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#1
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On Friday, July 29, 2016 at 3:30:06 AM UTC-5, Colin Roney wrote:
My plan is to remove patches of algae embedded in the GRP surface before painting. So far, i`ve rubbed/cleaned down the surface as much as I can using wire brush and glasspaper. Any ideas on the most effective product to use please? West Marine sells a mildew/algae and stain remover that works. |
#2
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Chlorine Dioxide used on AC units would probably be good if it will not harm fiberglass. ALso could use UV lights used in AC units and duct work to kill mildew, mold and bacteria.
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#3
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I use "Wet and Forget" on my shingle roof, soffits, garage door, and concrete drive. Each time it rains it cleans. I've used Simple Green on aluminum camper to clean mildew and also on the rubber roof. In early '90's, the Gov bought Simple Green by the 55 gal drum. Don't use AJAX bleach alternative on fiberglass. It will dry it out. It cleans good and maybe ok if you rinse very well then paint. But I would use Simple Green.
I don't know why Cobra uses the gelcoat they do. Maybe more flexible than what boat manufactures use. But I've seen boats out in the sun twice as long as a cobra trailers and looked twice as good. Maybe glider pilots don't wax their trailers. To me, Cobra trailers look more porous than boat gelcoat and oxidize way too quick for what they cost. And I have always wondered why an Aluminum cobra trailer top is a different white than the bottom. I like Cobra trailers, but maybe because there is not much competition. But they cost way to much. I just ran across this that looks promising: http://www.biokleen.com/hull-cleaner I noticed you said glasspaper instead of sand paper so you are probably not in US where some of these products are available. Since you are going to paint and have used a wire brush, something harsh like the AjAX bleach alternative or something like toilet bowl cleaner or muriatic acid may work but I would rinse very well. People use toilet bowl cleaner, or hull cleaner, or muriatic acid on boats to remove stains. Good luck. |
#4
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On the advice of a club member I finally chose a solution of ARIEL washing
powder which contains bleach and the use of a stiff brush. At 11:19 31 July 2016, Casey wrote: I use "Wet and Forget" on my shingle roof, soffits, garage door, and concre= te drive. Each time it rains it cleans. I've used Simple Green on aluminu= m camper to clean mildew and also on the rubber roof. In early '90's, the = Gov bought Simple Green by the 55 gal drum. Don't use AJAX bleach alternat= ive on fiberglass. It will dry it out. It cleans good and maybe ok if you= rinse very well then paint. But I would use Simple Green. =20 I don't know why Cobra uses the gelcoat they do. Maybe more flexible than = what boat manufactures use. But I've seen boats out in the sun twice as lo= ng as a cobra trailers and looked twice as good. Maybe glider pilots don't= wax their trailers. To me, Cobra trailers look more porous than boat gelc= oat and oxidize way too quick for what they cost. And I have always wonder= ed why an Aluminum cobra trailer top is a different white than the bottom. = I like Cobra trailers, but maybe because there is not much competition. B= ut they cost way to much. I just ran across this that looks promising: http://www.biokleen.com/hull= -cleaner I noticed you said glasspaper instead of sand paper so you are probably not= in US where some of these products are available. Since you are going to = paint and have used a wire brush, something harsh like the AjAX bleach alte= rnative or something like toilet bowl cleaner or muriatic acid may work but= I would rinse very well. People use toilet bowl cleaner, or hull cleaner,= or muriatic acid on boats to remove stains. Good luck. |
#5
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On Monday, August 1, 2016 at 4:31:01 PM UTC-4, Colin Roney wrote:
On the advice of a club member I finally chose a solution of ARIEL washing powder which contains bleach and the use of a stiff brush. Thats probably fine for the algae and using plenty of water to rinse. I would use a self etching primer prior to painting. Then any automotive paint. 1975 trailer: https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/...1/DSC00425.JPG |
#6
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On Monday, August 1, 2016 at 4:31:01 PM UTC-4, Colin Roney wrote:
On the advice of a club member I finally chose a solution of ARIEL washing powder which contains bleach and the use of a stiff brush. Thats probably fine for the algae and using plenty of water to rinse. I would use a self etching primer prior to painting. Then any automotive paint. 1975 trailer: https://www.dropbox.com/sh/9icgfg36j...qIC_8cAVa?dl=0 |
#7
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On Monday, August 8, 2016 at 8:14:12 PM UTC-4, Casey wrote:
On Monday, August 1, 2016 at 4:31:01 PM UTC-4, Colin Roney wrote: On the advice of a club member I finally chose a solution of ARIEL washing powder which contains bleach and the use of a stiff brush. Thats probably fine for the algae and using plenty of water to rinse. I would use a self etching primer prior to painting. Then any automotive paint. 1975 trailer: https://www.dropbox.com/sh/9icgfg36j...qIC_8cAVa?dl=0 Self etching primer is used for metal but I doubt it would have any useful benefit on a composite trailer. UH |
#8
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Hi mate,
I got a very thorough briefing prior to my repaint. Once you have finished all your prep work you wash it down with water and a cream cleanser. I bought three bottles of Jiff, in Oz it's called Jiff in Europe its Ciff and it might be called Handy Andy. It basically the cleanser that you use on old baths and hand basins. What you do is use RUNNING WATER, green pot scourers wearng rubber gloves. It's imperative that you use running water whilst scrubbing otherwise there will be powder left there after it dries. You must use rubber gloves otherwise you will leave skin oil on the glass. You keep scrubbing until the water falls without breaking over the clean surface, ie it should just be one nice sheet of falling water with no bubbles or gaps. This means the surface is perfectly clean and ready for paint. It took me about two hours to do it properly and I then let it air dry. I did it once more in the shed to make sure it was ready before paining. Justin Some photos here http://members.optusnet.com.au/~jjsinclair/gallery.html Quote:
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#9
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On Tuesday, August 9, 2016 at 6:51:31 PM UTC-4, wrote:
On Monday, August 8, 2016 at 8:14:12 PM UTC-4, Casey wrote: On Monday, August 1, 2016 at 4:31:01 PM UTC-4, Colin Roney wrote: On the advice of a club member I finally chose a solution of ARIEL washing powder which contains bleach and the use of a stiff brush. Thats probably fine for the algae and using plenty of water to rinse. I would use a self etching primer prior to painting. Then any automotive paint. 1975 trailer: https://www.dropbox.com/sh/9icgfg36j...qIC_8cAVa?dl=0 Self etching primer is used for metal but I doubt it would have any useful benefit on a composite trailer. UH I agree that self etching is for metal and I'm not a painter, but the guy that painting my trailer used self etching primer before a primer filler coat. He use to paint $300k Fountain Powerboats. I may have omitting that I pressure washed the previous paint off my trailer with very high water pressure that actually took off some of the thing gelcoat. Therefore, I guess he used a self etching primer to bite the fiberglass and not necessary the gel prior to the primer filler coat. At any rate, I would think a good primer on gel would be nothing but advantageous. The most durable paint that a glider trailer could have would be marine Awlgrip, in my opinion. Auto paint was used on my trailer though. http://www.awlgrip.com/awlgrip-home.aspx |
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