|
| If this is your first visit, be sure to check out the FAQ by clicking the link above. You may have to register before you can post: click the register link above to proceed. To start viewing messages, select the forum that you want to visit from the selection below. |
|
|||||||
|
|
Thread Tools | Display Modes |
|
|
|
#1
February 20th 04, 03:11 PM
|
|||
|
|||
John, that has been the point I have been beating on... A quick preheat does
nothing, except convince the pilot he is being good to the engine... A thorough preheat of a number of hours, with adequate insulation and keeping the wind off the prop blades, does bring the engine core temperature up, and certainly does no harm... Leaving heat on the engine all the time may set you up for condensation rusting - depends on the details... My experience has been that with semisynthetic, multiviscosity oils preheating is not necessary - until you reach arctic conditions.. denny "John Galban" wrote in The reason for the Alaskan habit is that when temps go low enough, a chunk of frozen oil can develop in the crankcase. Even after preheating the engine to what seems to be a suitable temp, you can have a frozen chunk of oil surrounded by slightly warmer liquid oil. (PA28-180) 
|
|
#2
February 20th 04, 03:25 PM
|
|||
|
|||
|
"Dennis O'Connor" wrote in message ... John, that has been the point I have been beating on... A quick preheat does nothing, except convince the pilot he is being good to the engine... A thorough preheat of a number of hours, with adequate insulation and keeping the wind off the prop blades, does bring the engine core temperature up, and certainly does no harm... Leaving heat on the engine all the time may set you up for condensation rusting - depends on the details... Yes...unless you use both a cylinder AND an oil sump heater. http://www.reiffpreheat.com/FAQ.htm#QA3
|
|
#3
February 23rd 04, 06:38 PM
|
|||
|
|||
|
Even then, without proper insulation you can still get corrosion. I no
longer leave mine plugged in 24/7 (I have Reiff cylinder and oil pad heaters), because before my recent overhaul my mechanic noted that the front cams were badly spalled and had sigificant corrosion where the rear ones looked nearly new. The most likely explanation was the uninsulated prop acting as a heat sink on the front end of the engine providing for a heavier condensation density near the front of the engine. Reiff's article does say to use a cover, but they fail to mention also insulating the prop. Tom Sixkiller wrote: Leaving heat on the engine all the time may set you up for condensation rusting - depends on the details... Yes...unless you use both a cylinder AND an oil sump heater. http://www.reiffpreheat.com/FAQ.htm#QA3 -- --Ray Andraka, P.E. President, the Andraka Consulting Group, Inc. 401/884-7930 Fax 401/884-7950 http://www.andraka.com "They that give up essential liberty to obtain a little temporary safety deserve neither liberty nor safety." -Benjamin Franklin, 1759
|
| Thread Tools | |
| Display Modes | |
|
|
Similar Threads
|
||||
| Thread | Thread Starter | Forum | Replies | Last Post |
| Turbine air start -- too cold? | Juan Jimenez | Home Built | 97 | March 14th 05 06:51 PM |
| Turbine air start -- too cold? | Juan Jimenez | General Aviation | 54 | February 2nd 05 04:14 AM |
| Cold War relic F/A-22 initially designed for air-to-air combat with Soviet MiGs | Larry Dighera | Military Aviation | 7 | April 2nd 04 07:05 PM |
| Soviet Spy Planes over the West during the Cold War | Rusty B | Military Aviation | 6 | February 19th 04 04:53 PM |
| Battery Replacement and Cold Cranking Amps | O. Sami Saydjari | Owning | 27 | February 2nd 04 02:38 PM |
Hybrid Mode
