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#41
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engine pre-oiler
On Dec 31, 9:18 am, "Maxwell" wrote:
"Stuart & Kathryn Fields" wrote in messagenews:uqGdnbOh57S2juTanZ2dnUVZ_qGknZ2d@iwvis p.com... Maxwell: The engine is installed in my Baby Belle helicopter. It has a dry sump located just below the accesory case and a flat plate replaces the normal cast sump which contained the intake manifold. A new intake manifold was constructed, drain tubes made for the valve covers and an oil return was fashioned connected to the accesory case. Works like gangbusters so far (230hrs). If you want I could snap a shot and send them to you via e-mail? That's ok Stu, I have a pretty good idea what your installation looks like. I was trying to picture the installation Dan keeps referring to. None so far. Next time I have the cowling off I'll take some, and then I'll have to set up some account somewhere to post them. Dan |
#42
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engine pre-oiler
On Dec 30, 7:27 pm, "Morgans" wrote:
One thing to keep in mind, is that the pre oiler will not do anything to lubricate the camshaft, one of the parts that takes the most wear on dry start-up. If this is a non certified application, you could split the cases and add a spray bar to help the cam. -- Jim in NC Lycoming is now installing roller tappets in most of their factory overhauls, and I would suppose they're building the new engines with them, too. They're likely finding too much cam and lifter wear in the engines cores they get back. The rollers would be happy with minimal oil during startup. Dan |
#43
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engine pre-oiler
Maxwell wrote:
"cavelamb himself" wrote in message ... KISS! Keep it Simple stupid. AND Lighter is better. Agreed. But what do you suggest would be lighter and simpler? Well, the first question is - does it really NEED a pre-oiler? If it has roller tappets installed, it really doesn't need the preoiler. If it doesn't have roller tappets, I'd add those before adding an oiler. YMMV Richard |
#44
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engine pre-oiler
On Dec 31, 11:28 am, cavelamb himself wrote:
Maxwell wrote: "cavelamb himself" wrote in message ... KISS! Keep it Simple stupid. AND Lighter is better. Agreed. But what do you suggest would be lighter and simpler? Well, the first question is - does it really NEED a pre-oiler? If it has roller tappets installed, it really doesn't need the preoiler. If it doesn't have roller tappets, I'd add those before adding an oiler. YMMV Richard The case has to be remachined to accept roller tappets; the bore is squared off to keep the tappet roller lined up with the cam. And the cam profile is different. In short, you buy an engine from Lycoming. The preoiler still helps with bearing wear. My A-65 had the front rod bearing and crank journal badly worn, since the oil arrives some time after start. The wear was a little less on the next journal, and the back two improved over that. Told me that the front bearing was oil-starved for too long too many times. The galleries drain after shutdown, though the bearings and tappet bores. Preoiling helps, at least in this old engine. The Lycomings we fly every day in training don't have any wear issues and could easily go 3000 hours. They're still really strong at TBO. Dan |
#45
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engine pre-oiler
Yeah, Yeah, I know all about the "lighter" stuff. I've been throwing the
parts in the air and only using the ones that didn't come down. I've got some serious scars from head injuries inflicted by rejected parts and am having a hell of a time finding where the good ones went. But I agree "lighter is better" Stu "cavelamb himself" wrote in message ... Maxwell wrote: "cavelamb himself" wrote in message ... Maxwell wrote: "Stuart & Kathryn Fields" wrote in message om... Maxwell: Do you know of a tiny gear pump or where to look that might be used by hand or cordless drill? Is there a problem with gear pumps requiring priming? How about something like this, or perhaps something like it in aluminum. http://www.clarksol.com/html/prodspe...l_00RGPump.htm Just mount it below the sump so it's always primed. Just include a good check valve so you couldn't loose oil presure back through it. This particular size would probably be best driven by a cordless drill, but a higher displacement unit might be turned with a had crank. Yep in some ways the accumulator looks good except it does take up a bit of space. Yeah, and useless if you forget to reset it during shutdown, and limited to about a quart of prime. Don't you think thi sis getting a little over the top now? It's an O-320. Not an R9800. What would you suggest? KISS! Keep it Simple stupid. AND Lighter is better. |
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