![]() |
If this is your first visit, be sure to check out the FAQ by clicking the link above. You may have to register before you can post: click the register link above to proceed. To start viewing messages, select the forum that you want to visit from the selection below. |
|
|
Thread Tools | Display Modes |
|
#1
|
|||
|
|||
![]() Ferric Chloride may be safer than Muratic Acid Not even close. http://www.artmondo.net/printworks/articles/ferric.htm Spent ferric chloride can be neutralized with soda as well. Yes, and you wind up with several gallons of the most wonderful brown permanent dye you can imagine. Plus, I THIINK Ferric Chloride is the commonly available de-smuting solution you need to anodize 2000 series aluminum. I'm only going to worry about anodizing 5052, which has very little copper or zinc, so desmutting shouldn't be a problem. For dyeing anodized aluminum, try RIT, or page through this catalog: http://dharmatrading.com/html/eng/2934904-AA.shtml Sealing, I guess you'll have to use clear lacquer. I had thought about RIT, and I've been told that food dye will also do the job. I'll just have to experiment. Jim |
#2
|
|||
|
|||
![]()
Jim said:
Ferric Chloride may be safer than Muratic Acid Not even close Can you say more? Let me first say I don't work with either on a regular basis - I'm sure you have LOTS of experience with Ferric Chloride. But if you've etched copper with the Muratic Acid/Hydrogen Peroxide solution you're advocating, it will have lots of copper ions in it, and it's the copper that makes spent Ferric Chloride a Hazardous Waste. http://www.mgchemicals.com/techsupport/ferric_faq.html Make no mistake, I'm not presenting Ferric Chloride as benign - it's clearly not: http://www.jtbaker.com/msds/englishhtml/f1080.htm Neither is Muriatic Acid: http://householdproducts.nlm.nih.gov...ds&id=16009010 Why do you see Muriatic Acid as less trouble? I'm genuinely curious... Highest Regards, |
#3
|
|||
|
|||
![]() Let me first say I don't work with either on a regular basis - I'm sure you have LOTS of experience with Ferric Chloride. Only on a rather steady basis since 1963 or so. But if you've etched copper with the Muratic Acid/Hydrogen Peroxide solution you're advocating, it will have lots of copper ions in it, and it's the copper that makes spent Ferric Chloride a Hazardous Waste. http://www.mgchemicals.com/techsupport/ferric_faq.html That is correct. However, you can toss a pad of steel wool into the muriatic acid when you are done and the copper will plate out onto the wool. Metallic copper is not a hazmat. Steel wool is not a hazmat. Neutralized muriatic acid is not a hazmat. Ferric chloride loaded with copper is and it is NOT easy to precipitate out the copper from a ferric chloride solution. That's why one accepted method of disposal is inside a concrete "septic tank" that is then sealed. Make no mistake, I'm not presenting Ferric Chloride as benign - it's clearly not: http://www.jtbaker.com/msds/englishhtml/f1080.htm Neither is Muriatic Acid: http://householdproducts.nlm.nih.gov...ds&id=16009010 Why do you see Muriatic Acid as less trouble? I'm genuinely curious... Because I have to have a hazmat license to use ferric chloride in the classroom laboratory and I can buy muriatic acid and hydrogen peroxide from the home depot without any permits at all. Jim |
Thread Tools | |
Display Modes | |
|
|
![]() |
||||
Thread | Thread Starter | Forum | Replies | Last Post |
KX-155 LEDs | Steven Barnes | Owning | 21 | July 11th 13 09:04 AM |
Nav Lights using Luxeon LEDs | Andrew Sarangan | Home Built | 28 | March 7th 06 09:18 PM |
More LED's | Veeduber | Home Built | 19 | June 9th 04 10:07 PM |
LEDs for Nav Lights - Jim Weir | Scott Gettings | Home Built | 3 | February 17th 04 01:53 AM |
LEDs | Morgans | Home Built | 6 | August 19th 03 03:49 AM |