Top ten glider trailer features?

On Tuesday, November 26, 2013 9:51:59 PM UTC-6, shkdriver wrote:
Hello,

I am in the early stages of building a Luebke patterned clamshell trailer for my Schempp-Hirth SHK. The trailer is an aluminum sheathed steel frame 'interpretation' of the cobra and comet style trailers. I have been paying attention to every glider trailer I've been around for the last few years, with the intention of incorporating the best features. Some of these features are;



Tracks and captured wing root dollies with adjustable tension hold down

brackets for the spar root (seen in a cobra containing a ventus)



Captured aluminum ramp with fold over center track, with either hydraulic

or double screw jack height adjustment (cobra again).



Pivoting lower carriage wheels on belly support dolly (cobra).



Drop down tailgate which provides a braced repeatable height of tail end

of trailer for rigging and derigging.



Front access hatch, ventilators, spare tire access when loaded.

Good lights with some lights down the length of the trailer.



Storage space for all the ground handling gear.



So, what am I missing or forgetting? Does anyone have any comments on favorite features or also, features which should be avoided at all costs? I want to eliminate those unforeseeable miserable items which pinch fingers, rash gliders, and detract from the chore of rigging and trailering a glider. I would also like to have a system which uses the least amount of loose gear lying about.



Thanks,

Scott W.

N-1521

My factory PIK trailer was excellent but still spent a lot of time eliminating every slowdown. I installed various quick release pins with lanyards so "in and out" are instantaneous. Using tools, or thumb screws or wingnuts is too slow. The back door ramp is good but building a 3rd rail for the tailwheel even better. A screw jack helped solo assembly. The main disadvantage to a back door ramp is the nose of the glider may end up too close to the trailer so you can't walk around the nose, and must walk all the way around wings and tail to get to the other side.
Where I had to kneel in the back, dense foam was permanently applied. A soft covering glued to a sharp edge helps everywhere. Once those details were done the psychological aversion to assembly and disassembly disappeared.

On Tuesday, November 26, 2013 9:51:59 PM UTC-6, shkdriver wrote:
Hello,

I am in the early stages of building a Luebke patterned clamshell trailer for my Schempp-Hirth SHK. The trailer is an aluminum sheathed steel frame 'interpretation' of the cobra and comet style trailers. I have been paying attention to every glider trailer I've been around for the last few years, with the intention of incorporating the best features. Some of these features are;



Tracks and captured wing root dollies with adjustable tension hold down

brackets for the spar root (seen in a cobra containing a ventus)



Captured aluminum ramp with fold over center track, with either hydraulic

or double screw jack height adjustment (cobra again).



Pivoting lower carriage wheels on belly support dolly (cobra).



Drop down tailgate which provides a braced repeatable height of tail end

of trailer for rigging and derigging.



Front access hatch, ventilators, spare tire access when loaded.

Good lights with some lights down the length of the trailer.



Storage space for all the ground handling gear.



So, what am I missing or forgetting? Does anyone have any comments on favorite features or also, features which should be avoided at all costs? I want to eliminate those unforeseeable miserable items which pinch fingers, rash gliders, and detract from the chore of rigging and trailering a glider. I would also like to have a system which uses the least amount of loose gear lying about.



Thanks,

Scott W.

N-1521

I want to Thank everyone who took the time to contribute Their thoughts and ideas. I look forward to implementing many of them.

Thanks Again,
Scott W.
N-1521

One more thought. The most common problem with any trailer is the lights. They get a little corrosion on their contacts and don't work. Then you have to unscrew the lens and clean them up with steel wool or something. Someone already mentioned using LEDs. I suggest soldering in bright LEDs (with appropriate limiting resistor) instead of bulbs. This will last for many years!

Torsion axel mounted on rails so the axel can be moved forward or aft. Later you may have more weight forward or aft and moving the axel and inch or two will balance it out having proper weight forward. Also you may move to a location that has a higher driveway and moving the axel back will help eliminate bottoming out. New torsion axels also have the EZ lube. I have switched over every and all trailers I have to synthetic grease. I have a boat so it makes it easier to have one type grease for all trailers, however I also think it is superior and less messy. A shot a grease every year and never will need to replace the bearings.

Sealed lights used on boat trailers with only one connection point that connects lights from front/back and sides with di-electric grease.

Don't reinvent - just make a current model better.