Any suggestions on how to remove waterproofing

I'll try again,

Any suggestions on how to remove a good dose of waterproofing (non
silicon) from a fiberglass and resin (vinyl Ester) lay-up?

Can it be done safely and with no lasting, or long term aftereffects?
This is inside the horizontal stab where strength is pretty important.

I'm to the point of installing the hinges, or pitching it and starting
over if I can't clean it to the point where I'm satisfied future bonds
will be secure under high stress.

Roger Halstead (K8RI & ARRL life member)
(N833R, S# CD-2 Worlds oldest Debonair)
www.rogerhalstead.com

`Roger
The maker of the waterproofing should be able to supply you with a material
safety data sheet , this will list the main ingerdients in it. The makers of
the viynlester resin should be able to tell you what effect these chemicals
may have on a finished layup.Most cured layups are pretty resistant to mild
solvents and detergents.Search the net for info on the chemicals in the
waterproofing, and also for info on the resin.
Regards
Ken Reynolds

On Mon, 22 Nov 2004 09:44:27 -0000, "Ken Reynolds"
wrote:


`Roger
The maker of the waterproofing should be able to supply you with a material
safety data sheet , this will list the main ingerdients in it.

The problem there is finding someone at the company "Wilson Leather"
who talks to the public and knows what an MSDS is. The public
relations people weren't aware of such a thing or that it is required
by law. Soooo They are looking for someone who does know.

The makers of
the viynlester resin should be able to tell you what effect these chemicals
may have on a finished layup.Most cured layups are pretty resistant to mild

The maker of Dow Derakane will not talk to any one who is using their
materials in the construction of an airplane. Hence, it is highly
stressed boat or car part.

solvents and detergents.Search the net for info on the chemicals in the
waterproofing, and also for info on the resin.

I'm taking an end run on the resin and talking to some of the chemists
"in the know".

As I mentioned I have two main concerns. I still have to do
additional bonding to this area. The bottom shell has to be bonded to
the ribs and shear web in this area. The backing plates and nuts for
the elevator hinge bolts also have to be potted. It'd be really
inconvenient to have one of those come loose.

Then there is the long term effect on the chemical bonds. Near as I
can tell that shouldn't be a problem, but this is taking a lot of time
to research.

Thanks,

Roger Halstead (K8RI & ARRL life member)
(N833R, S# CD-2 Worlds oldest Debonair)
www.rogerhalstead.com

Regards
Ken Reynolds