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#1
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DG-300 instrument panel
I'm thinking of starting anew with the instrument panel in the 300.
The Terra 720 radio is out, and the L-NAV works, but it came with an old Garmin 95 GPS, which looks more like a typewriter, and no logger. I'm looking to do a Cambridge 302, with a good radio, and remove the compass from atop the cowling, and put it into the panel. The panel I have now is drilled with 4 80mm holes and one 57mm hole, with the other space taken up by 3 fuses, and voltage indicator. I was hoping some 300 type people might be kind enough to send a few pics of updated panels? thanks |
#2
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DG-300 instrument panel
wrote in message
ups.com... I'm thinking of starting anew with the instrument panel in the 300. The Terra 720 radio is out, and the L-NAV works, but it came with an old Garmin 95 GPS, which looks more like a typewriter, and no logger. I'm looking to do a Cambridge 302, with a good radio, and remove the compass from atop the cowling, and put it into the panel. The panel I have now is drilled with 4 80mm holes and one 57mm hole, with the other space taken up by 3 fuses, and voltage indicator. I was hoping some 300 type people might be kind enough to send a few pics of updated panels? thanks I think your question was about panel layout and not the actual construction of a panel, but the following may help even if it is a bit of a thread fork. If you have a modest collection of shop tools, you can make a very good looking panel. Start with some 3/4" thick high density particle board or plywood and, using the old panel for a guide, cut a template with the layout you think you like. Very accurate and clean 80mm and 57 mm holes can be cut in the wood template with large Forstner bits in a drill press. Hole saws work too but the holes are not as neat as Forstner bits make. Using this new template and a router with a carbide ball bearing guide bit, cut a .1/8" thick plexiglass test panel. The clear plexi prototype lets you mount all the new goodies in the glider and see any conflicts behind the panel while validating the new layout. Loop this process until you run out of patience or have the exact layout you like. Then, use the final template and the router to cut the actual panel out of your material of choice. If this strikes you as way too much work, use a PC CAD program to lay out the panel and e-mail a .DXF file to a laser cutting shop who will cut the new panel for you. Some will even cut plexi test panels for you to play with. Hint: to get the panel outline right, trace the old panel on a large sheet of graph paper and then transfer the grid points to the CAD program. If you choose aluminum for the actual panel, you can have that black anodized for another $75. Bill Daniels |
#3
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DG-300 instrument panel
Bill Daniels wrote:
I think your question was about panel layout and not the actual construction of a panel, but the following may help even if it is a bit of a thread fork. The 300 (along with all single seat DGs) uses a molded fiberglass panel which is also the primary structural element of the instrument pod. It might be possible to fold up an aluminum sheet replacement, but that probably can't be done right with home shop tools. It is likely cheaper and easier to buy a new blank panel from AMS. Back to the original topic: there are two standard layouts that people have used, both have three 80mm instruments across the top. The early choice (from the days when most instruments were 80mm) was two 57mm holes in the second row (one of which is missing on the OPs glider) with an 80mm hole centered below. Later on, most people put four 57mm holes in two rows in the lower part of the panel. You can put an additional 57mm+ instrument in the pedestal that supports the instrument pod, this is where the radio usually goes, along with fuses, power switches, etc. It is pretty difficult to come up with workable alternative arrangements (although you can obviously omit holes), as there are various clearance issues with the pod cover. You may also run into troubles with long 57mm instruments in the lower part of the panel, I couldn't get a B50 to fit properly down there, and (while I haven't tried it) to get a 302 to fit you may need to take the cover off the serial cable connector. I've seen some ugly looking mods to the cover to allow for alternative arrangements and deeper instruments, don't go there if you don't have to. If I can find a picture of my 303 panel (latter arrangement above, with compass in panel), I'll post a link... Marc |
#4
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DG-300 instrument panel
I've sent the original poster photos of my panel before and after
changes I had done. Within reason it is possible to fiberglass patch existing holes and redrill them. I'd go this route instead of trying to fabricate a new panel. I had this done to my DG-303. As Marc says the tapered sides of the instument panel shroud are a problem. In my case this prevented the normal Becker transponders or radios being mounted in the lower panel cutouts. (the radio normally goes in it's own curout below the main panel). In my case both 57mm bottom holes in the panel were filled and a new hole cut in the center of this filled area to accoodate a Becker radio, a Becker transponder was installed where the radio normlly goes. Of course you lose an instument position. It is also possible to cut the instument shroud and make fabricate on a "bubble" to accomodate the longer instuments but I didn't want to do this. Becker also makes remote mount radios and transponders but they are more expensive and you have to find somewere to install the remote unit. Darryl |
#5
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DG-300 instrument panel
Folks, please don't use aluminum panels. The edge of that
panel can act like a knife in an accident (and yes, this has happened and lets skip the gory details). For this reason I believe most manufacturers have gone to a glass panel with a molded flange. Its easy to make one of these; you can use the old one to make a mold if you don't want to buy one from AMS. Be safe out there, Best Regards, Dave |
#6
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DG-300 instrument panel
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#7
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DG-300 instrument panel
Bill Daniels wrote:
Loop this process until you run out of patience or have the exact layout you like. Then, use the final template and the router to cut the actual panel out of your material of choice. If this strikes you as way too much work, use a PC CAD program to lay out the panel and e-mail a .DXF file to a laser cutting shop who will cut the new panel for you. Some will even cut plexi test panels for you to play with. Hint: to get the panel outline right, trace the old panel on a large sheet of graph paper and then transfer the grid points to the CAD program. You take a look at try http://emachineshop.com/, which provides an easy to use CAD program that will provide immediate quotes from the drawing you make. A large choice of materials and finishes is available, including fiberglass sheet. -- Change "netto" to "net" to email me directly Eric Greenwell Washington State USA |
#8
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DG-300 instrument panel
Thanks Bill, I just happen to have some 1/8" plexiglass in my shop
from when I built my router table, so I have that tool too! I might try and get hold of a carbon fiber blank and use that for a svelt looking panel! |
#9
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DG-300 instrument panel
Gerard,
There are good resources within ASA that can offer some ideas and have machine tools. For example, cut out the face of your existing panel, leaving the perimeter flange and a small portion of the face intact. Make a new face out out aluminum that is full size. Fasten the new face to the old flange portion. Tom On Sat, 28 Jan 2006 12:53:36 -0800, Gprosnier wrote: Thanks Bill, I just happen to have some 1/8" plexiglass in my shop from when I built my router table, so I have that tool too! I might try and get hold of a carbon fiber blank and use that for a svelt looking panel! |
#10
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DG-300 instrument panel
E-Machine is a great service. I have used it to produce
some fairly complicated CNC aluminum parts. They are not cheap, fast (typically 4 weeks) nor will their software handle much in compound curves but then again you don't have to take a course to understand it. At 20:42 28 January 2006, Eric Greenwell wrote: Bill Daniels wrote: Loop this process until you run out of patience or have the exact layout you like. Then, use the final template and the router to cut the actual panel out of your material of choice. If this strikes you as way too much work, use a PC CAD program to lay out the panel and e-mail a .DXF file to a laser cutting shop who will cut the new panel for you. Some will even cut plexi test panels for you to play with. Hint: to get the panel outline right, trace the old panel on a large sheet of graph paper and then transfer the grid points to the CAD program. You take a look at try http://emachineshop.com/, which provides an easy to use CAD program that will provide immediate quotes from the drawing you make. A large choice of materials and finishes is available, including fiberglass sheet. -- Change 'netto' to 'net' to email me directly Eric Greenwell Washington State USA |
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