![]() |
If this is your first visit, be sure to check out the FAQ by clicking the link above. You may have to register before you can post: click the register link above to proceed. To start viewing messages, select the forum that you want to visit from the selection below. |
|
|
Thread Tools | Display Modes |
|
#1
|
|||
|
|||
![]()
At 21:13 09 June 2013, Tony wrote:
Pulling the release before things get out of hand is pretty cheap, like I d= id on day 2. Brakes are like Goldilocks if you want to stay out of the repa= ir shop. Too weak and here comes the fence at the end of that field. Too st= rong and there's a hole in your nose after the wheels lock up. Yep simple rule of thumb. If your glider has a nosewheel then fit a brake as strong as you like. If you do not have a nosewheel, as in most single seaters fitting a strong brake is really a waste of time and money because you cannot use it. Even the "weak" brakes fitted to gliders such as the discus can only be used with care. |
#2
|
|||
|
|||
![]()
On 6/9/2013 4:02 PM, Don Johnstone wrote:
At 21:13 09 June 2013, Tony wrote: Pulling the release before things get out of hand is pretty cheap, like I did on day 2. Brakes are like Goldilocks if you want to stay out of the repair shop. Too weak and here comes the fence at the end of that field. Too strong and there's a hole in your nose after the wheels lock up. Yep simple rule of thumb. If your glider has a nosewheel then fit a brake as strong as you like. If you do not have a nosewheel, as in most single seaters fitting a strong brake is really a waste of time and money because you cannot use it. Even the "weak" brakes fitted to gliders such as the discus can only be used with care. Having once owned a tail-dragging glider with "world's best brake" I can vouch that having an "overly powerful" *and* easily modulatable brake is a wonderful combination. (It was a hydraulically-actuated drum brake on a homebuilt HP-14.) It was powerful enough to put the plane on its nose, while simultaneously sufficiently modulatable as to (easily) permit braking heavy enough to lift the tail without pitching onto the nose. Combined with world's most powerful landing flaps, the plane was a joy to land, despite its Vee tail-feathers and veering into crosswind tendencies (in which case I generally angled into the wind as much as practicable, touched down with minimal safe energy and fell more in love with large deflection flaps and the superb wheel brake)... Bob W. |
#3
|
|||
|
|||
![]()
On Sun, 09 Jun 2013 16:44:23 -0600, BobW
wrote: [snip] Having once owned a tail-dragging glider with "world's best brake" I can vouch that having an "overly powerful" *and* easily modulatable brake is a wonderful combination. (It was a hydraulically-actuated drum brake on a homebuilt HP-14.) +1 on "easily modulatable". My first glass bird had a drum actuated by a motorcycle squeeze grip on the stick, and its cable was pitifully stretchy...by the time I got to a very moderate brake application, the handle would hit the stick and stop. I finally found it was identical to the one sold for the CLUTCH linkage on a 125cc Bultaco motorcycle. I finally found a cable assembly that had larger gauge cable and a stronger housing, and it worked pretty well. Besides, if the barbed wire is coming up, putting the ship up on the nose will be OK with me, thank you very much. |
#4
|
|||
|
|||
![]()
On Sunday, June 9, 2013 4:02:31 PM UTC-6, Don Johnstone wrote:
If you do not have a nosewheel, as in most single seaters fitting a strong brake is really a waste of time and money because you cannot use it. Even the "weak" brakes fitted to gliders such as the discus can only be used with care. You can not use the breaking power you do not have, but you can modulate the extra breaking power you do have. Better a scraped nose than a busted glider. And having a nose hook also lowers the odds of having to release and use all the braking power. Having flown tail wheel gliders with too little and with too much power I prefer the one with too much braking power. Robert Mudd |
#5
|
|||
|
|||
![]()
Another element I have observed is that many pilot wait until the end of the run to try the brakes.
At that point the elevator has no authority to keep the tail down. Better to hold aft stick with braking while you still have control of the pitch, earlier in the ground roll. This allows you to keep the tail down. I know that with the ships I fly that are "tail draggers" the sooner you get rid of energy the easier the end of the ground roll. It's a different approach than most pilots seem to use but it works well. |
#6
|
|||
|
|||
![]()
SoaringXCellence wrote, On 6/9/2013 5:14 PM:
Another element I have observed is that many pilot wait until the end of the run to try the brakes. At that point the elevator has no authority to keep the tail down. Better to hold aft stick with braking while you still have control of the pitch, earlier in the ground roll. This allows you to keep the tail down. I know that with the ships I fly that are "tail draggers" the sooner you get rid of energy the easier the end of the ground roll. It's a different approach than most pilots seem to use but it works well. On my ASW 20 C, I would put the flaps in negative after touching down and hold the stick back, allowing full braking power with no chance of going up on the nose. Wait to end, the elevator wasn't very effective at holding the tail down, reducing the braking force I could apply without the nose going down - like Xcellence said. -- Eric Greenwell - Washington State, USA (change ".netto" to ".us" to email me) - "Transponders in Sailplanes - Feb/2010" also ADS-B, PCAS, Flarm http://tinyurl.com/yb3xywl |
#7
|
|||
|
|||
![]() You can not use the breaking power you do not have, but you can modulate the extra breaking power you do have. That's sure the Truth! I love the G103 hydraulic disc brake! Unfortunately, I fly a Speed Astir most of the time, which uses the same miserable Tost Kobold Wheel the LS3 and 4 use. Stretchy cables aside, I have never seen a Tost Kobold wheel that DIDN'T have cracks in the steel (iron?) brake drum portion of the wheel. The Tost BIMBO wheel is nothing more than a scaled up Kobold. Of course, I have one of those in the Janus. Vintage Brake can make the drum brakes work well (a fiend's libelle brake is very powerful (after Vintage Brake treatment), even though it's the tiny Lilliput wheel. The downside is the wait. He runs a 4 month backlog most of the time. I don't know what he can do if the drum has the cracks that are so common. |
Thread Tools | |
Display Modes | |
|
|
![]() |
||||
Thread | Thread Starter | Forum | Replies | Last Post |
cobra wheel bearings and brakes | [email protected] | Soaring | 4 | August 13th 12 11:21 PM |
OTTFUR HOOKS | Paul Moslin | Soaring | 0 | January 5th 09 08:15 PM |
Glider Wheel Brakes | [email protected] | Soaring | 20 | May 31st 08 02:42 AM |
Wheel, axles and brakes for sale. | [email protected] | Home Built | 0 | December 5th 05 02:51 PM |
BGA Tech. News, Wheel brakes. | W.J. \(Bill\) Dean \(U.K.\). | Soaring | 8 | May 31st 05 01:55 PM |