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![]() wrote in message oups.com... RST Engineering wrote: But the paper HAS to come apart if we want to leave ONLY the thermo-plastic material bonded to our circuit board. So use the cheap stuff. And soak it in warm soapy water. Then scrub it with a tooth brush or whatever -- get ALL of the paper off of the thermo-plastic. One of those green kitchen pot scrubbers does a pretty fair job getting the paper off while leaving the toner on the board. -------------------------------------------------------------------- Agree. Initially, I went at the paper in a very tentative way, worried that any amount of scrubbing would remove the toner. Which is something of a joke. If you've used enough heat, the toner STAYS, despite scrubbing with everything that came to hand. --------------------------------------------------------------------- Not only does this method allow you to make near-perfect reproductions of data plates and the like, it allows you to etch logos, names and so forth onto aluminum tool boxes, prepare 'engraved' plates for presentations, and so on. The tricky bit here is that you are typically etching in the positive sense rather than the negative. I found the best way to do this was to make individual masks -- OIL PRESSURE -- 10 A -- TACHOMETER ...or whatever. The characters themselves are left clear and the mask is cut to leave a border of toner. These masks are then ironed on to the panel, plate or whatever in the usual manner. (Large pieces, such as a tool box or instrument panel, will benefit from being pre-heated.) Once the masks have been transferred to the work-piece all of the open areas are sealed with something that will resist the etchant; regular enamel paint works okay. This is a case where acid has a definite advantage, since the object is to remove a signficant amount of metal. Once the piece is finished, the etched areas may be filled with a contrasting paint. The joke here is that I spent a couple of years making instrument faces, 'antique' compases and the like before I realized the method could also be used to make circuit boards :-) -R.S.Hoover Would a color copy (negative) transfer the same way? This way you could make labels and placards and then iron them on, color and all... |
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..Blueskies. wrote:
snipped wrote in message oups.com... RST Engineering wrote: One of those green kitchen pot scrubbers does a pretty fair job getting the paper off while leaving the toner on the board. -------------------------------------------------------------------- Would a color copy (negative) transfer the same way? This way you could make labels and placards and then iron them on, color and all... White would be tough on most printers ![]() Sounds like somma you guys have actually tried this technique and had good results with it. I'm surprised. But it's good news. I tried it many years ago using a copy machine copy. Hey, That's all we had! The results were luke warm at best. The traces were porous and often had to be "jumped" with wire. Large ground planes would fade out in the center. As would any traces running nearby. No way they were good enough for microprocessor based boards. That still required a photo shoot to make masks. Is this trick working better now with a laser printer? Richard |
#3
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Richard Lamb wrote:
.Blueskies. wrote: Would a color copy (negative) transfer the same way? This way you could make labels and placards and then iron them on, color and all... White would be tough on most printers ![]() Richard snip snip etc How bout high temp (engine/exhaust) paint? Make a mask to paint only where your transfer will be and pain it white the color copy will handle the rest. The high temp paint would need to handle the temp of the iron without discoloring. I haven't tried it but it's an idea! Anyone want to give it a go and report back? ;-) John |
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UltraJohn wrote:
Richard Lamb wrote: .Blueskies. wrote: Would a color copy (negative) transfer the same way? This way you could make labels and placards and then iron them on, color and all... White would be tough on most printers ![]() Richard snip snip etc How bout high temp (engine/exhaust) paint? Make a mask to paint only where your transfer will be and pain it white the color copy will handle the rest. The high temp paint would need to handle the temp of the iron without discoloring. I haven't tried it but it's an idea! Anyone want to give it a go and report back? ;-) John How about a simple step directly to silk screen process? |
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