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removing transparency coating



 
 
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  #1  
Old September 19th 09, 02:08 PM posted to rec.aviation.soaring
JJ Sinclair
external usenet poster
 
Posts: 388
Default removing transparency coating

On Sep 19, 5:33*am, jcarlyle wrote:
In that case, would one of those steamer thingies that they use to
remove wallpaper be useful?

-John

On Sep 19, 8:27 am, JJ Sinclair wrote:



Yeah, really hot water, boiling water won't hurt plexy and may loosen
the stuff some. Scraping with wood will leave a rub mark, but this can
be removed with canopy cleaner/scratch remover. I once removed the
stuff after 20 years...........Ugh!
JJ- Hide quoted text -


- Show quoted text -


Worth a try, plexy doesn't yield until it reaches about 350F
  #2  
Old September 19th 09, 03:30 PM posted to rec.aviation.soaring
bumper[_2_]
external usenet poster
 
Posts: 19
Default removing transparency coating

On Sep 19, 6:08*am, JJ Sinclair wrote:
On Sep 19, 5:33*am, jcarlyle wrote:





In that case, would one of those steamer thingies that they use to
remove wallpaper be useful?


-John


On Sep 19, 8:27 am, JJ Sinclair wrote:


Yeah, really hot water, boiling water won't hurt plexy and may loosen
the stuff some. Scraping with wood will leave a rub mark, but this can
be removed with canopy cleaner/scratch remover. I once removed the
stuff after 20 years...........Ugh!
JJ- Hide quoted text -


- Show quoted text -


Worth a try, plexy doesn't yield until it reaches about 350F- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -


This is from one manufacturer of acrylic plastic (Plexiglas is a brand
name). Note the softening and melting temps are lower than some have
suggested in this thread - - so don't heat it and then lean on it (g).

"Thermal
Maximum Recommended Continuous Service
Temperature
°F 170-190
Softening Temperature °F 210-220
Melting Temperature °F 300-315"

I would do as JJ suggests, use boiling water. But use caution about
getting "creative" while applying heat,

My experience is the longer some such protective coatings are aged,
even when not directly exposed to UV, the harder they are to remove -
- UV makes is worse still!. So it's probably better to get on it
sooner rather than later. If the coating is left on because the canopy
is part of a building project, one might consider removing the coating
and then using clear plastic sheet to drape the canopy.

On a smaller scale, some of the tapes used to attach yaw strings can
be hell to remove later after prolonged UV exposure - - - especially
clear tapes. Ease of removal, leaving no residue even after years of
exposure, is one of the benefits of my MKIV yaw string.

bumper
zz
Minden
  #3  
Old September 19th 09, 05:03 PM posted to rec.aviation.soaring
Brad[_2_]
external usenet poster
 
Posts: 722
Default removing transparency coating

On Sep 19, 7:30*am, bumper wrote:
On Sep 19, 6:08*am, JJ Sinclair wrote:





On Sep 19, 5:33*am, jcarlyle wrote:


In that case, would one of those steamer thingies that they use to
remove wallpaper be useful?


-John


On Sep 19, 8:27 am, JJ Sinclair wrote:


Yeah, really hot water, boiling water won't hurt plexy and may loosen
the stuff some. Scraping with wood will leave a rub mark, but this can
be removed with canopy cleaner/scratch remover. I once removed the
stuff after 20 years...........Ugh!
JJ- Hide quoted text -


- Show quoted text -


Worth a try, plexy doesn't yield until it reaches about 350F- Hide quoted text -


- Show quoted text -


This is from one manufacturer of acrylic plastic (Plexiglas is a brand
name). Note the softening and melting temps are lower than some have
suggested in this thread - - so don't heat it and then lean on it (g).

"Thermal
Maximum Recommended Continuous Service
Temperature
°F 170-190
Softening Temperature °F 210-220
Melting Temperature °F 300-315"

I would do as JJ suggests, use boiling water. But use caution about
getting "creative" while applying heat,

My experience is the longer some such protective coatings are aged,
even when not directly exposed to UV, the harder they are to remove -
- UV makes is worse still!. So it's probably better to get on it
sooner rather than later. If the coating is left on because the canopy
is part of a building project, one might consider removing the coating
and then using clear plastic sheet to drape the canopy.

On a smaller scale, some of the tapes used to attach yaw strings can
be hell to remove later after prolonged UV exposure - - - especially
clear tapes. Ease of removal, leaving no residue even after years of
exposure, is one of the benefits of my MKIV yaw string.

bumper
zz
Minden


Ok......................I am going to try putting a vaporizer under
the canopy assy and let it steam for a couple of hours this AM. Will
also try some of the other suggestions, and one from a friend who
say's if it's "spray-lat" use a rag with isopropyl alcohol.

Brad
  #4  
Old September 19th 09, 05:13 PM posted to rec.aviation.soaring
brianDG303[_2_]
external usenet poster
 
Posts: 161
Default removing transparency coating

On Sep 19, 6:03*pm, Brad wrote:
On Sep 19, 7:30*am, bumper wrote:





On Sep 19, 6:08*am, JJ Sinclair wrote:


On Sep 19, 5:33*am, jcarlyle wrote:


In that case, would one of those steamer thingies that they use to
remove wallpaper be useful?


-John


On Sep 19, 8:27 am, JJ Sinclair wrote:


Yeah, really hot water, boiling water won't hurt plexy and may loosen
the stuff some. Scraping with wood will leave a rub mark, but this can
be removed with canopy cleaner/scratch remover. I once removed the
stuff after 20 years...........Ugh!
JJ- Hide quoted text -


- Show quoted text -


Worth a try, plexy doesn't yield until it reaches about 350F- Hide quoted text -


- Show quoted text -


This is from one manufacturer of acrylic plastic (Plexiglas is a brand
name). Note the softening and melting temps are lower than some have
suggested in this thread - - so don't heat it and then lean on it (g).


"Thermal
Maximum Recommended Continuous Service
Temperature
°F 170-190
Softening Temperature °F 210-220
Melting Temperature °F 300-315"


I would do as JJ suggests, use boiling water. But use caution about
getting "creative" while applying heat,


My experience is the longer some such protective coatings are aged,
even when not directly exposed to UV, the harder they are to remove -
- UV makes is worse still!. So it's probably better to get on it
sooner rather than later. If the coating is left on because the canopy
is part of a building project, one might consider removing the coating
and then using clear plastic sheet to drape the canopy.


On a smaller scale, some of the tapes used to attach yaw strings can
be hell to remove later after prolonged UV exposure - - - especially
clear tapes. Ease of removal, leaving no residue even after years of
exposure, is one of the benefits of my MKIV yaw string.


bumper
zz
Minden


Ok......................I am going to try putting a vaporizer under
the canopy assy and let it steam for a couple of hours this AM. Will
also try some of the other suggestions, and one from a friend who
say's if it's "spray-lat" use a rag with isopropyl alcohol.

Brad


Brad
hi from rainy France.
I sometimes have lenses made and sometimes the process involves glue
of some kind that I used to remove with smelly toxic stuff, then one
day I left some in water for a few days and was suprised to find the
stuff fell off after a day in water.
  #5  
Old September 19th 09, 07:44 PM posted to rec.aviation.soaring
[email protected]
external usenet poster
 
Posts: 16
Default removing transparency coating

http://home.hiwaay.net/~langford/kcf.html

Look at this link towards the bottom of the page. It has some good
details on getting rid of the film covering.

  #6  
Old September 19th 09, 09:34 PM posted to rec.aviation.soaring
JJ Sinclair
external usenet poster
 
Posts: 388
Default removing transparency coating

On Sep 19, 11:44*am, wrote:
http://home.hiwaay.net/~langford/kcf.html

Look at this link towards the bottom of the page. *It has some good
details on getting rid of the film covering.


Hey, guess what? Hot water works, I just poured boiling water over a
K-6 canopy that must be 30 years old. The protective covering was hard
as a rock. Boiling water made it soft and rubbery and I was able to
get one side started and then peal the whole covering off. Anyone need
a K-6 canopy? Also have 2 open Cirrus forward canopies and a blue rear
Cirrus canopy (mounted). and a Minstrel canopy, all with rock hard
protective covering that we now know how to remove.
JJ
  #7  
Old September 20th 09, 07:06 AM posted to rec.aviation.soaring
Brad[_2_]
external usenet poster
 
Posts: 722
Default removing transparency coating

It's almost 11:00 PM and I just finished removing the last of the
Spray-Lat from my HP-24 transparency. Started this morning around
lunch time and pretty much stuck with the project all day.

Thanks to all for suggestions...................... lessons learned:

Paint on Spray-Lat really makes it tough to remove.

Denatured alcohol helps with removal, but really hurts your fingers.

Fingernails make really good removal tools, but they sorta get bent
back
and make nice places for denatured alcohol to flow.

The best scraper is the George Foreman Grill cleaning tool.

Boiling water works great.

I'll be calling Tim next week for some Plexiglas scratch removal
stuff.

Should have some pics of the cleaned up canopy on the HP-24 website
next week, all in all it turned out great and I am pleased with the
results.

Brad
 




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