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#31
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I have a 20'x20' shop that I am remodeling and am seeking suggestions
for an optimum layout for building. Currently it is wired basically, and I know I (read electrician) will adding a plurality of shop lights and higher voltage outlets. Other than that, what else should I consider? Here are lessons I learned from converting a 2 car garage to a shop * Have plenty of room for storing completed assemblies, and parts in process. Learned this the hard way. * Make sure your work bench is a work bench, and never a storage bench. * In addition to a wall work bench, you'll want a center of the room work bench. * You want to be able to clamp things to the edge of your work bench. I don't have this on the wall benches. * There are bunches of things you want accessible at your work bench, or extremely close. For me, those things are drill bits, dimple dies, chuck keys, scothbrite, files, brushes (for cleaning work, tools, and the bench), and also hearing, eye, and dust protection. I recently added a screwdriver rack (not that I use them on aluminum projects), but the first items are the most important. * Use oven liner pans so that your various liquids don't drip onto things below * I've got a ton of plastic shelving from the home supply store. Really helps clean the place up. * Make the shop visually attractive. I hung some airplane pictures, painted the walls and floors, and the epoxy floors are very easy to clean. Doing the floors was a pain and I did a lousy job, so make sure you've got great instructions on every step. * I also have one corner of the shop that has back issues of magazines, how to books, catalogs, all that, along with an old easy chair. * Have great ventilation, both to keep cool and also to get fumes out. I'm still working on this part. * Make sure you have a good supply of scrap wood and scrap aluminum. * Have the shop vac handy at all times. It's real easy to keep a spotless shop spotless, but it's hard to keep a pretty clean shop from turning into a mess. * Segregate the airplane stuff from the household stuff. Household stuff can quickly turn your shop into a real mess. * I really like having plastic, multi-bin containers for holding related small tools. * Time spent getting your shop in shape will pay itself back very quickly. Enjoy! Ed Wischmeyer |
#32
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John Ammeter wrote in message . ..
I've run copper pipe through my shop. We're building a new home and shop and I plan to run 3/4" copper throughout the shop. I might even run a line to the house since I'll have a hobby room there, too. John: Something to consider......If you decide to make a run to the house, lay in some large plastic conduit and run the air line inside using bulk 1" airhose with the regulator in the hobby room. At the same time, run you a Cat 5 or fiber link and a couple of pair phone cable and a couple of pairs of low voltage lines plus a pull line. Then you can rig a low voltage compressor control from the hobby room as well as a powered on/off valve for the air run to the house. You can also use one of the low voltage pairs to control an external light if the shop is any distance from the house. The Cat 5 and the phone lines are a bonus if you decide to put a computer out there and if you want phone extension in the shop. The extra bucks upfront won't be too bad compared going back and adding things in after construction is done. Craig C. |
#33
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#34
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I am obviously getting into this subject late in the discussion, but
John has nailed it. Copper pipe is the easiest and least expensive way to plumb for compressed air. My only caveat is that when I did my first shop that way I used standard tin/lead solder. My system was not pressurized all the time so there was a lot of expansion and contraction. This worked the solar joints just enough that some very minor leaks developed. I removed and re-did the joints using flux-less silver solder. Never had a joint leak since. (have a copper solar panel that I built using this flux-less silver solder. Over 200 joints and after 6 years, still no leaks.) John Ammeter wrote: On Fri, 02 Jul 2004 21:52:52 -0700, Richard Riley wrote: On Sat, 3 Jul 2004 00:46:48 -0400, "Morgans" wrote: : :"Roger Halstead" wrote : : : Eventually I plan on building a sound proofed enclosure around the : compressor. Galvanized pipe for air lines around the inside of the : shop instead of having to pull a hose around. : : Roger Halstead Not galvanized pipe. It is illegal to use as gas pipe, :cause the plate can flake off, and plug stuff up. It could be bad for your ower tools. So what's legal? Last year I spent a day running galvi parallel to the PVC that was there before, because I was being told it could blow out. I've run copper pipe through my shop. We're building a new home and shop and I plan to run 3/4" copper throughout the shop. I might even run a line to the house since I'll have a hobby room there, too. John -- Bruce A. Frank, Editor "Ford 3.8/4.2L Engine and V-6 STOL Homebuilt Aircraft Newsletter" | Publishing interesting material| | on all aspects of alternative | | engines and homebuilt aircraft.| *------------------------------**----* \(-o-)/ AIRCRAFT PROJECTS CO. \___/ Manufacturing parts & pieces / \ for homebuilt aircraft, 0 0 TIG welding While trying to find the time to finish mine. |
#35
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My thought process in running too far ahead...that's "solder joints" not
"solar joints." "Bruce A. Frank" wrote: I am obviously getting into this subject late in the discussion, but John has nailed it. Copper pipe is the easiest and least expensive way to plumb for compressed air. My only caveat is that when I did my first shop that way I used standard tin/lead solder. My system was not pressurized all the time so there was a lot of expansion and contraction. This worked the solar joints just enough that some very minor leaks developed. I removed and re-did the joints using flux-less silver solder. Never had a joint leak since. (have a copper solar panel that I built using this flux-less silver solder. Over 200 joints and after 6 years, still no leaks.) John Ammeter wrote: On Fri, 02 Jul 2004 21:52:52 -0700, Richard Riley wrote: On Sat, 3 Jul 2004 00:46:48 -0400, "Morgans" wrote: : :"Roger Halstead" wrote : : : Eventually I plan on building a sound proofed enclosure around the : compressor. Galvanized pipe for air lines around the inside of the : shop instead of having to pull a hose around. : : Roger Halstead Not galvanized pipe. It is illegal to use as gas pipe, :cause the plate can flake off, and plug stuff up. It could be bad for your ower tools. So what's legal? Last year I spent a day running galvi parallel to the PVC that was there before, because I was being told it could blow out. I've run copper pipe through my shop. We're building a new home and shop and I plan to run 3/4" copper throughout the shop. I might even run a line to the house since I'll have a hobby room there, too. John -- Bruce A. Frank, Editor "Ford 3.8/4.2L Engine and V-6 STOL Homebuilt Aircraft Newsletter" | Publishing interesting material| | on all aspects of alternative | | engines and homebuilt aircraft.| *------------------------------**----* \(-o-)/ AIRCRAFT PROJECTS CO. \___/ Manufacturing parts & pieces / \ for homebuilt aircraft, 0 0 TIG welding While trying to find the time to finish mine. |
#36
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I recently completed the worktop of a modified version. I'm building
a Fly Baby, so I built mine 8' x 30", with the 2x4s set in 2" from the edges to provide clamping room. I used 5/8" particleboard for the top - it was ten bucks cheaper than the 23/32 ply, and a darn sight flatter. Details at http://www.itasca.net/~corrie/homebu...log.htm#latest . One note - with two sets of doubled 2x4s running the length of it, it's heavy as all get-out. Haven't built the legs yet; it's sitting on an old worktable for now in the workroom in the basement. Still need to work out the details of how I'm going to to do the feet. My garage floor isn't level, so I need to figure a way to rig vertically-adjustable locking casters. I'll build a second one when I'm ready to lay out the full fuselage. This one will do for now as a general workbench, and for building a cockpit mockup (hat tip to Erich on the yahoo flybabylist group!) I figure I can do a lot of preliminary work in the basement before I have to move out to the garage. Corrie "Ebby" wrote in message ... I built three of the EAA 1000 tables. I made them just a bit wider for my Hatz airframe. They are very functional and moving them into different configurations works great for doing tailfeather, gear, torque tube etc.. The lower shelf is a must as it stabilizes the table and provides great storage. If I recall they worked out to about $60 apiece and I had a lot of 3/4" plywood left over for other things. That was 2 years ago. |
#37
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"Corrie" wrote Haven't built the legs yet; it's sitting on an old worktable for now in the workroom in the basement. Still need to work out the details of how I'm going to to do the feet. My garage floor isn't level, so I need to figure a way to rig vertically-adjustable locking casters. Use 4 x 4's and put the casters off to one corner. Drill a pilot hole for a 3/8" lag bolt. Roll the table where you want it, then use a wrench to back the bolts out, till the weight is sitting on them, instead of the casters. -- Jim in NC --- Outgoing mail is certified Virus Free. Checked by AVG anti-virus system (http://www.grisoft.com). Version: 6.0.714 / Virus Database: 470 - Release Date: 7/2/2004 |
#38
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"Morgans" wrote in message ...
"Corrie" wrote Haven't built the legs yet; it's sitting on an old worktable for now in the workroom in the basement. Still need to work out the details of how I'm going to to do the feet. My garage floor isn't level, so I need to figure a way to rig vertically-adjustable locking casters. Use 4 x 4's and put the casters off to one corner. Drill a pilot hole for a 3/8" lag bolt. Roll the table where you want it, then use a wrench to back the bolts out, till the weight is sitting on them, instead of the casters. Yeah, I'd thought of that. I'd like to find a solution that doesn't require me to crawl around the table with a wrench, popping up and down to see if it's level yet. Hard on these old knees. G I'd like to use locking casters rather than jacking the table off the wheels. Still need to think on it some more, but I've got in mind making a moveable "foot" at the bottom of the leg. The foot would be adjustable vertically, probably riding on a threaded rod for a jackscrew. The locking caster would be at the bottom of the foot. The idea is to be able to put the table away at the end of the day, leave room in the garage for a ground vehicle. |
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