Installing a wood prop...

"SteveR" wrote in message
...

Tonight I'm going to install a prop on my plane (Pietenpol with a
Continental A-75) and go up for a quick flight. I've never done a prop
install before, so I want to make sure I get it right.

I figured I'll torque the bolts, run the plane for 10-15 minutes on the
ground, check the torque, take it up for a brief test flight, then check
the torque again. Any tips or things I should be careful for or watch
for? I'm a little nervous as I'll be doing it without anyone looking
over my shoulder.


--
SteveR

Sensenich recommends 200 inch/lbs., plus or minus 15, on wooden props for
the A-75 and tracking tolerance at 1/16th inch maximum. And you should
re-torque occasionally.

If you need to correct prop track use mylar rather than paper because paper
is hygroscopic and will cause your flange to rust. It did mine, so I bought
some mylar and cut semicircular pieces which fit over three nuts behind the
propeller. After several trials and errors I ended up with three layers of
mylar and dead nuts track.

Old wives' tales in these parts say you should keep your wooden prop level
at horizontal so that it stays balanced.

I have gone to single strand .041 wire to safety the prop bolts. All that
twisting double strands and straining and grunting -- and sooner or later
you will skin your beautiful prop. Plus, it's hard to fit a skullcap
spinner over double-stranded wire.

BTW, a well-finished wooden prop is an aesthetically pleasing thing on an
aircraft or over a mantle. Most people say it's gentler on your crankshaft,
but for the little Continental engines it's not as efficient as the TCDS
prop in aluminum from Sensenich or McCauley.