Windsheild cleaning

pacplyer wrote:

(OSKI 3) wrote in message ...
I don't know how many folks I have talked to, do NOT know about.
Bounty paper towels (MICROWAVE/COOKING). I have used these for 15
years and have not had to replace a windshield yet. These towels are
specifically for Microwave use and have No metal recycled crap in them.
A lot better than trying to find used socks to do the job. This is just a hint
and not an ad for the Company. I DO NOT work for them! Just thought
I would pass along for what ever it is worth. Get in touch with the Company
and they will verify if you need reassurance. Ok all you no it alls, FLAME
Away.

Bill Oparowski
N10SX
N101SX

Flame #1: Use Lemon Pledge for your windshield. It's cheaper than old
clumps of Mirror Glaze, works better and the FBO's in the desert that
use it have never had to replace a windscreen due to scratches (even
with students.) It leaves a slight flim on the surface of your
polycarbonate (plexiglass)which suspends abrasive particles. But use
the cheapest plain towels at CostCo. I DO work for them on commission,
so you must send me a dollar every time you clean you windshield this
way. ;-)

pacplyer - out

p.s. Microwave towels are the dumbest thing I've ever heard of. Just
take a bowl of water and nuke it for four minutes. Wait a while so
you don't loose your vision to water explosions. Microwave cleans off
like nothing. Or be stupid and spend your money on microwave towels.
It's the same thing.

How's that for a flame? ;-)


Where do I send my bucks?


Richard

Richard Lamb wrote in message ...
pacplyer wrote:

(OSKI 3) wrote in message ...
I don't know how many folks I have talked to, do NOT know about.
Bounty paper towels (MICROWAVE/COOKING). I have used these for 15
years and have not had to replace a windshield yet. These towels are
specifically for Microwave use and have No metal recycled crap in them.
A lot better than trying to find used socks to do the job. This is just a hint
and not an ad for the Company. I DO NOT work for them! Just thought
I would pass along for what ever it is worth. Get in touch with the Company
and they will verify if you need reassurance. Ok all you no it alls, FLAME
Away.

Bill Oparowski
N10SX
N101SX

Flame #1: Use Lemon Pledge for your windshield. It's cheaper than old
clumps of Mirror Glaze, works better and the FBO's in the desert that
use it have never had to replace a windscreen due to scratches (even
with students.) It leaves a slight flim on the surface of your
polycarbonate (plexiglass)which suspends abrasive particles. But use
the cheapest plain towels at CostCo. I DO work for them on commission,
so you must send me a dollar every time you clean you windshield this
way. ;-)

pacplyer - out

p.s. Microwave towels are the dumbest thing I've ever heard of. Just
take a bowl of water and nuke it for four minutes. Wait a while so
you don't loose your vision to water explosions. Microwave cleans off
like nothing. Or be stupid and spend your money on microwave towels.
It's the same thing.

How's that for a flame? ;-)


Where do I send my bucks?


Richard

My kind of crowd! I'll be passing a hat around at the next Rutan
X-prize launch. ;-) Where'd you learn so much about spacecraft? I'm
impressed. By the way Rich, are there any Saturn V or LEM blueprints
in existance?; I saw that you hang out at the sci.space groups. I'd
kill to get a reproduction to hang up in my hangar.

cheers,

pac

pac

I was told by Kimberly Clark that common paper towels are NOT good for cleaning
polycarbonate or acrylic glass. This would also apply to using tissues on eye
glasses.
Old style diapers are good for canopy cleaning.
GA
N39KK

I bought some expensive paper based polishing towels from a plastics
company. They were touted as the 'perfect' acrylic cleaning rag.
Unfortunately, they scratched a test piece of plexy just like any paper
towel. The common advice to use only soft cloth rags seems to be well
founded.

I have polished out scratched canopies and to do it right is a LOT of work.
Best to never get them scratched in the first place.

There are some good scratch removing polishing compounds available but I
always wind up with McGuire's #10 as the final wax. #10 takes a lot of work
to do it right but the wax is exactly the same refractive index as Plexiglas
so the remaining scratches disappear. There is a story going around that
#10 leaves the canopy statically charged which attracts dust. I've never
seen this if the polish job is done according to the label instructions.

Bill Daniels

"Nolaminar" wrote in message
...
I was told by Kimberly Clark that common paper towels are NOT good for
cleaning
polycarbonate or acrylic glass. This would also apply to using tissues on
eye
glasses.
Old style diapers are good for canopy cleaning.
GA
N39KK

Bill Daniels wrote:

I bought some expensive paper based polishing towels from a plastics
company. They were touted as the 'perfect' acrylic cleaning rag.
Unfortunately, they scratched a test piece of plexy just like any paper
towel. The common advice to use only soft cloth rags seems to be well
founded.

I have polished out scratched canopies and to do it right is a LOT of work.
Best to never get them scratched in the first place.

There are some good scratch removing polishing compounds available but I
always wind up with McGuire's #10 as the final wax. #10 takes a lot of work
to do it right but the wax is exactly the same refractive index as Plexiglas
so the remaining scratches disappear. There is a story going around that
#10 leaves the canopy statically charged which attracts dust. I've never
seen this if the polish job is done according to the label instructions.

Bill Daniels


Thanks for the wax recomendation, Bill.

Would you go into more detail on the scratch _removal_ stuff.

I have a 1968 Hughes OH6A that I'm restoring for display (non-flying)
at the new Army Aviation museum.

When I got her, the right side of the bubble was heavily coated
with a hard mineral deposit. I tried a lot of different things
but finally took it off mechanically with wet 1500/2000 grit paper.
That worked ok, but left the obvious hazy results, which I am now
trying to clear up.

The last issue on this project is that I have no financial support
of any kind for this project. So what ever will work is what I'll do,
but cheaper is better!

Thanks,

Richard Lamb

"Richard Lamb" wrote in message
...
Bill Daniels wrote:

I bought some expensive paper based polishing towels from a plastics
company. They were touted as the 'perfect' acrylic cleaning rag.
Unfortunately, they scratched a test piece of plexy just like any paper
towel. The common advice to use only soft cloth rags seems to be well
founded.

I have polished out scratched canopies and to do it right is a LOT of
work.
Best to never get them scratched in the first place.

There are some good scratch removing polishing compounds available but I
always wind up with McGuire's #10 as the final wax. #10 takes a lot of
work
to do it right but the wax is exactly the same refractive index as
Plexiglas
so the remaining scratches disappear. There is a story going around
that
#10 leaves the canopy statically charged which attracts dust. I've
never
seen this if the polish job is done according to the label instructions.

Bill Daniels


Thanks for the wax recomendation, Bill.

Would you go into more detail on the scratch _removal_ stuff.

I have a 1968 Hughes OH6A that I'm restoring for display (non-flying)
at the new Army Aviation museum.

When I got her, the right side of the bubble was heavily coated
with a hard mineral deposit. I tried a lot of different things
but finally took it off mechanically with wet 1500/2000 grit paper.
That worked ok, but left the obvious hazy results, which I am now
trying to clear up.

The last issue on this project is that I have no financial support
of any kind for this project. So what ever will work is what I'll do,
but cheaper is better!

Thanks,

Richard Lamb

My last project used NOVUS #3 for starters followed by #2 for the remaining
fine scratches. NOVUS makes a #1 wax but I think McGuire's #10 is a lot
better.

I don't think there is any magic to these products, just a lot of hard work.
(If you think you are done. you aren't.) Don't get tempted to use any power
tools. Work slowly with muscle power. Plan a couple of full days to
complete each step.

Bill Daniels

Bill Daniels wrote:

"Richard Lamb" wrote in message
...
Bill Daniels wrote:

I bought some expensive paper based polishing towels from a plastics
company. They were touted as the 'perfect' acrylic cleaning rag.
Unfortunately, they scratched a test piece of plexy just like any paper
towel. The common advice to use only soft cloth rags seems to be well
founded.

I have polished out scratched canopies and to do it right is a LOT of
work.
Best to never get them scratched in the first place.

There are some good scratch removing polishing compounds available but I
always wind up with McGuire's #10 as the final wax. #10 takes a lot of
work
to do it right but the wax is exactly the same refractive index as
Plexiglas
so the remaining scratches disappear. There is a story going around
that
#10 leaves the canopy statically charged which attracts dust. I've
never
seen this if the polish job is done according to the label instructions.

Bill Daniels


Thanks for the wax recomendation, Bill.

Would you go into more detail on the scratch _removal_ stuff.

I have a 1968 Hughes OH6A that I'm restoring for display (non-flying)
at the new Army Aviation museum.

When I got her, the right side of the bubble was heavily coated
with a hard mineral deposit. I tried a lot of different things
but finally took it off mechanically with wet 1500/2000 grit paper.
That worked ok, but left the obvious hazy results, which I am now
trying to clear up.

The last issue on this project is that I have no financial support
of any kind for this project. So what ever will work is what I'll do,
but cheaper is better!

Thanks,

Richard Lamb

My last project used NOVUS #3 for starters followed by #2 for the remaining
fine scratches. NOVUS makes a #1 wax but I think McGuire's #10 is a lot
better.

I don't think there is any magic to these products, just a lot of hard work.
(If you think you are done. you aren't.) Don't get tempted to use any power
tools. Work slowly with muscle power. Plan a couple of full days to
complete each step.

Bill Daniels


Aw fudge. I have already started with Novus #2 - and doing it by hand.

People are gonna see that huge right arm and
jump to the wrong conclusions!

Richard (wax on - wax off)

pacplyer wrote:

Richard Lamb wrote in message ...
pacplyer wrote:


JIM WEIR wrote "CLIP IT!"


p.s. Microwave towels are the dumbest thing I've ever heard of. Just
take a bowl of water and nuke it for four minutes. Wait a while so
you don't loose your vision to water explosions. Microwave cleans off
like nothing. Or be stupid and spend your money on microwave towels.
It's the same thing.

How's that for a flame? ;-)


Where do I send my bucks?


Richard

My kind of crowd! I'll be passing a hat around at the next Rutan
X-prize launch. ;-) Where'd you learn so much about spacecraft? I'm
impressed. By the way Rich, are there any Saturn V or LEM blueprints
in existance?; I saw that you hang out at the sci.space groups. I'd
kill to get a reproduction to hang up in my hangar.

cheers,

pac

pac



Source for orbital trajectories?
Principa Mathmatica - Newton.
All else follows from that... :^)


Heck Pac, nobody believes I dropped out of high school at 17.
Nor that I'm considered a 350 credit hour sophmore at 54...

For what it's worth, my thesis is to understand exactly WHY the
answer to the question of life, the universe, and everything is 42.
( Douglas Adams, who passed away before publishing his research)

I found a bunch of detail stuff on Apollo and the LM a while back.
My history file only goes back 90 days, must have been longer than
that, because it wasn't there when I looked just now.

I believe I found that site via a google search for LEM history.

But I'll send you some of what I found.

Richard