Worn Cobra rear-door hinges (both pin and hole)

On Dec 18, 8:07*pm, Steve Koerner wrote:
Joe -- making some kits sounds like a great idea. *Please make one for
YO so he doesn't try to stick a bushing in that aluminum channel.

For a long time I had intended to do a write-up on this mod but I
never got to it. *I wish I had. *I didn't locate any pictures but I
did locate my dimensioned sketch that I made at the time of
fabrication. *From the date on the page,I did this in '06. *Th sketch
is crude but it should be all you need to make the block that goes
into the channel. * The block is 1.00" X .74" X 4.00". *It has 3 M8
tapped holes in the bottom and the reamed .501" hole in the side. *I
suppose there is the possibility that the skids are located at
different longitudinal locations on various trailers -- so that would
need to be checked first. *It looks like I didn't make any sketch of
the part that goes on the door -- I'm thinking it was just an obvious
duplication of the existing part there but with the .500" steel pin in
place of the aluminum metric size pin.

If anyone makes one of these, you should put some grease on the pin or
in the hole when you put it together.

I have posted the sketch hehttp://www.box.com/shared/3ul281v6y0aek31gmva5

Steve Koernerwww.wingrigger.com

Back to the 'why' is the rear door hinge getting all chewed up? I'm
thinking the culprit is the heavy ramp (with jack ('s). The rear door
locks the ramp in place with a bolt that extends into the door when it
is closed. I have found (and fixed) the hole in the door that holds
the ramp, to be severely elongated, why? The ramp & jack are bumping
up and down causing the elongation. This becomes a jack-hammer and the
destructive action doesn't stop with elongating the ramp to door lock.
I believe it is undoubtedly causing the door hinge galling. Recommend
a 1/16 wall, steel plate with bolt hole drilled in center, be pop-
riveted over the elongated hole. Set the new plate so it holds the
ramp & jack firmly against the floor. Then fix the hinge pins ala
Steve & Joe's recommendation.
A good winter project,
JJ

JJ, I think you are right on as to the root cause of this, I estimate
my trailer to have less
than 25k miles on it and the hole in the gate that secures the jack is
butchered from slapping around.

Almost always even after a short road trip I open my trailer top and
the gate
just falls to the ground from the securing pin bouncing loose.

"JJ Sinclair" wrote in message
:

On Dec 18, 8:07*pm, Steve Koerner wrote:
Joe -- making some kits sounds like a great idea. *Please make one for
YO so he doesn't try to stick a bushing in that aluminum channel.

For a long time I had intended to do a write-up on this mod but I
never got to it. *I wish I had. *I didn't locate any pictures but I
did locate my dimensioned sketch that I made at the time of
fabrication. *From the date on the page,I did this in '06. *Th sketch
is crude but it should be all you need to make the block that goes
into the channel. * The block is 1.00" X .74" X 4.00". *It has 3 M8
tapped holes in the bottom and the reamed .501" hole in the side. *I
suppose there is the possibility that the skids are located at
different longitudinal locations on various trailers -- so that would
need to be checked first. *It looks like I didn't make any sketch of
the part that goes on the door -- I'm thinking it was just an obvious
duplication of the existing part there but with the .500" steel pin in
place of the aluminum metric size pin.

If anyone makes one of these, you should put some grease on the pin or
in the hole when you put it together.

I have posted the sketch hehttp://www.box.com/shared/3ul281v6y0aek31gmva5

Steve Koernerwww.wingrigger.com

Back to the 'why' is the rear door hinge getting all chewed up? I'm
thinking the culprit is the heavy ramp (with jack ('s). The rear door
locks the ramp in place with a bolt that extends into the door when it
is closed. I have found (and fixed) the hole in the door that holds
the ramp, to be severely elongated, why? The ramp & jack are bumping
up and down causing the elongation. This becomes a jack-hammer and the
destructive action doesn't stop with elongating the ramp to door lock.
I believe it is undoubtedly causing the door hinge galling. Recommend
a 1/16 wall, steel plate with bolt hole drilled in center, be pop-
riveted over the elongated hole. Set the new plate so it holds the
ramp & jack firmly against the floor. Then fix the hinge pins ala
Steve & Joe's recommendation.
A good winter project,
JJ


Hmmm? What about out-of-round or out-of-balance tires? Maybe a lot of
vibration going on back there...

Just a thought....

Zero One

Tires balanced, no visible motion in rear view mirrors...
I don't think so...
Best Regards, Dave