Wedekind Sleeve Source?

Le dimanche 6 mars 2016 16:27:13 UTC+1, a écrit*:
On Wednesday, March 2, 2016 at 7:06:17 PM UTC-5, ZP wrote:
Kevin, checking in to see if you ever installed them. This is still something I'm considering.

Thanks.
-Dirk

Not yet. I got the parts and looked over everything carefully, but my IA has been tied up working on a power plane that has been rode hard and put up wet.

In looking things over, I have decided to do the Wedikind Sleeves on the ailerons, and will do the Unreling on the dive brakes. The Ailerons are easier on the DG-400, they unscrew, where the dive brakes are riveted and GLUED, making it very difficult if not impossible to get them apart without damage.


The glue is Araldit. If you heat it up to around 100°C, it will come apart easily.

On Monday, March 7, 2016 at 2:04:59 AM UTC-5, Tango Whisky wrote:
Le dimanche 6 mars 2016 16:27:13 UTC+1, a écrit*:
On Wednesday, March 2, 2016 at 7:06:17 PM UTC-5, ZP wrote:
Kevin, checking in to see if you ever installed them. This is still something I'm considering.

Thanks.
-Dirk

Not yet. I got the parts and looked over everything carefully, but my IA has been tied up working on a power plane that has been rode hard and put up wet.

In looking things over, I have decided to do the Wedikind Sleeves on the ailerons, and will do the Unreling on the dive brakes. The Ailerons are easier on the DG-400, they unscrew, where the dive brakes are riveted and GLUED, making it very difficult if not impossible to get them apart without damage.


The glue is Araldit. If you heat it up to around 100°C, it will come apart easily.

I went on their web site, but several glues. Any idea which one?

Also, is there any concern with changing temper on the aluminum push rods when heating?

Kevin

Kevin, I have the set-up you describe on my 400: Wedekind sleeves on ailerons, and the plastic sleeves on dive brakes. I got the safety sleeves from Pacific Aerosport. This works very well for me, and I wouldn't bother installing Wedekinds on the dive brakes.

On Monday, March 7, 2016 at 10:11:53 PM UTC-5, Paul Villinski wrote:
Kevin, I have the set-up you describe on my 400: Wedekind sleeves on ailerons, and the plastic sleeves on dive brakes. I got the safety sleeves from Pacific Aerosport. This works very well for me, and I wouldn't bother installing Wedekinds on the dive brakes.

Thanks Paul,

I was originally going to do them all, but as you know the dive brakes are more complicated, and I had decided to go the way you suggest.
I ordered the sleeves from DG direct and they were not packed well and destroyed upon arrival. They refunded me, and I will order from Pacific Aerosport now.

Thanks for the conformation on going this way.

Kevin
92

I thought WD-40 was kerosene and perfume. It is a not a very good lubricant, it is great at displacing water.

I thought WD-40 was kerosene and perfume. It is a not a very good
lubricant, it is great at displacing water.


You gotta love the internet...source of all the world's answers, some of them
even correct.

Some years ago I heard an interview of the then CEO of the creating company of
WD-40. His version pretty much matched what you'll find at:

http://brokensecrets.com/2010/06/11/...ents-and-uses/

though he was more explicit when explaining that to "protect the Atlas missile
from corrosion" meant its many, external, electrical connectors. Basically, it
was intended originally to discourage (by displacement if necessary) water
from those entering into those connectors while the missiles sat on the
launching pad, often for extended periods of time. Sadly, he didn't comment on
the source of the wonderful (IMHO!) scent...

Having occasionally used it when messing with sailplanes, makes the above
information - worth every cent you paid for it - acceptable content for this
newsgroup.

Bob - auto-connecting since 1981 - W.

On Tuesday, March 8, 2016 at 11:59:33 AM UTC-5, BobW wrote:
I thought WD-40 was kerosene and perfume. It is a not a very good
lubricant, it is great at displacing water.


You gotta love the internet...source of all the world's answers, some of them
even correct.

Some years ago I heard an interview of the then CEO of the creating company of
WD-40. His version pretty much matched what you'll find at:

http://brokensecrets.com/2010/06/11/...ents-and-uses/

though he was more explicit when explaining that to "protect the Atlas missile
from corrosion" meant its many, external, electrical connectors. Basically, it
was intended originally to discourage (by displacement if necessary) water
from those entering into those connectors while the missiles sat on the
launching pad, often for extended periods of time. Sadly, he didn't comment on
the source of the wonderful (IMHO!) scent...

Having occasionally used it when messing with sailplanes, makes the above
information - worth every cent you paid for it - acceptable content for this
newsgroup.

Bob - auto-connecting since 1981 - W.

Dang, I thought I could sell that fish story :-).

Glad you enjoyed your chuckle, but don't use that garbage on an airplane!

best,
Evan

On Monday, March 7, 2016 at 8:52:57 PM UTC-5, wrote:
On Monday, March 7, 2016 at 2:04:59 AM UTC-5, Tango Whisky wrote:
Le dimanche 6 mars 2016 16:27:13 UTC+1, a écrit*:
On Wednesday, March 2, 2016 at 7:06:17 PM UTC-5, ZP wrote:
Kevin, checking in to see if you ever installed them. This is still something I'm considering.

Thanks.
-Dirk

Not yet. I got the parts and looked over everything carefully, but my IA has been tied up working on a power plane that has been rode hard and put up wet.

In looking things over, I have decided to do the Wedikind Sleeves on the ailerons, and will do the Unreling on the dive brakes. The Ailerons are easier on the DG-400, they unscrew, where the dive brakes are riveted and GLUED, making it very difficult if not impossible to get them apart without damage.


The glue is Araldit. If you heat it up to around 100°C, it will come apart easily.

I went on their web site, but several glues. Any idea which one?

Also, is there any concern with changing temper on the aluminum push rods when heating?

Kevin

If you're heating enough to change the temper, you're also cooking the glue and making really "not nice" colors/smells. Likely 100*C is short of changing the color of the paint (in short duration).
Best bet is to use a really good hobby heat gun, or a "middling" industrial heat gun.
No torches needed.......

Good advise from JJ, on one occasion when I had my Std Cirrus one control
connection jammed half way on a ball end when assembling, it would not go
fully on and it wouldn’t come off, may have been a foreign matter, dust
etc contaminating it, operating the control while applying pressure got it
off.
So I started to cleaned each ball end then lubricate with thin oil (WD40)
spray the oil on a finger then apply to the ball end before assembly, never
had any problem after that.


At 03:26 08 March 2016, Charlie M. UH & 002 owner/pilot wrote:
On Monday, March 7, 2016 at 8:52:57 PM UTC-5, wrote:
On Monday, March 7, 2016 at 2:04:59 AM UTC-5, Tango Whisky wrote:
Le dimanche 6 mars 2016 16:27:13 UTC+1, a
=E9crit=A0:
On Wednesday, March 2, 2016 at 7:06:17 PM UTC-5, ZP wrote:
Kevin, checking in to see if you ever installed them. This is
stil=
l something I'm considering.
=20
Thanks.
-Dirk
=20
Not yet. I got the parts and looked over everything carefully, but
m=
y IA has been tied up working on a power plane that has been rode hard
and=
put up wet. =20
=20
In looking things over, I have decided to do the Wedikind Sleeves
on
=
the ailerons, and will do the Unreling on the dive brakes. The Ailerons
ar=
e easier on the DG-400, they unscrew, where the dive brakes are riveted
and=
GLUED, making it very difficult if not impossible to get them apart
withou=
t damage.
=20
=20
The glue is Araldit. If you heat it up to around 100=B0C, it will
come
=
apart easily.
=20
I went on their web site, but several glues. Any idea which one?
=20
Also, is there any concern with changing temper on the aluminum push
rods=
when heating?
=20
Kevin

If you're heating enough to change the temper, you're also cooking the
glue=
and making really "not nice" colors/smells. Likely 100*C is short of
chang=
ing the color of the paint (in short duration).
Best bet is to use a really good hobby heat gun, or a "middling"
industrial=
heat gun.
No torches needed.......

On Tuesday, March 8, 2016 at 5:17:58 AM UTC-5, Vernon Brown wrote:

So I started to cleaned each ball end then lubricate with thin oil (WD40)

Way off track, but may I drop a tip here?

Vernon: WD-40 is fish oil. It's a great water dispersant (the "WD" in WD-40), but it has lousy oxidation stability and gets gummy. Use Break Free CLP.

best,

Evan Ludeman