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#11
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Let me first start this by saying that I have the 912S so there may
and I'm sure there are differences from the 912 other than the obvious. Now having said that the "coolant" is more for keeping the cylinder heads an even temp. The 912 is air/ oil cooled and atleast in my manual they reference oil operating temps rather than coolant temps. I have talked to quite a few people who are flying or have built the planes with the 912 and many have even left off the water radiator and went with an oil cooler only installation. I know that mine does have both and I have even installed an oil thermostat that you can get from Lockwood Aviation. I does take mine a little while to warm up but the thermostat has helped a lot and now instead of my temps being around 142-155 when flying it is closer to the bottom of the normal range (190-230). In the fall though I went as far as covering the radiators or atleast most of them to help with the warm up and to help raise the temps a little since they say to get it above 210 for a few minutes as a minimum during flight to boil out any water in the oil from condensation. I have thought about eliminating the water radiator or atleast looking for a smaller one but it is kind of nice during the summer when everyone else is complaining about overheating on climb out and I'm having no trouble at all! Hope this helps you some. Gary On 4 Apr 2005 17:31:22 -0700, "RPar" wrote: I've talked to Lockwood about the chatter. They did not seem to think it was out of the ordinary. I would feel better if I had some input from people running them though. I'll have to check the inertia spec. It was professionally made for the 912 so I assume that it is correct, but it definitely never hurts to check. I did read the installation manual and yes I do get the bulletins. My 912 had to have the oil pump drive pin and new stator assembly installed ($$$). This was performed, along with a complete inspection, prior to installation and first start-up. Thanks for your input. - RP You are asking a news group instead of an authority such as Lockwood, a certified Rotax repair station? http://www.lockwood-aviation.c**om/ OK here goes: A five (or ten!) year old 912 certainly should have been gone through before installing it on your airframe. It will need new rubber seals on the water pump as a minimum. The gear box on the 912 80 HP (black valve covers) has been very good. Not true with the 912S 100 HP engine (with the green valve cover). Rotax has added a slipper clutch and a higher torque starter for the 912S. Your problem may be related to the prop. Does it meet the inertia spec for the Rotax? Too high an inertia will eat your gear box. Have you read the installation manual at www.rotax-owner.com and signed up for service bulletins? |
#12
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I think discussion of your mother's virtue is off limits. As for the
rest of it ... ![]() Today we synched the carbs on my friends Rotax 914 and it made an incredible difference in its smoothness. I bet it will help you as well. |
#13
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I have talked to quite a few people who are flying or have
built the planes with the 912 and many have even left off the water radiator and went with an oil cooler only installation. Gary, Your mention of no coolant radiator is a bit surprising as the coolant heat rejection is 2-4 times that of the oil on a Rotax 912 or 912. There are hundreds of Rotax 91x powered aircraft around here and it is the first time I hear of dispensing with a coolant radiator.. Could you be more specific as to what type of aircraft, etc ? Thanks, Regards, Gilles Thesee Grenoble, France Rotax 914 MCR 4S with cowl flaps |
#14
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If have made best experiences with a synchronizer from www.boehm-synchrontester.de This german company is specialized in producing synchronizers for carburetors with capsule pressure gauge and zero adjustment. Scale range 0....17.7" HG. On the website ou will find many informations about the Rotax aircraft engine |
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