![]() |
If this is your first visit, be sure to check out the FAQ by clicking the link above. You may have to register before you can post: click the register link above to proceed. To start viewing messages, select the forum that you want to visit from the selection below. |
|
|
|
Thread Tools | Display Modes |
|
#1
|
|||
|
|||
![]()
On Nov 24, 12:39*pm, jcarlyle wrote:
Need some advice for stopping a drip (once per 20 seconds) from a tail tank. I'm in the same boat. I emptied out the tank and blew air up into the line from the bottom and then filled it again and the drip was gone. I head dirt/debris move around inside the tank and figure that was not allowing the valve to close completely on my ASW-20B tail tank. That said, anyone have any good idea how to clean out one of these tanks? You might have the same problem. Good luck. Bruno - B4 |
#2
|
|||
|
|||
![]()
On Nov 24, 2:23*pm, Bruno wrote:
On Nov 24, 12:39*pm, jcarlyle wrote: Need some advice for stopping a drip (once per 20 seconds) from a tail tank. I'm in the same boat. *I emptied out the tank and blew air up into the line from the bottom and then filled it again and the drip was gone. I head dirt/debris move around inside the tank and figure that was not allowing the valve to close completely on my ASW-20B tail tank. *That said, anyone have any good idea how to clean out one of these tanks? You might have the same problem. Good luck. Bruno - B4 Be careful blowhards blow up tanks, Happy Thanksgiving Richard. www.craggyaero.com |
#3
|
|||
|
|||
![]()
On Wed, 24 Nov 2010 14:23:59 -0800, Bruno wrote:
I'm in the same boat. I emptied out the tank and blew air up into the line from the bottom and then filled it again and the drip was gone. I head dirt/debris move around inside the tank and figure that was not allowing the valve to close completely on my ASW-20B tail tank. That said, anyone have any good idea how to clean out one of these tanks? You might have the same problem. Have you guys seen the valve used in your tail tanks? Could the valve be held open by slipping a thin plastic rod up the drain while you flush the tank out? Your local friendly RC model shop sells a rod that would probably do the trick if the valve design is one that wouldn't be damaged by it: its the core of the plastic Bowden Cables used to connect a servo to its control surface. Its quite stiff and somewhere between 2 and 3 mm in diameter. -- martin@ | Martin Gregorie gregorie. | Essex, UK org | |
#4
|
|||
|
|||
![]()
Martin - keeping the valve open is easy, I just use the lever in the
cockpit. Filling pressure is limited to a 1 meter head, but maybe filling and dumping repeatedly will clear out anything in there. The funnel has a fine mesh, so it's hard to see how junk could have gotten inside the tank. Bruno, Evan - unlike your tanks, my tank is plastic, so no oxide worries. Getting it out is a little involved, but the maintenance manual has clear instructions. That's a last resort, though. Sounds like you may have no options, though, Bruno. I'll check the cable tension leading to the valve this weekend. If it's tight in the closed position, I bet the drip is due to cold weather. Meanwhile, anyone have any ideas on how to apply Vaseline to a valve seat located some distance up an 8 mm tube? -John |
#5
|
|||
|
|||
![]() I'll check the cable tension leading to the valve this weekend. If it's tight in the closed position, I bet the drip is due to cold weather. Meanwhile, anyone have any ideas on how to apply Vaseline to a valve seat located some distance up an 8 mm tube? -John Know any pilots who are gynecologists? |
#6
|
|||
|
|||
![]() Meanwhile, anyone have any ideas on how to apply Vaseline to a valve seat located some distance up an 8 mm tube? Know any pilots who are gynecologists? How about a syringe thing that is used to give babies an oral dose of liquid medication? Hot glue a small stir stick or small tube of some type, and it should be able to get up there to the source. I also might make a suggestion to use air tool O-ring grease. It is a long chain grease that acts almost like it has long fibers in it. It should stay around much longer than Vaseline. -- Jim in NC |
#7
|
|||
|
|||
![]()
Jim,
I'm not familiar with the syringe you speak of. It would have to be small in both diameter and length to work, as the tube is only 0.375 inches inside diameter and is probably 12 inches long (and turns 90 degrees, too). I was thinking more along the lines of a cut down Q-tip bonded to the end of a wire. I'm also not familiar with air tool O-ring grease. I'll talk to a mechanic friend about getting some. Thanks for the idea. -John On Nov 25, 4:49 pm, "Morgans" wrote: How about a syringe thing that is used to give babies an oral dose of liquid medication? Hot glue a small stir stick or small tube of some type, and it should be able to get up there to the source. I also might make a suggestion to use air tool O-ring grease. It is a long chain grease that acts almost like it has long fibers in it. It should stay around much longer than Vaseline. -- Jim in NC |
#8
|
|||
|
|||
![]() "jcarlyle" wrote Jim, I'm not familiar with the syringe you speak of. It would have to be small in both diameter and length to work, as the tube is only 0.375 inches inside diameter and is probably 12 inches long (and turns 90 degrees, too). I was thinking more along the lines of a cut down Q-tip bonded to the end of a wire. I'm also not familiar with air tool O-ring grease. I'll talk to a mechanic friend about getting some. Thanks for the idea. Go to the drug store, and ask for devices for giving a baby liquid medicine. There probably are a few different things there hanging together for doing that. The syringe diameter is not important. The only thing being stuck into the tube would be a small diameter tube stuck onto the syringe. Find something for that, that is flexible enough to go up your tube. Fish tank air hose, small engine gas line, medical IV tubing, medical tubing for oxygen, all come to mind as possibilities. -- Jim in NC |
#9
|
|||
|
|||
![]()
On Nov 24, 9:47*pm, jcarlyle wrote:
Martin - keeping the valve open is easy, I just use the lever in the cockpit. Filling pressure is limited to a 1 meter head, but maybe filling and dumping repeatedly will clear out anything in there. The funnel has a fine mesh, so it's hard to see how junk could have gotten inside the tank. Bruno, Evan - unlike your tanks, my tank is plastic, so no oxide worries. Getting it out is a little involved, but the maintenance manual has clear instructions. That's a last resort, though. Sounds like you may have no options, though, Bruno. I'll check the cable tension leading to the valve this weekend. If it's tight in the closed position, I bet the drip is due to cold weather. Meanwhile, anyone have any ideas on how to apply Vaseline to a valve seat located some distance up an 8 mm tube? -John Hi John, I have the same problem and I believe we have the same exact tail tank. My temporary solution involves a foam ear plug stuff into the tail tube. Suprisingly, it stays put, yet the head from the tank is enough to eject it when the valve is opened. Since I'm always within the aft CG limit, there's no safety risk if it doesn't drain (except for cold weather, and I fly dry when it's close to freezing). But, I'm planning to pull the tank this winter and do a proper inspection and adjustment/repair as needed. P3 |
#10
|
|||
|
|||
![]()
Hi, Erik,
That's a very ingenious temporary solution! I would've never thought of that trick. Your glider and mine are pretty similar in age. I wonder if the drip problem is something that strikes LS8s with the 5.5 liter tail tank over a certain age. I think the LS6 used a similar tank - any LS6 owners experiencing something similar? Good luck with the rework, Erik. If you think of it, take some pictures of the valve to document the problem. -John On Nov 25, 10:28 am, Papa3 wrote: Hi John, I have the same problem and I believe we have the same exact tail tank. My temporary solution involves a foam ear plug stuff into the tail tube. Suprisingly, it stays put, yet the head from the tank is enough to eject it when the valve is opened. Since I'm always within the aft CG limit, there's no safety risk if it doesn't drain (except for cold weather, and I fly dry when it's close to freezing). But, I'm planning to pull the tank this winter and do a proper inspection and adjustment/repair as needed. P3 |
|
Thread Tools | |
Display Modes | |
|
|
![]() |
||||
Thread | Thread Starter | Forum | Replies | Last Post |
Pawnee fuel tank vent drip | Mike McCarron[_2_] | Soaring | 1 | November 3rd 08 01:56 AM |
LS6-b tail tank leak fix | kirk.stant | Soaring | 2 | August 19th 08 01:39 AM |
Saturn V S-IC-T (static test stage) fuel tank assembly is mated to the liquid oxygen (LOX) tank 6416666.jpg | [email protected] | Aviation Photos | 0 | April 12th 07 01:33 AM |
Ventus B tail tank add on | Cliff Hilty | Soaring | 1 | October 7th 04 03:53 PM |
ASW20 tail tank mod | goneill | Soaring | 4 | February 21st 04 06:16 PM |