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#12
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How to make a spinner
On Sat, 1 Dec 2007 12:09:12 -0800 (PST), "
wrote: You may find the message cited below to be of interest. http://groups.yahoo.com/group/volksplane/message/23610 -R.S.Hoover Bob, I tried for this message, but Yahoo insisted I join Vplane first and told me to wait for an approval..... Brian Whatcott Altus OK |
#13
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How to make a spinner
"Maxwell" wrote in news:CQj4j.11542$KK1.11438
IIRC, when I saw them making these in production, they used a large hydraulic tracer lathe, and did them in one shot. Yep, its really hard to find someone to learn the skill. and IF you can get a machine to do it, the corp. folks love it. When I first learned, there were only 3 of us in the shop out of 50 that could do it. when I retired, I was the last.. Now the work is done in India...that shop is no more. the Corp. decided that they could do the work overseas rather than train and maintain an all-around machine shop... End of political statement... |
#14
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How to make a spinner
wrote You may find the message cited below to be of interest. http://groups.yahoo.com/group/volksplane/message/23610 Would you mind doing a copy and paste for us? I don't belong to yahoo groups, and would rather not join. -- Jim in NC |
#15
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How to make a spinner
"John Szalay" wrote in message 42... "Maxwell" wrote in news:CQj4j.11542$KK1.11438 When I first learned, there were only 3 of us in the shop out of 50 that could do it. when I retired, I was the last.. Now the work is done in India...that shop is no more. the Corp. decided that they could do the work overseas rather than train and maintain an all-around machine shop... End of political statement... Having only seen it done years ago with all steel tooling, I never actually tried it myself. But he made it look so easy using much less tooling, I think I'm going to have to give it a try some day. |
#16
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How to make a spinner
On Dec 1, 1:49 pm, "Morgans" wrote:
Would you mind doing a copy and paste for us? -------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- Posting only the message I cited would throw things out of context, which you'd see for yourself if you went there, read the msg and saw the associated thread. (Which was about using ALUMINUM instead of fiberglas.) To keep it IN context makes it a bit clumsy to cut & paste but since this is a fairly small Group, odds are no one will notice, so here goes. In January of '07 we were talking about Fuel Tanks over on the Volksplane Group. Which lead to the following exchange: - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - The most difficult part was developing the cone for the sump... ---------------------------------------------------- Doesn't HAVE to be a cone (although it looks nicer). What it HAS to be is a SUMP; lowest point of the tank. Go down to the Goodwill Store, see if they've got an aluminum sauce-pan the right size. Or even buy one NEW, if you're that sorta fella :-) Flat also works. (Think of a pyramid sliced down the middle, top to bottom.) Get some poster-board or just heavy paper, fool around with it. (Duct tape is your Friend :-) Aluminum isn't all that tricky -- it wants to work with you. Take your time, do a couple of trial tanks using flashing, siding or whatever to build up your confidence. You CAN do it... and it won't look all that bad when you done neither. Here's the basic idea: Just sitting, moisture will condense inside your fuel tank. So you want a tank in which any water will flow to the lowest point, which is where your outlet needs to be located, both for the parked attitude of the plane and for when it's in normal flight. All of your plumbing is bent so there's ALWAYS a 'down-hill' slope between the tank and the gascolator, which is the physically lowest point of the fuel system. That means ANY liquid water in the system ends up in the gascolator, so's you can drain it out before you go flying. You can define all that in engineering terms if you want but it's just plain old-fashioned common sense as practiced by aviators even before we had airy-nautical engineers :-) It's kinda like the joke about Orville Wright's flight instructor :-) Of course, if you ain't got no common sense then you need all them rules & regulations, agencies & engineers just to protect you against yourself, even though it can get kinda crowded in in single-place flying machine. Fortunately for the human race, most folks DO have a good dose of Common Sense. -R.S.Hoover REMEMBER NOW, THE BASIC CONTEXT HAD TO DO WITH ALUMINUM vs FIBERGLAS. (Making spinners, we usta start with a 6-qt 'Wearever' aluminum sauce pan. When you got done, you could still see the 'Wearever' logo on the nose :-) - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - That closing paragraph caused Steve Bray to ask: Chief Please say a little more about the Wearever spinner. Sounds like a good idea to me. ----------------------------------------------------------- Long, long ago in a garage far, far away a fellow combined parts of a heavy-duty wood-turning lathe with a work bench made out of steel I-beams. He used it to make 'Moon' hub caps and other spun shapes. A couple of us crazies talked him into making us some spinners, which he finally agreed to do after a suitable exchange of valuta. What we didn't know was that you need a form to spin things on and for a prop-spinner you needed three of the damn things: The spinner itself, the base-plate (ie, UNDER the prop) and the spider-plate (ie, OVER the prop. all of which had to fit AND match the depth of the prop itself, none of which were equal. (Yeah, there's other ways to do it; this is the Good Way :-) The form for the spinner was made of concentric stacks of maple, glued-up one at a time until we had a beehive about ten inches in diameter and mebbe 12 inches high. The spinner-guy then mounted it on a base-plate and turned it to a beautiful curve. He then made a live center that matched the nose and fitted into the tail-stock of his spinning machine. To make a prop-spinner you clamped a piece of dead soft 3003 on the nose of the maple form, holding it in place with the live center, the cup of which was also maple. To form the metal you used an old fashioned screw-driver the size of a pry-bar -- at least 2 feet long -- the end of which had been heated, bent into a hook (!) and then polished shinier than a new dime. (He had a whole rack of the things, each with a different shape on the end.) You dipped the hook into a can of awful smelling stuff (rancid lanolin was one of the ingredients) and turned on the machine, which was powered by a 3hp AC-DC motor belted to the head-stock. Not a vee-belt, the flat kind. Instead of a carriage the lathe had a kind of adjustable rail that could be set-up parallel to the work. The rail had a row of holes in the top into which the spinner would drop a steel rod about three-quarters of an inch in diameter and mebbe six inches long, so that about half the rod -- or pin -- was sticking out. What happened next is a bit hard to believe but he'd wedge that long screw-driver against the pin so it acted as a lever with the pin as the fulcrum, and press the under-side of that greasy, polished hook against the disk of aluminum... and then LEAN INTO IT, bending the aluminum disk as it spun around, molding it to the shape of the maple form. He didn't do it all at one go. He'd move the pin and adjust the bar and what-not until he'd smoothed/bent/spun that sheet of aluminum right up to the face-plate. It didn't always work -- sometimes the aluminum would tear or crack where he tried to smooth out a wrinkle, and sometimes it would simply come out too thin. He told us to bring him better metal and suggested the aluminum pots, which worked better than a disk of aluminum 'borrowed' from the 500 Shop at NAS Alameda. -R.S.Hoover PS -- Counting back, that was 49 years ago. I may have forgotten some of the details but I can still smell that greasy stuff :-) |
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