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Wedekind Sleeve Source?



 
 
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  #1  
Old March 8th 16, 03:26 AM posted to rec.aviation.soaring
Charlie M. (UH & 002 owner/pilot)
external usenet poster
 
Posts: 1,383
Default Wedekind Sleeve Source?

On Monday, March 7, 2016 at 8:52:57 PM UTC-5, wrote:
On Monday, March 7, 2016 at 2:04:59 AM UTC-5, Tango Whisky wrote:
Le dimanche 6 mars 2016 16:27:13 UTC+1, a écrit*:
On Wednesday, March 2, 2016 at 7:06:17 PM UTC-5, ZP wrote:
Kevin, checking in to see if you ever installed them. This is still something I'm considering.

Thanks.
-Dirk

Not yet. I got the parts and looked over everything carefully, but my IA has been tied up working on a power plane that has been rode hard and put up wet.

In looking things over, I have decided to do the Wedikind Sleeves on the ailerons, and will do the Unreling on the dive brakes. The Ailerons are easier on the DG-400, they unscrew, where the dive brakes are riveted and GLUED, making it very difficult if not impossible to get them apart without damage.


The glue is Araldit. If you heat it up to around 100°C, it will come apart easily.


I went on their web site, but several glues. Any idea which one?

Also, is there any concern with changing temper on the aluminum push rods when heating?

Kevin


If you're heating enough to change the temper, you're also cooking the glue and making really "not nice" colors/smells. Likely 100*C is short of changing the color of the paint (in short duration).
Best bet is to use a really good hobby heat gun, or a "middling" industrial heat gun.
No torches needed.......
  #2  
Old March 8th 16, 10:04 AM posted to rec.aviation.soaring
Vernon Brown
external usenet poster
 
Posts: 18
Default Wedekind Sleeve Source?

Good advise from JJ, on one occasion when I had my Std Cirrus one control
connection jammed half way on a ball end when assembling, it would not go
fully on and it wouldn’t come off, may have been a foreign matter, dust
etc contaminating it, operating the control while applying pressure got it
off.
So I started to cleaned each ball end then lubricate with thin oil (WD40)
spray the oil on a finger then apply to the ball end before assembly, never
had any problem after that.


At 03:26 08 March 2016, Charlie M. UH & 002 owner/pilot wrote:
On Monday, March 7, 2016 at 8:52:57 PM UTC-5, wrote:
On Monday, March 7, 2016 at 2:04:59 AM UTC-5, Tango Whisky wrote:
Le dimanche 6 mars 2016 16:27:13 UTC+1, a

=E9crit=A0:
On Wednesday, March 2, 2016 at 7:06:17 PM UTC-5, ZP wrote:
Kevin, checking in to see if you ever installed them. This is

stil=
l something I'm considering.
=20
Thanks.
-Dirk
=20
Not yet. I got the parts and looked over everything carefully, but

m=
y IA has been tied up working on a power plane that has been rode hard
and=
put up wet. =20
=20
In looking things over, I have decided to do the Wedikind Sleeves

on
=
the ailerons, and will do the Unreling on the dive brakes. The Ailerons
ar=
e easier on the DG-400, they unscrew, where the dive brakes are riveted
and=
GLUED, making it very difficult if not impossible to get them apart
withou=
t damage.
=20
=20
The glue is Araldit. If you heat it up to around 100=B0C, it will

come
=
apart easily.
=20
I went on their web site, but several glues. Any idea which one?
=20
Also, is there any concern with changing temper on the aluminum push

rods=
when heating?
=20
Kevin


If you're heating enough to change the temper, you're also cooking the
glue=
and making really "not nice" colors/smells. Likely 100*C is short of
chang=
ing the color of the paint (in short duration).
Best bet is to use a really good hobby heat gun, or a "middling"
industrial=
heat gun.
No torches needed.......


  #3  
Old March 8th 16, 12:26 PM posted to rec.aviation.soaring
Tango Eight
external usenet poster
 
Posts: 962
Default Wedekind Sleeve Source?

On Tuesday, March 8, 2016 at 5:17:58 AM UTC-5, Vernon Brown wrote:

So I started to cleaned each ball end then lubricate with thin oil (WD40)


Way off track, but may I drop a tip here?

Vernon: WD-40 is fish oil. It's a great water dispersant (the "WD" in WD-40), but it has lousy oxidation stability and gets gummy. Use Break Free CLP.

best,

Evan Ludeman
  #4  
Old March 8th 16, 01:50 PM posted to rec.aviation.soaring
Vernon Brown
external usenet poster
 
Posts: 18
Default Wedekind Sleeve Source?

At 12:26 08 March 2016, Tango Eight wrote:
On Tuesday, March 8, 2016 at 5:17:58 AM UTC-5, Vernon Brown wrote:

So I started to cleaned each ball end then lubricate with thin oil

(WD40)

Way off track, but may I drop a tip here?

Vernon: WD-40 is fish oil. It's a great water dispersant (the "WD" in
WD-40), but it has lousy oxidation stability and gets gummy. Use Break
Free CLP.

best,

Evan Ludeman


Thanks Evan, didn’t know WD40 was fish oil,
gumming up should not a problem if controls are cleaned before every
rigging, which I did, but useful info nerveless, which will be useful to
others.
Sold my Cirrus about 12 years ago, had an LS8/18 for a while, now I have an
LS6c 17.5 both auto connects.
Vernon

  #5  
Old March 8th 16, 02:29 PM posted to rec.aviation.soaring
Giaco
external usenet poster
 
Posts: 78
Default Wedekind Sleeve Source?

On Tuesday, March 8, 2016 at 9:00:10 AM UTC-5, Vernon Brown wrote:
At 12:26 08 March 2016, Tango Eight wrote:
On Tuesday, March 8, 2016 at 5:17:58 AM UTC-5, Vernon Brown wrote:

So I started to cleaned each ball end then lubricate with thin oil

(WD40)

Way off track, but may I drop a tip here?

Vernon: WD-40 is fish oil. It's a great water dispersant (the "WD" in
WD-40), but it has lousy oxidation stability and gets gummy. Use Break
Free CLP.

best,

Evan Ludeman


Thanks Evan, didn't know WD40 was fish oil,
gumming up should not a problem if controls are cleaned before every
rigging, which I did, but useful info nerveless, which will be useful to
others.
Sold my Cirrus about 12 years ago, had an LS8/18 for a while, now I have an
LS6c 17.5 both auto connects.
Vernon


I've always had great luck with Marvel Mystery Oil. It was the club solution for just about all spring lubing at CCSC and worked great even at super cold wave temps. FWIW
 




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