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second PowerFlarm antenna



 
 
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  #1  
Old November 1st 15, 12:48 PM posted to rec.aviation.soaring
Andrzej Kobus
external usenet poster
 
Posts: 585
Default second PowerFlarm antenna

On Sunday, November 1, 2015 at 1:10:20 AM UTC-5, bumper wrote:
On Saturday, October 31, 2015 at 12:32:19 PM UTC-7, wrote:

The antenna referenced by Bumper has some data.
The specified VSWR of 1.2 at 1030 to 1090 MHZ looks very good.
But you need to know the VSWR at 916MHz.


3U


Don, at Delta Pop, was willing to work with me and provided a low drag transponder antenna with no male mounting screw thread. My idea being to use his antenna with threaded female mounting holes to which I'll add frangible brass thread. (Frangible in that the threaded rod will be grooved to more easily break proud of the antenna base. This will make the antenna "break away" so, if I get the theaded studs right, no damage will be done to glider or antenna in a trailer bonking incident. The broken threaded rod would then be easily removed, replaced and the antenna re-mounted. This project is on my middle burner.

With a reasonable amount of interest, Don may be willing to make his antenna centered on 915 Mhz - and with frangible mount if desired. Note that the antenna base is flat, and for mounting on most modern gliders will need to be mounted temporarily with cling wrap or other release agent so base gaps can be caulked with white silicone* or white epoxy putty (A-B, kind used for pool/boat repair), then removed and re-installed. Hole for coax fitting also slightly enlarged to facilitate break-away function with minimal risk of damage.

*silicone caulk smooths in nicely with wet finger.


Bumper, silicone is something you do not want to use on a glider for this purpose. If you ever need repainting or repair, it is next to impossible to get proper paint adhesion to an area where silicone was previously applied. Silicone is next to impossible to remove completely. 3M has multiple polyurethane based product that are much more expensive but do not cause this problem and produce equal or better results.


Andrzej
  #2  
Old November 1st 15, 03:16 PM posted to rec.aviation.soaring
Martin Gregorie[_5_]
external usenet poster
 
Posts: 1,224
Default second PowerFlarm antenna

On Sun, 01 Nov 2015 04:48:24 -0800, Andrzej Kobus wrote:

On Sunday, November 1, 2015 at 1:10:20 AM UTC-5, bumper wrote:
On Saturday, October 31, 2015 at 12:32:19 PM UTC-7,
wrote:

The antenna referenced by Bumper has some data.
The specified VSWR of 1.2 at 1030 to 1090 MHZ looks very good.
But you need to know the VSWR at 916MHz.


3U


Don, at Delta Pop, was willing to work with me and provided a low drag
transponder antenna with no male mounting screw thread. My idea being
to use his antenna with threaded female mounting holes to which I'll
add frangible brass thread. (Frangible in that the threaded rod will be
grooved to more easily break proud of the antenna base. This will make
the antenna "break away" so, if I get the theaded studs right, no
damage will be done to glider or antenna in a trailer bonking incident.
The broken threaded rod would then be easily removed, replaced and the
antenna re-mounted. This project is on my middle burner.

With a reasonable amount of interest, Don may be willing to make his
antenna centered on 915 Mhz - and with frangible mount if desired. Note
that the antenna base is flat, and for mounting on most modern gliders
will need to be mounted temporarily with cling wrap or other release
agent so base gaps can be caulked with white silicone* or white epoxy
putty (A-B, kind used for pool/boat repair), then removed and
re-installed. Hole for coax fitting also slightly enlarged to
facilitate break-away function with minimal risk of damage.

*silicone caulk smooths in nicely with wet finger.


Bumper, silicone is something you do not want to use on a glider for
this purpose. If you ever need repainting or repair, it is next to
impossible to get proper paint adhesion to an area where silicone was
previously applied. Silicone is next to impossible to remove completely.
3M has multiple polyurethane based product that are much more expensive
but do not cause this problem and produce equal or better results.

How about 24 hour epoxy glue thickened with microballoons to get a putty-
like consistency? That should be compatible with a glider airframe and is
a pretty standard and durable filler used in the model flying world for
gap filling and making fillets.


--
martin@ | Martin Gregorie
gregorie. | Essex, UK
org |
  #3  
Old November 1st 15, 07:43 PM posted to rec.aviation.soaring
Benedict Smith
external usenet poster
 
Posts: 30
Default second PowerFlarm antenna

At 12:48 01 November 2015, Andrzej Kobus wrote:
On Sunday, November 1, 2015 at 1:10:20 AM UTC-5, bumper wrote:
On Saturday, October 31, 2015 at 12:32:19 PM UTC-7,


w=
Note that
th=
e antenna base is flat, and for mounting on most modern gliders will need
t=
o be mounted temporarily with cling wrap or other release agent so base
gap=
s can be caulked with white silicone* or white epoxy putty (A-B, kind

used
=
for pool/boat repair), then removed and re-installed. Hole for coax
fitting=
also slightly enlarged to facilitate break-away function with minimal
risk=
of damage.
=20
*silicone caulk smooths in nicely with wet finger.


Bumper, silicone is something you do not want to use on a glider for this
p=
urpose. If you ever need repainting or repair, it is next to impossible

to
=
get proper paint adhesion to an area where silicone was previously
applied.=
Silicone is next to impossible to remove completely. 3M has multiple
polyu=
rethane based product that are much more expensive but do not cause this
pr=
oblem and produce equal or better results.


Andrzej

I think that the use of silicone calk in this way should be fine, the
original
poster said to cover the fuselage with cling wrap (cling film in the UK) or

similar during the application, the calk would only be in contact with the

glider once it was set, this should not cause the kind of problems you can
get
with silicone polish or grease.
Ben.
NB it would probably be better to use electronic grade sealant such as Dow

Corning 744 as the household / bathroom types contain acetic acid and can
corrode any metal parts.

 




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