Alternative to welding aluminum frame of Komet?

I believe stainless steel fasteners would be fine with aluminum in
this situation.

More info below quoted from http://www.bssa.org.uk/topics.php?article=89


"Aluminium and stainless steel together also appears to be a bi-
metallic corrosion risk, from the 'nobility' table.
With this combination the affect of relative surface area on corrosion
is important.

A large area of 'cathode' relative to 'anode' will accelerate the
anodic corrosion. Although aluminium is anodic to stainless steel,
large relative surface areas of aluminium to stainless steel can be
acceptable, dependant on local conditions.
Stainless steel fasteners in aluminium plates or sheets are normally considered safe, whereas aluminium rivets or bolts holding stainless steel parts together is an unwise combination, as there is a practical risk of corrosion.

An example of the safe use of stainless steel and aluminium together is where stainless steel fasteners and hold down bolts are used to secure aluminium roadway or bridge parapet guards.
Even with no insulation between the metals, there should be little
risk of corrosion.

In contrast, in a marine environment, severe localised pitting
corrosion to the aluminium treads has been observed where un-insulated
stainless steel bolts were used to secure the treads in place.
On the same ladder however, bolts with sound insulating washers did
not show any pitting on the surrounding aluminium."

tstock wrote:
I believe stainless steel fasteners would be fine with aluminum in
this situation.

More info below quoted from http://www.bssa.org.uk/topics.php?article=89

The table in this reference shows zinc much closer to aluminum than
stainless steel, thus a lower corrosion potential. That suggests the
common zinc plated steel rivets would be a better choice; however, I
must note all the rivets I checked, top to bottom, on my Cobra trailer
are aluminum!

As long as the joint doesn't get wet, the materials don't matter. The
joint will likely have condensation on it at times, so it is some concern.

For the intended application, size, quantity, cost, and weight of the
rivets provide no real restraints, so choosing a suitably strong
aluminum rivet should not be a problem. Put in a few extra and be done
with it. It's a trailer top, not an airplane. I'd skip the expensive
glue, too.

--
Eric Greenwell - Washington State, USA

I'd use a bunch of MD43BS 1/8" Monel pop rivets. They have a good
service history when used in aluminum and to join aluminum and steel.
I've got loads of them, contact me via email.

Thanks, Bob K.

"Bob Kuykendall" wrote in message
...
I'd use a bunch of MD43BS 1/8" Monel pop rivets. They have a good
service history when used in aluminum and to join aluminum and steel.
I've got loads of them, contact me via email.

Thanks, Bob K.

John Thorp (with no "e") recommended Monel pop rivets (From U.S. Shoe
manufacturing IIRC) for assembling the T-18 as an alternate to the aluminum
AN rivets.

--
Geoff
The Sea Hawk at Wow Way d0t Com
remove spaces and make the obvious substitutions to reply by mail
When immigration is outlawed, only outlaws will immigrate.

On Oct 22, 7:34*pm, "Capt. Geoffrey Thorpe" The Sea Hawk @See My
Sig.com wrote:
"Bob Kuykendall" wrote in message

...

I'd use a bunch of MD43BS 1/8" Monel pop rivets. They have a good
service history when used in aluminum and to join aluminum and steel.
I've got loads of them, contact me via email.

Thanks, Bob K.

John Thorp (with no "e") recommended Monel pop rivets (From U.S. Shoe
manufacturing IIRC) for assembling the T-18 as an alternate to the aluminum
AN rivets.

--
Geoff
The Sea Hawk at Wow Way d0t Com
remove spaces and make the obvious substitutions to reply by mail
When immigration is outlawed, only outlaws will immigrate.

I apologize up front for asking for advice and than ignoring all of it
and just doing my own thing...Thanks for the replies and help.

That said, I ended up reading the specs for JB Weld Puddy and decided
that if I wasn't going to jump on top of it or leave it out under 3
feet of snow that 10,000 pounds of shear strength might be enough to
repair the broken weld. Here is a pic of the break befo
http://www.taylormadeawning.com/imag...ailer_weld.jpg

Here is the fix while curing:
http://www.taylormadeawning.com/imag...iler_weld2.jpg

I am going to trailer up to Logan, Ut this weekend to hopefully fly
the ridges and will report back if the patch job fix has any problems.

Thanks,
Bruno - B4

Bruno wrote:


I apologize up front for asking for advice and than ignoring all of it
and just doing my own thing...Thanks for the replies and help.

That said, I ended up reading the specs for JB Weld Puddy and decided
that if I wasn't going to jump on top of it or leave it out under 3
feet of snow that 10,000 pounds of shear strength might be enough to
repair the broken weld. Here is a pic of the break befo
http://www.taylormadeawning.com/imag...ailer_weld.jpg

Here is the fix while curing:
http://www.taylormadeawning.com/imag...iler_weld2.jpg

I am going to trailer up to Logan, Ut this weekend to hopefully fly
the ridges and will report back if the patch job fix has any problems.

Check it frequently, and let us know when it breaks (wink)

--
Eric Greenwell - Washington State, USA
* Change "netto" to "net" to email me directly

On Oct 23, 2:30*pm, Bruno wrote:
On Oct 22, 7:34*pm, "Capt. Geoffrey Thorpe" The Sea Hawk @See My



Sig.com wrote:
"Bob Kuykendall" wrote in message

....

I'd use a bunch of MD43BS 1/8" Monel pop rivets. They have a good
service history when used in aluminum and to join aluminum and steel.
I've got loads of them, contact me via email.

Thanks, Bob K.

John Thorp (with no "e") recommended Monel pop rivets (From U.S. Shoe
manufacturing IIRC) for assembling the T-18 as an alternate to the aluminum
AN rivets.

--
Geoff
The Sea Hawk at Wow Way d0t Com
remove spaces and make the obvious substitutions to reply by mail
When immigration is outlawed, only outlaws will immigrate.

I apologize up front for asking for advice and than ignoring all of it
and just doing my own thing...Thanks for the replies and help.

That said, I ended up reading the specs for JB Weld Puddy and decided
that if I wasn't going to jump on top of it or leave it out under 3
feet of snow that 10,000 pounds of shear strength might be enough to
repair the broken weld. *Here is a pic of the break befohttp://www.taylormadeawning.com/imag...ailer_weld.jpg

Here is the fix while curing:http://www.taylormadeawning.com/imag...iler_weld2.jpg

I am going to trailer up to Logan, Ut this weekend to hopefully fly
the ridges and will report back if the patch job fix has any problems.

Thanks,
Bruno - B4

Mmmm. I think a plate and rivets would be an awfully better idea.

You do realize you might risk being accused of missing a Y chromosome.
You passed up on an opportunity to buy a decent pop riveter, a new
cordless drill, to cut up you hand on some aluminum plate. Spill a
little blood. You could have tried to justify a TIG welder and welding
course...nope out came the JB Weld. Sigh.

Seriously there is no way this is going to be a more robsut repair
than a few aluminum triangles and pop rivets. How much is your time
worth dealing with a broken trailer when you really need it to work.

Darryl