LED and PCBs

On 14 Mar 2006 10:32:22 -0800, "Denny" wrote:

Yah Roger... But is that average figured with or without Bill Gates in
the pool?
Without him I'm above average...
With him I'm out in the median, picking up beer cans for the deposit...

R.S. Hoover... Well, it may be true that hams are genetically encoded
to be able to solder... OTOH I've seen some ham solder jobs that raise
questions of genetic damage...

Been out in my shop again, huh? I thought I had all those projects
hidden.

Just finished redoing the leading edge of the one elevator
shell...again!. Looks pretty good this time. Now I need to figure out
how to set up a small router to cut out the hinge access points so
they look good. Sand and fill, sand and fill, sand and fill, fill and
sand. (I like to change the routine and add a little variety at
times.)

Today was expensive. 250 Gig WD hard drive failed. Warranty failed
two weeks ago. Display failed on my Kenwood TM-V7A mobile rig. Free
replacement if I purchased it between Jan 1, 2000 and Jan 1, 2006. I
purchased it about the end of May 1999. $160 just for the display but
that does include shipping six bucks for shipping.

Roger Halstead (K8RI & ARRL life member)
(N833R, S# CD-2 Worlds oldest Debonair)
www.rogerhalstead.com

denny
k8do, and a bunch of other initials

"Roger" wrote

Just finished redoing the leading edge of the one elevator
shell...again!. Looks pretty good this time. Now I need to figure out
how to set up a small router to cut out the hinge access points so
they look good.

I would use a jig, and a router bit to follow the jig. Make a big letter
"O", of whatever size and shape you need, tape it to the surface, and let
the non cutting surface of the bit follow around the inside of the template,
using rotation to force it to the template. I hope this is clear enough.
--
Jim in NC

On Wed, 15 Mar 2006 17:33:17 -0500, "Morgans"
wrote:


"Roger" wrote

Just finished redoing the leading edge of the one elevator
shell...again!. Looks pretty good this time. Now I need to figure out
how to set up a small router to cut out the hinge access points so
they look good.

I would use a jig, and a router bit to follow the jig. Make a big letter
"O", of whatever size and shape you need, tape it to the surface, and let
the non cutting surface of the bit follow around the inside of the template,
using rotation to force it to the template. I hope this is clear enough.

That's pretty much what I've been thinking, but the leading edge
curves down and I having come up with a form to follow the edge.
My big router, which is way too big for this job has some bits that
have ball bearings on the shanks for roll along the guide.
I'd like to come up with something like that on a 1/4" bit and I have
some aluminum channel that I could probably form to fit the shape of
the elevator skin. I'd use 1" angle for the back of the cut and run
the angle full length of the skin which would make the cuts uniform.
OTOH it takes a steady hand even with a guide. :-)) It that bit,
bites it can make it through the guides and half way across the shell
in an instant. Then I'd be rebuilding more than the leading edge.
No, I wouldn't. that'd be the point where I called New Glasair and
ordered a new set of elevator skins.

Thanks,

Roger Halstead (K8RI & ARRL life member)
(N833R, S# CD-2 Worlds oldest Debonair)
www.rogerhalstead.com

Roger:

Just lay out the "U" shape with a fine point marker, the go to work with a
1/2" diameter sanding drum in a Dremil tool. Rough-out the opening, sand
into each corner, free-hand to within 1/16 of the three straignt lines, then
finish sanding by hand with a small sanding stick.

The whole procedure can be completed in less time than it took me to
describe it.


BJC

"Roger" wrote in message
...
On Wed, 15 Mar 2006 17:33:17 -0500, "Morgans"
wrote:


"Roger" wrote

Just finished redoing the leading edge of the one elevator
shell...again!. Looks pretty good this time. Now I need to figure out
how to set up a small router to cut out the hinge access points so
they look good.

I would use a jig, and a router bit to follow the jig. Make a big letter
"O", of whatever size and shape you need, tape it to the surface, and let
the non cutting surface of the bit follow around the inside of the
template,
using rotation to force it to the template. I hope this is clear enough.

That's pretty much what I've been thinking, but the leading edge
curves down and I having come up with a form to follow the edge.
My big router, which is way too big for this job has some bits that
have ball bearings on the shanks for roll along the guide.
I'd like to come up with something like that on a 1/4" bit and I have
some aluminum channel that I could probably form to fit the shape of
the elevator skin. I'd use 1" angle for the back of the cut and run
the angle full length of the skin which would make the cuts uniform.
OTOH it takes a steady hand even with a guide. :-)) It that bit,
bites it can make it through the guides and half way across the shell
in an instant. Then I'd be rebuilding more than the leading edge.
No, I wouldn't. that'd be the point where I called New Glasair and
ordered a new set of elevator skins.

Thanks,

Roger Halstead (K8RI & ARRL life member)
(N833R, S# CD-2 Worlds oldest Debonair)
www.rogerhalstead.com

On Thu, 16 Mar 2006 00:34:58 GMT, "Byron Covey"
wrote:

Roger:

Just lay out the "U" shape with a fine point marker, the go to work with a
1/2" diameter sanding drum in a Dremil tool. Rough-out the opening, sand

Actually they are rectangular notches about 1" deep and 3" wide.

into each corner, free-hand to within 1/16 of the three straignt lines, then
finish sanding by hand with a small sanding stick.

But.. that takes skill.

The whole procedure can be completed in less time than it took me to
describe it.

Actually I did the narrow ones very much like this. Rather than the
sanding drum I used a cut off wheel. You let it run along the surface
line (slightly undersize). It will create a grove which makes the
following passes stay true until you eventually cut through.

Narrow ones?

Backing up a bit here. When the horizontal stab is upright, the
elevators have slots on top about 3/8" wide cut to clear the hinge
arms. The under side of the elevators have the hinge bolt access slots
so you can remove the hinge bolts and then the elevators.
The elevator travel is limited to about 30 degrees nose up and 18
degrees nose down. When at rest it is also at the nose down limit and
the narrow (top) slots are barely visible. OTOH the access slots are
always visible from the underside even when the elevator is full nose
down.
With the elevator full nose up the hinge bolts are fully exposed.

My goal is to get the access slots straight, square, true, with
radiused corners so they will look like who ever did them knew what he
was doing.

Roger Halstead (K8RI & ARRL life member)
(N833R, S# CD-2 Worlds oldest Debonair)
www.rogerhalstead.com


BJC

"Roger" wrote in message
.. .
On Wed, 15 Mar 2006 17:33:17 -0500, "Morgans"
wrote:


"Roger" wrote

Just finished redoing the leading edge of the one elevator
shell...again!. Looks pretty good this time. Now I need to figure out
how to set up a small router to cut out the hinge access points so
they look good.

I would use a jig, and a router bit to follow the jig. Make a big letter
"O", of whatever size and shape you need, tape it to the surface, and let
the non cutting surface of the bit follow around the inside of the
template,
using rotation to force it to the template. I hope this is clear enough.

That's pretty much what I've been thinking, but the leading edge
curves down and I having come up with a form to follow the edge.
My big router, which is way too big for this job has some bits that
have ball bearings on the shanks for roll along the guide.
I'd like to come up with something like that on a 1/4" bit and I have
some aluminum channel that I could probably form to fit the shape of
the elevator skin. I'd use 1" angle for the back of the cut and run
the angle full length of the skin which would make the cuts uniform.
OTOH it takes a steady hand even with a guide. :-)) It that bit,
bites it can make it through the guides and half way across the shell
in an instant. Then I'd be rebuilding more than the leading edge.
No, I wouldn't. that'd be the point where I called New Glasair and
ordered a new set of elevator skins.

Thanks,

Roger Halstead (K8RI & ARRL life member)
(N833R, S# CD-2 Worlds oldest Debonair)
www.rogerhalstead.com

My goal is to get the access slots straight, square, true, with
radiused corners so they will look like who ever did them knew what he
was doing.

Roger Halstead (K8RI & ARRL life member)
(N833R, S# CD-2 Worlds oldest Debonair)
"Roger" wrote

Oh you mean your trying to deceive! ;-)
John

On Fri, 17 Mar 2006 02:06:36 GMT, UltraJohn
wrote:


My goal is to get the access slots straight, square, true, with
radiused corners so they will look like who ever did them knew what he
was doing.

Roger Halstead (K8RI & ARRL life member)
(N833R, S# CD-2 Worlds oldest Debonair)
"Roger" wrote

Oh you mean your trying to deceive! ;-)

Certainly! :-))

If I have to resort to jigs, machine tools, and plain old technology
to replace skill, I'll do so in a second...IF it's within my financial
means to do so.

Every one, or at least those who follow the directions just close the
elevators, horizontal stab, ailerons, and flaps on a flat table and
use weights. I weld up fixtures to hold things straight and then
clamp them together. Of course if I get too enthusiastic with the
clamps I could end up with very thin elevators.

Clamps are at the bottom row on the page.
http://www.rogerhalstead.com/G3_file.../glasair12.htm
except something seems to have gone wrong with the page and I can see
the photos for the bottom third. Looks like I'm going to have to call
the ISP as I've not changed anything. I probably just need to reload
some *stuff*.

Oh, to heck with it. I think I'll go to the airport and play.

Roger Halstead (K8RI & ARRL life member)
(N833R, S# CD-2 Worlds oldest Debonair)
www.rogerhalstead.com

John

On Wed, 15 Mar 2006 01:44:29 -0500, Roger
wrote:

On 14 Mar 2006 10:32:22 -0800, "Denny" wrote:

Yah Roger... But is that average figured with or without Bill Gates in
the pool?
Without him I'm above average...
With him I'm out in the median, picking up beer cans for the deposit...

This post never turned up on my server so I'm kinda answering it out
of order.

Even though ol' Bill is worth 40 some Billion, his annual income is
probably no more than a paltry few hundred million. Divide that by
the number of tax payers and for the average he isn't going to change
it more than a dollar or two.

Median leaves a lot to the imagination as to how they figure it. Is
it on every return based on value. (Every return with a value of say
$20,000 is lumped together and the total only counts as one), or do
they count it in brackets in increments of a $1000, $2000, $10,000.
Each bracket would only count as one. More than likely they go in
steps of a million or more up in that rarified atmosphere.

As an exaggeration they could have one bracket of zero to 20,000, one
of 20 to 30 thousand, and one of everything greater than 30 thousand.
That would make the median the 20 to 30 thousand range. or zero to
$100, $100 to $200, and everyone over $200 and the medial becomes $100
to $200.

OTOH when it comes to average would they be using gross or taxable
income? Or something else?

Ain't government accounting wonderful. We'd go to jail for using
their math.

Roger Halstead (K8RI & ARRL life member)
(N833R, S# CD-2 Worlds oldest Debonair)
www.rogerhalstead.com


R.S. Hoover... Well, it may be true that hams are genetically encoded
to be able to solder... OTOH I've seen some ham solder jobs that raise
questions of genetic damage...

Been out in my shop again, huh? I thought I had all those projects
hidden.

Just finished redoing the leading edge of the one elevator
shell...again!. Looks pretty good this time. Now I need to figure out
how to set up a small router to cut out the hinge access points so
they look good. Sand and fill, sand and fill, sand and fill, fill and
sand. (I like to change the routine and add a little variety at
times.)

Today was expensive. 250 Gig WD hard drive failed. Warranty failed
two weeks ago. Display failed on my Kenwood TM-V7A mobile rig. Free
replacement if I purchased it between Jan 1, 2000 and Jan 1, 2006. I
purchased it about the end of May 1999. $160 just for the display but
that does include shipping six bucks for shipping.

Roger Halstead (K8RI & ARRL life member)
(N833R, S# CD-2 Worlds oldest Debonair)
www.rogerhalstead.com

denny
k8do, and a bunch of other initials