Spring prepapration advice

Agree. ACP is good stuff. They sell everything he will need from mylar to peel-n-ply, glass and excellent laminating resin. This is all aircraft grade stuff in reasonable quantity. While MGS is the best, its only available by the gallon from Aircraft Spruce. going this route, fix it once and be done.
May want to post-cure too.

But with either hobby grade epoxy or CA+kicker(quick fix), likely not a lasting fix IMO.

I've always had good luck with wax paper as the release agent. You
probably already have some in the kitchen.

On 3/11/2015 4:25 PM, wrote:
Agree. ACP is good stuff. They sell everything he will need from mylar to peel-n-ply, glass and excellent laminating resin. This is all aircraft grade stuff in reasonable quantity. While MGS is the best, its only available by the gallon from Aircraft Spruce. going this route, fix it once and be done.
May want to post-cure too.

But with either hobby grade epoxy or CA+kicker(quick fix), likely not a lasting fix IMO.

--
Dan Marotta

On Wednesday, March 11, 2015 at 8:51:33 PM UTC-4, Dan Marotta wrote:
I've always had good luck with wax paper as the release agent.* You
probably already have some in the kitchen.

Perfect for making finishing harder. Use the plastic wrap next to the wax paper instead.
UH

On Thu, 12 Mar 2015 04:39:19 -0700, unclhank wrote:

On Wednesday, March 11, 2015 at 8:51:33 PM UTC-4, Dan Marotta wrote:
I've always had good luck with wax paper as the release agent.Â* You
probably already have some in the kitchen.

Perfect for making finishing harder. Use the plastic wrap next to the
wax paper instead.
UH

Beeswax furniture polish is also good: its my favourite release agent if
I'm laying up small items on moulds made from car body filler. A couple
of coats, applied fairly liberally and rubbed down when works for me.

A single coat of the John Lewis Partnership beeswax polish (a thick
paste) applied to a scrap piece of bare, unvarnished, veneered shelving
and allowed to dry before I laid up a couple of layers of glasscloth
wetted out with SP113 directly on the polish was enough to cause an
immediate release after the epoxy had hardened. I stuck a knife blade
under one edge and the whole test patch, about 50mm x 50mm, popped right
off the wood.

As always, try any release agent on some scrap material before using it
for the real job. This advice probably applies in spades to furniture
polish: I always use the John Lewis Partnership beeswax polish but I can
well imagine that other brands may give different results.


--
martin@ | Martin Gregorie
gregorie. | Essex, UK
org |

On Wed, 11 Mar 2015 15:25:24 -0700, dbraun800 wrote:


But with either hobby grade epoxy or CA+kicker(quick fix), likely not a
lasting fix IMO.

Some hobby laminating epoxys may be junk but I've always had good results
with Z-poxy and SP113. I don't remember which one I used for my gear
doors but for sure it was one of those: probably the SP113 because the
repaired area is pale coloured. Z-poxy tends to be amber coloured while
SP113 is water-white.

That repair was done in winter 2006/7. The doors still looked great when
I checked them during the glider's annual inspection on the 2nd of this
month.


--
martin@ | Martin Gregorie
gregorie. | Essex, UK
org |