article .com, Fred the Red Shirt wrote: ... Obviously you have not seen how a telescope mirror ages over the years. Guess again. Well then you should have observed that the transparency increases between cleanings. It's easy to recoat the mirror, so it's not so much of a problem, certainly less of one than dealing with silver corrosion. While it is not a technologically daunting task, it is not cheap for IF you have the equipment (vacuum chamber, heater for vaporizing Aluminum) it's relatively simple. One of our Astronomy club members does up to 10 or 12" for the locals. IIRC his favorite source of Aluminum is peeling the foil off gum wrappers although regular Aluminum foil works. It just takes more power. It doesn't take a super high vacuum either. Just one high enough to develop a plasma although that's not part of the process. On local used the chemical process for coating which worked pretty well, but the coating isn't nearly as even as vacuum deposition. larger mirrors especially when you consider shipping. I have a 17.5" mirror that will need realuminizing when I finally get around to putting it into a scope. It has been cleaned exactly once, but the coating is nearly gone entirely after 30 years in storage. Offhand, do you know anyone who recoats mirrors that size? Not that size, but there are a number of labs that do the work and I think I saw a couple of links listed. Roger (K8RI). |
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On Oct 15, 4:44 am, "Roger (K8RI)" wrote:
On Wed, 10 Oct 2007 15:49:48 -0700, Fred the Red Shirt wrote: On Oct 9, 11:53 pm, Steve Hix wrote: In article .com, Fred the Red Shirt wrote: ... Obviously you have not seen how a telescope mirror ages over the years. Guess again. Well then you should have observed that the transparency increases between cleanings. It's easy to recoat the mirror, so it's not so much of a problem, certainly less of one than dealing with silver corrosion. While it is not a technologically daunting task, it is not cheap for IF you have the equipment (vacuum chamber, heater for vaporizing Aluminum) it's relatively simple. One of our Astronomy club members does up to 10 or 12" for the locals. IIRC his favorite source of Aluminum is peeling the foil off gum wrappers although regular Aluminum foil works. It just takes more power. Surface Preparation (cleaning) is extremely important as traces or organics (from handling( will prevent adhesion of the aluminum. Texereau recommends final cleaning by electron bombardment in the vacuum chamber. It doesn't take a super high vacuum either. Just one high enough to develop a plasma although that's not part of the process. On local used the chemical process for coating which worked pretty well, but the coating isn't nearly as even as vacuum deposition. Described by Texereau also, assuming you mean the chemical silvering process. larger mirrors especially when you consider shipping. I have a 17.5" mirror that will need realuminizing when I finally get around to putting it into a scope. It has been cleaned exactly once, but the coating is nearly gone entirely after 30 years in storage. Offhand, do you know anyone who recoats mirrors that size? Not that size, but there are a number of labs that do the work and I think I saw a couple of links listed. The place to ask would be sci.astro.amateur. I asked OP as it looked like maybe he might know one. -- FF |
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On Fri, 26 Oct 2007 09:53:04 -0700, Fred the Red Shirt
wrote: On Oct 15, 4:44 am, "Roger (K8RI)" wrote: On Wed, 10 Oct 2007 15:49:48 -0700, Fred the Red Shirt wrote: On Oct 9, 11:53 pm, Steve Hix wrote: In article .com, Fred the Red Shirt wrote: ... Obviously you have not seen how a telescope mirror ages over the years. Guess again. Well then you should have observed that the transparency increases between cleanings. It's easy to recoat the mirror, so it's not so much of a problem, certainly less of one than dealing with silver corrosion. While it is not a technologically daunting task, it is not cheap for IF you have the equipment (vacuum chamber, heater for vaporizing Aluminum) it's relatively simple. One of our Astronomy club members does up to 10 or 12" for the locals. IIRC his favorite source of Aluminum is peeling the foil off gum wrappers although regular Aluminum foil works. It just takes more power. Surface Preparation (cleaning) is extremely important as traces or organics (from handling( will prevent adhesion of the aluminum. Texereau recommends final cleaning by electron bombardment in the vacuum chamber. Which reminded me, my friend uses that plasma for the final cleaning. Thats a lot of electronic bombardment. :-)) It doesn't take a super high vacuum either. Just one high enough to develop a plasma although that's not part of the process. On local used the chemical process for coating which worked pretty well, but the coating isn't nearly as even as vacuum deposition. Described by Texereau also, assuming you mean the chemical silvering process. I do and it was. larger mirrors especially when you consider shipping. I have a 17.5" mirror that will need realuminizing when I finally get around to putting it into a scope. It has been cleaned exactly once, but the coating is nearly gone entirely after 30 years in storage. Offhand, do you know anyone who recoats mirrors that size? Not that size, but there are a number of labs that do the work and I think I saw a couple of links listed. The place to ask would be sci.astro.amateur. I asked OP as it looked like maybe he might know one. I had forgotten about that group and I used to follow it. Roger (K8RI) |
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On Oct 26, 2:04 pm, "Roger (K8RI)" wrote:
On Fri, 26 Oct 2007 09:53:04 -0700, Fred the Red Shirt ... Surface Preparation (cleaning) is extremely important as traces or organics (from handling( will prevent adhesion of the aluminum. Texereau recommends final cleaning by electron bombardment in the vacuum chamber. Which reminded me, my friend uses that plasma for the final cleaning. Thats a lot of electronic bombardment. :-)) How big is his vacuum chamber? What sort of vacuum pump(s) does he use? One large enough for a 17.5" mirror is rather non-trivial. Assuming a 20" diameter cylindrical chamber, the top and bottom would need to support over 3000 pounds each, if the work is done at sea level. -- FF |
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Fred the Red Shirt wrote:
How big is his vacuum chamber? What sort of vacuum pump(s) does he use? One large enough for a 17.5" mirror is rather non-trivial. Assuming a 20" diameter cylindrical chamber, the top and bottom would need to support over 3000 pounds each, if the work is done at sea level. Is it really that hard to build a vacuum chamber? Seems to me that the most pressure it'll ever experience is about 15psi (1 bar), while it's trivial to build/buy pressure containers that can handle 10-100x that much (positive) pressure. Certainly if building a 1 bar vessel 20" in diameter is daunting, building a submarine (or worse, a deep-sea bathyscaphe, which have reached depths of almost 36,000 feet below sea level, resisting a pressure of about 1,100 bar) would be unthinkable. Or am I missing something? Mark "under pressure" Hickey |
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![]() "Mark Hickey" wrote in message ... Fred the Red Shirt wrote: How big is his vacuum chamber? What sort of vacuum pump(s) does he use? One large enough for a 17.5" mirror is rather non-trivial. Assuming a 20" diameter cylindrical chamber, the top and bottom would need to support over 3000 pounds each, if the work is done at sea level. Is it really that hard to build a vacuum chamber? Seems to me that the most pressure it'll ever experience is about 15psi (1 bar), while it's trivial to build/buy pressure containers that can handle 10-100x that much (positive) pressure. Certainly if building a 1 bar vessel 20" in diameter is daunting, building a submarine (or worse, a deep-sea bathyscaphe, which have reached depths of almost 36,000 feet below sea level, resisting a pressure of about 1,100 bar) would be unthinkable. Or am I missing something? Maybe, maybe not. Round pressure vessels keep their shell walls in tension, hence the more pressure the better they hold their shape. Vacuum vessels are just the opposite, and quite often much easier to collapse than one might naturally assume. I can say I once built a round vacuum chamber out of rolled 1/4" aluminum. It was approximately 18" long and 18" in diameter. The bottom was 3/8" aluminum, and the top was 1" clear plastic. The chamber was successful with up to an near perfect vacuum, and used many times without failure. At maximum vacuum, the bottom would dish approximately 1/8 to 3/16" inch, an the plastic top would dish about 1/2". I have a chamber I use now for another purpose, but it is only 6" in diameter. The top for it is just 3/16" tempered glass. Hope the number might help your estimates. Max |
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Maxwell wrote:
"Mark Hickey" wrote in message ... Fred the Red Shirt wrote: How big is his vacuum chamber? What sort of vacuum pump(s) does he use? One large enough for a 17.5" mirror is rather non-trivial. Assuming a 20" diameter cylindrical chamber, the top and bottom would need to support over 3000 pounds each, if the work is done at sea level. Is it really that hard to build a vacuum chamber? Seems to me that the most pressure it'll ever experience is about 15psi (1 bar), while it's trivial to build/buy pressure containers that can handle 10-100x that much (positive) pressure. Certainly if building a 1 bar vessel 20" in diameter is daunting, building a submarine (or worse, a deep-sea bathyscaphe, which have reached depths of almost 36,000 feet below sea level, resisting a pressure of about 1,100 bar) would be unthinkable. Or am I missing something? Maybe, maybe not. Round pressure vessels keep their shell walls in tension, hence the more pressure the better they hold their shape. Vacuum vessels are just the opposite, and quite often much easier to collapse than one might naturally assume. I can say I once built a round vacuum chamber out of rolled 1/4" aluminum. It was approximately 18" long and 18" in diameter. The bottom was 3/8" aluminum, and the top was 1" clear plastic. The chamber was successful with up to an near perfect vacuum, and used many times without failure. At maximum vacuum, the bottom would dish approximately 1/8 to 3/16" inch, an the plastic top would dish about 1/2". I have a chamber I use now for another purpose, but it is only 6" in diameter. The top for it is just 3/16" tempered glass. Hope the number might help your estimates. Max You know, an ABSOLUTE vacuum is only 15 psi... |
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On Nov 1, 12:21 pm, "Maxwell" wrote:
"Mark Hickey" wrote in message ... Fred the Red Shirt wrote: How big is his vacuum chamber? What sort of vacuum pump(s) does he use? One large enough for a 17.5" mirror is rather non-trivial. Assuming a 20" diameter cylindrical chamber, the top and bottom would need to support over 3000 pounds each, if the work is done at sea level. Is it really that hard to build a vacuum chamber? Seems to me that the most pressure it'll ever experience is about 15psi (1 bar), while it's trivial to build/buy pressure containers that can handle 10-100x that much (positive) pressure. Certainly if building a 1 bar vessel 20" in diameter is daunting, building a submarine (or worse, a deep-sea bathyscaphe, which have reached depths of almost 36,000 feet below sea level, resisting a pressure of about 1,100 bar) would be unthinkable. Or am I missing something? Maybe, maybe not. Round pressure vessels keep their shell walls in tension, hence the more pressure the better they hold their shape. Vacuum vessels are just the opposite, and quite often much easier to collapse than one might naturally assume. I can say I once built a round vacuum chamber out of rolled 1/4" aluminum. It was approximately 18" long and 18" in diameter. The bottom was 3/8" aluminum, and the top was 1" clear plastic. The chamber was successful with up to an near perfect vacuum, and used many times without failure. At maximum vacuum, the bottom would dish approximately 1/8 to 3/16" inch, an the plastic top would dish about 1/2". I have a chamber I use now for another purpose, but it is only 6" in diameter. The top for it is just 3/16" tempered glass. Hope the number might help your estimates. Ok so at 18" diameter that clear plastic dish had a surface area of about 254 square inches, so it saw a force of about 3700 lbs, less if you were significantly above sea level. -- FF |
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On Thu, 1 Nov 2007 12:21:03 -0500, "Maxwell"
wrote: "Mark Hickey" wrote in message .. . Fred the Red Shirt wrote: How big is his vacuum chamber? What sort of vacuum pump(s) does he use? One large enough for a 17.5" mirror is rather non-trivial. Assuming a 20" diameter cylindrical chamber, the top and bottom would need to support over 3000 pounds each, if the work is done at sea level. Is it really that hard to build a vacuum chamber? Seems to me that the most pressure it'll ever experience is about 15psi (1 bar), while it's trivial to build/buy pressure containers that can handle 10-100x that much (positive) pressure. Certainly if building a 1 bar vessel 20" in diameter is daunting, building a submarine (or worse, a deep-sea bathyscaphe, which have reached depths of almost 36,000 feet below sea level, resisting a pressure of about 1,100 bar) would be unthinkable. Or am I missing something? Maybe, maybe not. Round pressure vessels keep their shell walls in tension, hence the more pressure the better they hold their shape. Vacuum vessels are just the opposite, and quite often much easier to collapse than one might naturally assume. I can say I once built a round vacuum chamber out of rolled 1/4" aluminum. It was approximately 18" long and 18" in diameter. The bottom was 3/8" aluminum, and the top was 1" clear plastic. The chamber was successful with up to an near perfect vacuum, and used many times without failure. At maximum vacuum, the bottom would dish approximately 1/8 to 3/16" inch, an the plastic top would dish about 1/2". We used to use this on glass plates to grind the corrector for a schmidt casagrain. Warp the glass with the vacuum, grind to a parabola, and then release the vacuum. In this case it took a lot more work than to explain. :-)) Roger (K8RI) I have a chamber I use now for another purpose, but it is only 6" in diameter. The top for it is just 3/16" tempered glass. Hope the number might help your estimates. Max |
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On Nov 1, 8:53 am, Mark Hickey wrote:
Fred the Red Shirt wrote: How big is his vacuum chamber? What sort of vacuum pump(s) does he use? One large enough for a 17.5" mirror is rather non-trivial. Assuming a 20" diameter cylindrical chamber, the top and bottom would need to support over 3000 pounds each, if the work is done at sea level. Is it really that hard to build a vacuum chamber? No, but it is much easier to build a small one than a large one. Seems to me that the most pressure it'll ever experience is about 15psi (1 bar), while it's trivial to build/buy pressure containers that can handle 10-100x that much (positive) pressure. Certainly if building a 1 bar vessel 20" in diameter is daunting, building a submarine (or worse, a deep-sea bathyscaphe, which have reached depths of almost 36,000 feet below sea level, resisting a pressure of about 1,100 bar) would be unthinkable. Or am I missing something? Buckling. The skin of a pressure vessel is in almost pure tension, so they can be thin and not buckle. Any bending moment on a flat section bows it outward reducing the bending moment (essentially converting it to tension) The sides of vacuum vessel see compression and bending, and any flat sections will buckle inward which will increase the bending moment. The bathyscape and similar vessels are cylindrical with hemi-spherical ends so that their skin is in almost pure compression with very little bending moment. A 55-gallon drum can be cut down to make the sides of the vacuum chamber but I'm not clear on how to make the end hemispherical. An option is to use nested vessels, with partial vacuum between them. There is a reason why bell jars have a hemispherical top, and it is not esthetics. -- FF |
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