K2 vs. StarkPower LiFePo4 batteries

"So the next consideration is switching in flight. Same concerns apply..."

Yikes, I switched from 2 lead acids to 2 LFPs, and I seriously doubt I have low voltage drop diodes in there. Is this like a Schottky Diode? https://www.sparkfun.com/products/10926. I take it the BMS or whatever it's called in the K2s doesn't manage this. Thanks for the heads up Evan.

On Tuesday, April 14, 2015 at 9:16:30 PM UTC-4, Clay wrote:
"So the next consideration is switching in flight. Same concerns apply...."

Yikes, I switched from 2 lead acids to 2 LFPs, and I seriously doubt I have low voltage drop diodes in there. Is this like a Schottky Diode? https://www.sparkfun.com/products/10926. I take it the BMS or whatever it's called in the K2s doesn't manage this. Thanks for the heads up Evan.

You want to use components rated for more than one amp :-), but right idea. I don't have specific recommendations, but troll the Mouser(.com) catalog or equivalent.

Trying to get good data on what these bms boards do is tough (or was, last I looked). But most will source quite a bit of current. DC doesn't switch worth a crap either... interrupting a high current DC load is *really* hard on switch contacts and best avoided.

-Evan / T8

"DC doesn't switch worth a crap either... interrupting a high current DC load is *really* hard on switch contacts and best avoided."

Better to get rid of switch entirely and just install a diode for each battery?

On Wednesday, April 15, 2015 at 1:03:37 PM UTC-4, Clay wrote:
"DC doesn't switch worth a crap either... interrupting a high current DC load is *really* hard on switch contacts and best avoided."

Better to get rid of switch entirely and just install a diode for each battery?

With diodes on each master circuit, you prevent back-feeding the discharged battery and the high current problem goes away. Keep the switches.

best,
Evan