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#1
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Fortunat1 wrote:
Thanks, this is exactly what I discovered. It's good to know I'm going down the correct path. You are drilling the cleanest hole, but still may not be going down the right path. The report I quoted was written before the invention of modern epoxies. I think that coating oversize holes in the wood with epoxy will give you a stronger structure by further reducing the bearing stress on the wood, but that is just my opinion. Also, there's a small ridge formed on the edge of each hole. I figure it's OK to leave the excess material there for a couple of reasons, one, it provides more material for the bolt to rest against, and two it won'ts interfere with tightening the bolts down since there will only be a washer up against the hole anyway. Assuming it is not just an ordinary burr, it sounds like one of the following things is happening: A)Your drill bit is dull, particularly on the edges of the flutes and you are applying too much pressure to the drill to make it cut, causing the hole to pucker. B)The reamer you are using is dull, or the drilled hole is too small for that reamer and the reamer is cold working the hole rather than cutting. In my experience, this will create the pucker you are describing. The cold worked hole will also close up slightly when the reamer is removed, creating the tight fit you are describing. If it is poor practice to leave the ridge on the edge, what's the best method for getting rid of it? Aside from a special machien, I thought of carefully cutting it down with a large dril bit, but I'd be afraid of doing some damage to the part. Any suggestions? I personally would not be comfortable leaving the ridge, particularly since I do not know what it looks like. If it is an ordinary burr, I would use a deburring tool. Charles |
#2
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Charles Vincent wrote in
: Fortunat1 wrote: Thanks, this is exactly what I discovered. It's good to know I'm going down the correct path. You are drilling the cleanest hole, but still may not be going down the right path. The report I quoted was written before the invention of modern epoxies. I think that coating oversize holes in the wood with epoxy will give you a stronger structure by further reducing the bearing stress on the wood, but that is just my opinion. You're probably right, but the way I see it is that airplanes just like this have been flying wth their original spars since the flood, so if it was ood enough for them it's god enough for me. Also, this is a plank spar, not a capped spar, so there iis plenty of meat there. I'll certainly keep the epoxy thing in mind in case I screw up some of the holes when drilling them out for fittings, though. Nice to know there is a fix for any mistakes. Yes, pucker is a better word for it. the drills are nice and sharp and I'm getting a good cut there. I've been cutting them out to 7.7 mm and then reaming to 5/16th. You're right, some of the holes are cut pretty clean, but the reamer soon produces the rounded pucker as you so aptl put it. If it is poor practice to leave the ridge on the edge, what's the best method for getting rid of it? Aside from a special machien, I thought of carefully cutting it down with a large dril bit, but I'd be afraid of doing some damage to the part. Any suggestions? I personally would not be comfortable leaving the ridge, particularly since I do not know what it looks like. If it is an ordinary burr, I would use a deburring tool. OK, it's not a burr, it's more the pucker you describe. does this mean the part is trash, or can I leave it or should i try a deburring tool on it? The reamers are new and seem nice and sharp, I am getting swarf, but not as much maybe as you would expect.. |
#3
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Fortunat1 wrote:
Yes, pucker is a better word for it. the drills are nice and sharp and I'm getting a good cut there. I've been cutting them out to 7.7 mm and then reaming to 5/16th. You're right, some of the holes are cut pretty clean, but the reamer soon produces the rounded pucker as you so aptl put it. You are using the reamer to cut .009 inches of material. Generally, I don't try to do more than .002 to .003. As far as correcting the parts, you need guidance from someone else. With the metal cold worked like that, I personally would look closely(with a magnifying glass or an industrial microscope since I have one) at the edges to see if there are any tiny cracks. I expect there are. Charles |
#4
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Charles Vincent wrote in news:yX0Bi.47964$Um6.15150
@newssvr12.news.prodigy.net: Fortunat1 wrote: Yes, pucker is a better word for it. the drills are nice and sharp and I'm getting a good cut there. I've been cutting them out to 7.7 mm and then reaming to 5/16th. You're right, some of the holes are cut pretty clean, but the reamer soon produces the rounded pucker as you so aptl put it. You are using the reamer to cut .009 inches of material. Generally, I don't try to do more than .002 to .003. As far as correcting the parts, you need guidance from someone else. With the metal cold worked like that, I personally would look closely(with a magnifying glass or an industrial microscope since I have one) at the edges to see if there are any tiny cracks. I expect there are. Oh dear, which means I've just wrecked a whole lot of parts. I'll have a looksee with a magnifying glass. I did try to cut them out to 7.9 mm, but I was afraid it might be too deep a cut and that the triangular hole cut by the drill might leave it's remains around the edges. |
#5
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Fortunat1 wrote:
Oh dear, which means I've just wrecked a whole lot of parts. I'll have a looksee with a magnifying glass. I did try to cut them out to 7.9 mm, but I was afraid it might be too deep a cut and that the triangular hole cut by the drill might leave it's remains around the edges. Don't make any assumptions based on my comments. I am unfamiliar with the plane you are building, I do not know the metal variety you are working with and have not seen the parts. Finally, I do not have experience building enough airplanes to rely on experience when answering you. Metalworking I do know about, so I could make a pretty good guess as to what your problem was and the probable ramifications. I suggest you talk to the designer of your airplane or another builder of it. Charles |
#6
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Charles Vincent wrote in
: Fortunat1 wrote: Oh dear, which means I've just wrecked a whole lot of parts. I'll have a looksee with a magnifying glass. I did try to cut them out to 7.9 mm, but I was afraid it might be too deep a cut and that the triangular hole cut by the drill might leave it's remains around the edges. Don't make any assumptions based on my comments. I am unfamiliar with the plane you are building, I do not know the metal variety you are working with and have not seen the parts. Finally, I do not have experience building enough airplanes to rely on experience when answering you. Metalworking I do know about, so I could make a pretty good guess as to what your problem was and the probable ramifications. I suggest you talk to the designer of your airplane or another builder of it. Well, both the guys who had a hand designing this thing are dead, so that's going to be a bit difficult! (Neither in a Hatz, BTW) The material is 4130 steel which is a relativley high carbon steel if you're not familiar with it. Seems to me you've hit the problem on the head first time out. Your experience is obvious! I had a look with a not too powerful magnifying glass and couldn't see any obvious cracks. There's the occasional scratch in the holes in the direction of the cut, presumably from a bit of swarf getting caught in the reamer. The ridge around the edges mostly stand up about .002 or so, and maybe a little less than that in thickness. They're more regular in appearance and much thicker than you'd see from drilling, for instance, but they're still not so perfect around their edge you could tell a crack from just an irregularity.At least I couldn't. I do have someone who can look at them here, though, so that's what I'll have to do to be sure. Thanks for the heads up on that! They say you make two airplanes when you make your first one, the one you fly and the one you throw away.. ;( |
#7
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Charles Vincent wrote in news:yX0Bi.47964$Um6.15150
@newssvr12.news.prodigy.net: Fortunat1 wrote: Yes, pucker is a better word for it. the drills are nice and sharp and I'm getting a good cut there. I've been cutting them out to 7.7 mm and then reaming to 5/16th. You're right, some of the holes are cut pretty clean, but the reamer soon produces the rounded pucker as you so aptl put it. You are using the reamer to cut .009 inches of material. Generally, I don't try to do more than .002 to .003. As far as correcting the parts, you need guidance from someone else. With the metal cold worked like that, I personally would look closely(with a magnifying glass or an industrial microscope since I have one) at the edges to see if there are any tiny cracks. I expect there are. OK, looked at the holes using s 10X microscope and they're not exactly mirror finished, but they don't look too bad for the most part. I didn't find any cracks, but I did find some microscopic chatter marks, scrapes and chips along the edges. Also found a couple of gouges that ran across the holes from edge to edge that could best be described as a "step". None of these imperfections were deeper than say, .002, if even that deep. I do have my "guy" comong over to have a look, but from my description on the phone he thinks they're probably OK. It's all learning, eh? |
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Reaming needed on aft wing attach point. | Boelkowj | Home Built | 0 | November 7th 03 01:30 AM |