engine pre-oiler

On Dec 31, 9:18 am, "Maxwell" wrote:
"Stuart & Kathryn Fields" wrote in messagenews:uqGdnbOh57S2juTanZ2dnUVZ_qGknZ2d@iwvis p.com...

Maxwell: The engine is installed in my Baby Belle helicopter. It has a
dry sump located just below the accesory case and a flat plate replaces
the normal cast sump which contained the intake manifold. A new intake
manifold was constructed, drain tubes made for the valve covers and an oil
return was fashioned connected to the accesory case. Works like
gangbusters so far (230hrs). If you want I could snap a shot and send
them to you via e-mail?

That's ok Stu, I have a pretty good idea what your installation looks like.
I was trying to picture the installation Dan keeps referring to.

None so far. Next time I have the cowling off I'll take
some, and then I'll have to set up some account somewhere to post
them.

Dan

On Dec 30, 7:27 pm, "Morgans" wrote:

One thing to keep in mind, is that the pre oiler will not do anything to
lubricate the camshaft, one of the parts that takes the most wear on dry
start-up.

If this is a non certified application, you could split the cases and add a
spray bar to help the cam.
--
Jim in NC

Lycoming is now installing roller tappets in most of their factory
overhauls, and I would suppose they're building the new engines with
them, too. They're likely finding too much cam and lifter wear in the
engines cores they get back. The rollers would be happy with minimal
oil during startup.



Dan

Maxwell wrote:
"cavelamb himself" wrote in message
...

KISS!

Keep it Simple stupid.

AND

Lighter is better.



Agreed. But what do you suggest would be lighter and simpler?




Well, the first question is - does it really NEED a pre-oiler?

If it has roller tappets installed, it really doesn't need the preoiler.

If it doesn't have roller tappets, I'd add those before adding an oiler.

YMMV


Richard

On Dec 31, 11:28 am, cavelamb himself wrote:
Maxwell wrote:
"cavelamb himself" wrote in message
...

KISS!

Keep it Simple stupid.

AND

Lighter is better.

Agreed. But what do you suggest would be lighter and simpler?

Well, the first question is - does it really NEED a pre-oiler?

If it has roller tappets installed, it really doesn't need the preoiler.

If it doesn't have roller tappets, I'd add those before adding an oiler.

YMMV

Richard

The case has to be remachined to accept roller tappets; the
bore is squared off to keep the tappet roller lined up with the cam.
And the cam profile is different.
In short, you buy an engine from Lycoming.

The preoiler still helps with bearing wear. My A-65 had the
front rod bearing and crank journal badly worn, since the oil arrives
some time after start. The wear was a little less on the next journal,
and the back two improved over that. Told me that the front bearing
was oil-starved for too long too many times.
The galleries drain after shutdown, though the bearings and
tappet bores. Preoiling helps, at least in this old engine. The
Lycomings we fly every day in training don't have any wear issues and
could easily go 3000 hours. They're still really strong at TBO.

Dan

Yeah, Yeah, I know all about the "lighter" stuff. I've been throwing the
parts in the air and only using the ones that didn't come down. I've got
some serious scars from head injuries inflicted by rejected parts and am
having a hell of a time finding where the good ones went. But I agree
"lighter is better"

Stu
"cavelamb himself" wrote in message
...
Maxwell wrote:
"cavelamb himself" wrote in message
...

Maxwell wrote:

"Stuart & Kathryn Fields" wrote in message
om...


Maxwell: Do you know of a tiny gear pump or where to look that might
be used by hand or cordless drill? Is there a problem with gear pumps
requiring priming?


How about something like this, or perhaps something like it in aluminum.
http://www.clarksol.com/html/prodspe...l_00RGPump.htm
Just mount it below the sump so it's always primed. Just include a good
check valve so you couldn't loose oil presure back through it. This
particular size would probably be best driven by a cordless drill, but a
higher displacement unit might be turned with a had crank.



Yep in some ways the accumulator looks good except it does take up a
bit of space.


Yeah, and useless if you forget to reset it during shutdown, and limited
to about a quart of prime.





Don't you think thi sis getting a little over the top now?

It's an O-320.

Not an R9800.



What would you suggest?




KISS!

Keep it Simple stupid.

AND

Lighter is better.