What camera for pictures from a glider cockpit?

Andy Blackburn wrote:

At 03:12 08 December 2005, Chris wrote:

I've had some good luck with a wing mounted camera
using a Radio remote
control with a Harbortronics Digisnap 2200 controller
and Nikon Coolpix
5400 digital camera.



I have the same rig, but find the 5400 hs too much
shutter lag and way too small an LCD for handheld shots.

The new Fujis get great reviews for near-zero shutter
lags and excellent high-ASA performance. Some have
2.5' LCDs. They don't have lots of manual features
and I doubt they have remote shutter releases.

http://www.dpreview.com/reviews/fujifilmf10zoom/

The Fuji models are quite attractive, but only two current models seem
to have the wide angle (28 mm equivalent) that I want. The E500 and E510
have most of want I want and are priced well, but appear to have long
shutter lag, no continuous or burst mode, and a 2" LCD monitor that is
alleged to wash out in sunlight. So far, the Canon S80 seems to be the
best fit, but I don't know for sure that it's LCD is any better (though
it's bigger at 2.5"). None of them have remote releases, unfortunately,
but I think this can accomplished with some tinkering, using a low cost
radio control system for model cars/aiplanes.

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Eric Greenwell
Washington State
USA

Eric Greenwell wrote:
Andy Blackburn wrote:

At 03:12 08 December 2005, Chris wrote:

I've had some good luck with a wing mounted camera
using a Radio remote
control with a Harbortronics Digisnap 2200 controller
and Nikon Coolpix
5400 digital camera.



I have the same rig, but find the 5400 hs too much
shutter lag and way too small an LCD for handheld shots.

The new Fujis get great reviews for near-zero shutter
lags and excellent high-ASA performance. Some have
2.5' LCDs. They don't have lots of manual features
and I doubt they have remote shutter releases.

http://www.dpreview.com/reviews/fujifilmf10zoom/

The Fuji models are quite attractive, but only two current models seem
to have the wide angle (28 mm equivalent) that I want. The E500 and E510
have most of want I want and are priced well, but appear to have long
shutter lag, no continuous or burst mode, and a 2" LCD monitor that is
alleged to wash out in sunlight. So far, the Canon S80 seems to be the
best fit, but I don't know for sure that it's LCD is any better (though
it's bigger at 2.5"). None of them have remote releases, unfortunately,
but I think this can accomplished with some tinkering, using a low cost
radio control system for model cars/aiplanes.

You probably already know this but: if you go the RC way, be kind to the
RC pilots and either stick to 27 mHz or avoid the aircraft-only
frequencies. Boats and cars don't get written off by a bit of
interference like aircraft do.

It would also be interesting to know of the IR control systems used for
indoor models work for this application or if they get swamped by
sunlight reflected off the wings and fuselage.

--
martin@ | Martin Gregorie
gregorie. |
org | Zappa fan & glider pilot

snip
You probably already know this but: if you go the RC way, be kind to the
RC pilots and either stick to 27 mHz or avoid the aircraft-only
frequencies. Boats and cars don't get written off by a bit of
interference like aircraft do.
There usually are no RC equipment near where I fly, and if there were I
would have a problem too if they were on my frequency. I however am
only transmitting for about 1/2 second for each photo so it it not a
continuous broadcast.


It would also be interesting to know of the IR control systems used for
indoor models work for this application or if they get swamped by
sunlight reflected off the wings and fuselage.

Tried that - some pictures work - but the sunlight is definitely a
problem for many [but not all] angles. I got some good shots using a
Canon Powershot G5 and it's IR remote, but a lot of shots failed
because of the sun. I had built a glareshield that helped, but in the
end that was too frustrating to everything lined up for an air to air
shot and have no photo. This is why I switched to a radio control.
A wired controller would work too, but stringing a wire along the wing
where it could come loose and jam the flaps/aileron etc made me
disinterested in that approach.

chris wrote:

snip

You probably already know this but: if you go the RC way, be kind to the
RC pilots and either stick to 27 mHz or avoid the aircraft-only
frequencies. Boats and cars don't get written off by a bit of
interference like aircraft do.

There usually are no RC equipment near where I fly, and if there were I
would have a problem too if they were on my frequency. I however am
only transmitting for about 1/2 second for each photo so it it not a
continuous broadcast.

Shortening the antennas, on the receiver and transmitter on the
sailplane units would also reduce interference risks for all users.



It would also be interesting to know of the IR control systems used for
indoor models work for this application or if they get swamped by
sunlight reflected off the wings and fuselage.


Tried that - some pictures work - but the sunlight is definitely a
problem for many [but not all] angles. I got some good shots using a
Canon Powershot G5 and it's IR remote, but a lot of shots failed
because of the sun. I had built a glareshield that helped, but in the
end that was too frustrating to everything lined up for an air to air
shot and have no photo.

Sorry to hear that!

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Eric Greenwell
Washington State
USA

Martin Gregorie wrote:
None of them have remote
releases, unfortunately, but I think this can accomplished with some
tinkering, using a low cost radio control system for model cars/aiplanes.

You probably already know this but: if you go the RC way, be kind to the
RC pilots and either stick to 27 mHz or avoid the aircraft-only
frequencies. Boats and cars don't get written off by a bit of
interference like aircraft do.

Good thoughts - I was thinking of the cheapest car type with the
shortest usable antenna on the transmitter, since only 30 feet of range
is required.


It would also be interesting to know of the IR control systems used for
indoor models work for this application or if they get swamped by
sunlight reflected off the wings and fuselage.

I'm not aware of this type, but I suspect swamping wouldn't be a
problem. IR units typically use modulation to avoid ambient light level
problems. Do you have a URL or two I could look at?

--
Change "netto" to "net" to email me directly

Eric Greenwell
Washington State
USA

Eric Greenwell wrote:
Martin Gregorie wrote:
It would also be interesting to know of the IR control systems used
for indoor models work for this application or if they get swamped by
sunlight reflected off the wings and fuselage.

I'm not aware of this type, but I suspect swamping wouldn't be a
problem. IR units typically use modulation to avoid ambient light level
problems. Do you have a URL or two I could look at?

Sorry, no tried and tested URLs. I'm a Free Flight model flier not an RC
pilot but I read the mags and use the servos as output from Free Flight
models automatic systems. Asking your local RC club if any of them use
IR systems and talking to them if they do would probably be more useful
than reading web adverts. This way you'll find out what works and what
doesn't and crucially, what's available and well regarded in your area.

Having said that, I did a quick Google for "indoor IR control models".

http://n-lemma.com/indoorrc/

was the first hit. Cool pics, and there are links to equipment lists at
the bottom of the page. Who knows, you might even get into this stuff as
a winter activity. The links on this site may help too:

http://members.aol.com/Lecisifly/ztron.html

You need a receiver that can drive a standard servo. This will be easier
to rig to trip the camera release: the very light weight stuff uses
specialized, very small low powered control actuators and servos. Not
what you want. By "standard" servos I mean an off the shelf model shop
item with a three wire connection: they all accept the same signals and
voltage and, apart from the connectors used by different receivers, are
interchangeable. These range from small (20mm x 15mm x 7mm, 7g) upwards
and generate more oomph as they get bigger. The very small and cute
start to get expensive, but the "mini" and "standard" sizes are fairly
cheap: in the $20-$30 range per servo.

Take care to design your triggering mechanics so you can't stall a servo
or drive it into a limit stop: they don't like that at all.

--
martin@ | Martin Gregorie
gregorie. |
org | Zappa fan & glider pilot

Martin Gregorie wrote:

Having said that, I did a quick Google for "indoor IR control
models".

http://n-lemma.com/indoorrc/

was the first hit. Cool pics, and there are links to equipment lists
at the bottom of the page. Who knows, you might even get into this
stuff as a winter activity. The links on this site may help too:

http://members.aol.com/Lecisifly/ztron.html

When you wrote "indoor models", I assumed you meant "models used
indoors". What a surprise to see the rubber powered microfilm covered
models I used fly in college are now electric powered and radio controlled!

You need a receiver that can drive a standard servo. This will be
easier to rig to trip the camera release: the very light weight stuff
uses specialized, very small low powered control actuators and
servos. Not what you want. By "standard" servos I mean an off the
shelf model shop item with a three wire connection: they all accept
the same signals and voltage and, apart from the connectors used by
different receivers, are interchangeable. These range from small
(20mm x 15mm x 7mm, 7g) upwards and generate more oomph as they get
bigger. The very small and cute start to get expensive, but the
"mini" and "standard" sizes are fairly cheap: in the $20-$30 range
per servo.

I agree, the really small stuff is too small. Perhaps the "consumer" RC
model car stuff would be the best choice: cheap, and short range, so
unlikely to cause other users any grief.

Take care to design your triggering mechanics so you can't stall a
servo or drive it into a limit stop: they don't like that at all.

And it probably increases the current drain dramatically.

--
Change "netto" to "net" to email me directly

Eric Greenwell
Washington State
USA