Dg400 rigging tips

All the above suggestions are great.

Having everything you can in the same position each time, wing stand marked at perfect height, and same position on the wing, cradle at the same height, ......

Also the R wing first, as it sits in the back of the spar box, if you start with the left the spar wants to side back.

When inserting the left wing, as the spar is going in, you have to pull the spar initially forward a little by opening the canopy. This keeps the bushings from hitting. ( the spars are not smooth, the bushings are sticking out.) If you do not do this then you can push out the second wing quite easily. This in also one area where the fore aft alignment of the wing comes into play, because if it is off the bushings will also rub.

I don't have electric, but I have replaced the gas strut in my rigger, so I can go out to the tip and raise and lower the wing myself easily, and it will stay in that position. Your electric rigger should be great for this,. Use this method for getting the wings in, but then as others have noted, make fine adjustments by raising and lowering the cradle. I start with the cradle high, and then lower to get final alignment.

Hope this helps.

Kevin Anderson
92
DG 400 146

I have owned a 400 and 808C and would say neither was a
"simple quick" rig.
As others have said, the initial alignment is critical.
DG sell an eccentric aid (nylon/hard plastic) to prevent the first
wing being moved out of position when the second wing is
fitted; this is well worth having; near essential if you are trying
to rig single handed. Any competent machine shop/amateur
could make one to avoid paying DG prices.
You can also buy an eccentric alignment tool (Zulu Glasstek?)
which will pull the two wing together the last few millimetres to
allow the pins to be entered. Again anyone with a lathe could
make one in a few hours from steel round stock.
Without both these aids the 808C was a pain to rig.
The good thing about the 400 is that you have a Rotax engine!