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#1
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On Sep 19, 5:33*am, jcarlyle wrote:
In that case, would one of those steamer thingies that they use to remove wallpaper be useful? -John On Sep 19, 8:27 am, JJ Sinclair wrote: Yeah, really hot water, boiling water won't hurt plexy and may loosen the stuff some. Scraping with wood will leave a rub mark, but this can be removed with canopy cleaner/scratch remover. I once removed the stuff after 20 years...........Ugh! JJ- Hide quoted text - - Show quoted text - Worth a try, plexy doesn't yield until it reaches about 350F |
#2
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On Sep 19, 6:08*am, JJ Sinclair wrote:
On Sep 19, 5:33*am, jcarlyle wrote: In that case, would one of those steamer thingies that they use to remove wallpaper be useful? -John On Sep 19, 8:27 am, JJ Sinclair wrote: Yeah, really hot water, boiling water won't hurt plexy and may loosen the stuff some. Scraping with wood will leave a rub mark, but this can be removed with canopy cleaner/scratch remover. I once removed the stuff after 20 years...........Ugh! JJ- Hide quoted text - - Show quoted text - Worth a try, plexy doesn't yield until it reaches about 350F- Hide quoted text - - Show quoted text - This is from one manufacturer of acrylic plastic (Plexiglas is a brand name). Note the softening and melting temps are lower than some have suggested in this thread - - so don't heat it and then lean on it (g). "Thermal Maximum Recommended Continuous Service Temperature °F 170-190 Softening Temperature °F 210-220 Melting Temperature °F 300-315" I would do as JJ suggests, use boiling water. But use caution about getting "creative" while applying heat, My experience is the longer some such protective coatings are aged, even when not directly exposed to UV, the harder they are to remove - - UV makes is worse still!. So it's probably better to get on it sooner rather than later. If the coating is left on because the canopy is part of a building project, one might consider removing the coating and then using clear plastic sheet to drape the canopy. On a smaller scale, some of the tapes used to attach yaw strings can be hell to remove later after prolonged UV exposure - - - especially clear tapes. Ease of removal, leaving no residue even after years of exposure, is one of the benefits of my MKIV yaw string. bumper zz Minden |
#3
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On Sep 19, 7:30*am, bumper wrote:
On Sep 19, 6:08*am, JJ Sinclair wrote: On Sep 19, 5:33*am, jcarlyle wrote: In that case, would one of those steamer thingies that they use to remove wallpaper be useful? -John On Sep 19, 8:27 am, JJ Sinclair wrote: Yeah, really hot water, boiling water won't hurt plexy and may loosen the stuff some. Scraping with wood will leave a rub mark, but this can be removed with canopy cleaner/scratch remover. I once removed the stuff after 20 years...........Ugh! JJ- Hide quoted text - - Show quoted text - Worth a try, plexy doesn't yield until it reaches about 350F- Hide quoted text - - Show quoted text - This is from one manufacturer of acrylic plastic (Plexiglas is a brand name). Note the softening and melting temps are lower than some have suggested in this thread - - so don't heat it and then lean on it (g). "Thermal Maximum Recommended Continuous Service Temperature °F 170-190 Softening Temperature °F 210-220 Melting Temperature °F 300-315" I would do as JJ suggests, use boiling water. But use caution about getting "creative" while applying heat, My experience is the longer some such protective coatings are aged, even when not directly exposed to UV, the harder they are to remove - - UV makes is worse still!. So it's probably better to get on it sooner rather than later. If the coating is left on because the canopy is part of a building project, one might consider removing the coating and then using clear plastic sheet to drape the canopy. On a smaller scale, some of the tapes used to attach yaw strings can be hell to remove later after prolonged UV exposure - - - especially clear tapes. Ease of removal, leaving no residue even after years of exposure, is one of the benefits of my MKIV yaw string. bumper zz Minden Ok......................I am going to try putting a vaporizer under the canopy assy and let it steam for a couple of hours this AM. Will also try some of the other suggestions, and one from a friend who say's if it's "spray-lat" use a rag with isopropyl alcohol. Brad |
#4
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On Sep 19, 6:03*pm, Brad wrote:
On Sep 19, 7:30*am, bumper wrote: On Sep 19, 6:08*am, JJ Sinclair wrote: On Sep 19, 5:33*am, jcarlyle wrote: In that case, would one of those steamer thingies that they use to remove wallpaper be useful? -John On Sep 19, 8:27 am, JJ Sinclair wrote: Yeah, really hot water, boiling water won't hurt plexy and may loosen the stuff some. Scraping with wood will leave a rub mark, but this can be removed with canopy cleaner/scratch remover. I once removed the stuff after 20 years...........Ugh! JJ- Hide quoted text - - Show quoted text - Worth a try, plexy doesn't yield until it reaches about 350F- Hide quoted text - - Show quoted text - This is from one manufacturer of acrylic plastic (Plexiglas is a brand name). Note the softening and melting temps are lower than some have suggested in this thread - - so don't heat it and then lean on it (g). "Thermal Maximum Recommended Continuous Service Temperature °F 170-190 Softening Temperature °F 210-220 Melting Temperature °F 300-315" I would do as JJ suggests, use boiling water. But use caution about getting "creative" while applying heat, My experience is the longer some such protective coatings are aged, even when not directly exposed to UV, the harder they are to remove - - UV makes is worse still!. So it's probably better to get on it sooner rather than later. If the coating is left on because the canopy is part of a building project, one might consider removing the coating and then using clear plastic sheet to drape the canopy. On a smaller scale, some of the tapes used to attach yaw strings can be hell to remove later after prolonged UV exposure - - - especially clear tapes. Ease of removal, leaving no residue even after years of exposure, is one of the benefits of my MKIV yaw string. bumper zz Minden Ok......................I am going to try putting a vaporizer under the canopy assy and let it steam for a couple of hours this AM. Will also try some of the other suggestions, and one from a friend who say's if it's "spray-lat" use a rag with isopropyl alcohol. Brad Brad hi from rainy France. I sometimes have lenses made and sometimes the process involves glue of some kind that I used to remove with smelly toxic stuff, then one day I left some in water for a few days and was suprised to find the stuff fell off after a day in water. |
#5
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http://home.hiwaay.net/~langford/kcf.html
Look at this link towards the bottom of the page. It has some good details on getting rid of the film covering. |
#6
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On Sep 19, 11:44*am, wrote:
http://home.hiwaay.net/~langford/kcf.html Look at this link towards the bottom of the page. *It has some good details on getting rid of the film covering. Hey, guess what? Hot water works, I just poured boiling water over a K-6 canopy that must be 30 years old. The protective covering was hard as a rock. Boiling water made it soft and rubbery and I was able to get one side started and then peal the whole covering off. Anyone need a K-6 canopy? Also have 2 open Cirrus forward canopies and a blue rear Cirrus canopy (mounted). and a Minstrel canopy, all with rock hard protective covering that we now know how to remove. JJ |
#7
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It's almost 11:00 PM and I just finished removing the last of the
Spray-Lat from my HP-24 transparency. Started this morning around lunch time and pretty much stuck with the project all day. Thanks to all for suggestions...................... lessons learned: Paint on Spray-Lat really makes it tough to remove. Denatured alcohol helps with removal, but really hurts your fingers. Fingernails make really good removal tools, but they sorta get bent back and make nice places for denatured alcohol to flow. The best scraper is the George Foreman Grill cleaning tool. Boiling water works great. I'll be calling Tim next week for some Plexiglas scratch removal stuff. Should have some pics of the cleaned up canopy on the HP-24 website next week, all in all it turned out great and I am pleased with the results. Brad |
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