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On Feb 19, 12:38 pm, Sliker wrote:
Sounds like another reason not to use that alternator wiring method. I also remember reading about him mentioning using a high amperage rated shunt for the amp meter when used in that location. The issues seem to snowball. I have one question, if the B lead were hooked up to the starter contactor, would reversing the wires on the amp meter make it read correctly? Nope. Now it would read "charge" all the time, even during discharge. The ammeter is an indication of what the battery is doing. It needs to be wired as shown so that there are two directions of electron flow so you know whether the alternator is managing to keep up or not. If the alternator's output isn't wired to the bus itself rather than the contactor, you'll have no idea if it's working properly. The ammeter won't be able to tell you anything worthwhile. Dan |
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On Feb 19, 7:27 pm, Pelican wrote:
Ah, that explains some other issue I have. In my flying homebuilt, (the one I had to buy that was finished and flying because I didn't know it would take so many years to complete my Glasair) It's amp meter only shows a charge, but will never indicate a discharge. It just goes to the center position when there's a load and the alternator isn't turning. So where I the best place to install a shunt? I need to rewire that darn thing. Rich Sounds like the ammeter is installed in the alternator's output line. Doesn't belong there. A shunt won't fix that. The ammeter should be connected like the diagram in that website I pointed out ealrier: between the master contactor and the bus. Do that and all will be fine. Piper used a loadmeter for some years, which was an ammeter that had its zero position on the left instead of center, and was used to indicate the alternator's output. Maybe that's what the builder of your airplane was thinking of when he connected it between the alternator and bus. Dan |
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