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Engine Shop Selection (was 'showing metal @ 1,100)



 
 
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  #1  
Old January 6th 06, 04:41 PM posted to rec.aviation.owning
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Default Engine Shop Selection (was 'showing metal @ 1,100)

Before you do anything, you might want to check to see if your engine falls
under the expanded AD for the Lycoming O-360 crankshaft recall.

With regards to shop selection, I can recommend against Magnum engines in
Ohio. They are absolute crooks.


"Maule Driver" wrote in message
.. .
Based on the appearance of metal after 1,100 hours (filings in the filter
and doubling of FE content in 36 hour oil analysis), I'm having my
Lycoming o-360 taken apart. Two major choices to make:

1) Overhaul or 'look, see, fix'. That is, I could just go for an overhaul
(est $12,000 for 2,000 hours) or LSF (guesstimate $6,000k for 900 hours).
Of course there may not be a choice...

2) Shop selection. My mechanic is somewhat shop agnostic - they work with
Signature in Ohio and Mattituck.

Your thoughts and opinions are valued.



  #2  
Old January 6th 06, 05:21 PM posted to rec.aviation.owning
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Default Engine Shop Selection (was 'showing metal @ 1,100)

I think you are referring to the corrosion AD for o-360s with a CS prop?
That particular one doesn't apply to me since I have a fixed prop with
a solid crank.

Thanks

GE wrote:
Before you do anything, you might want to check to see if your engine falls
under the expanded AD for the Lycoming O-360 crankshaft recall.



  #3  
Old January 6th 06, 07:46 PM posted to rec.aviation.owning
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Default Engine Shop Selection (was 'showing metal @ 1,100)

Maule Driver wrote:
: I think you are referring to the corrosion AD for o-360s with a CS prop?
: That particular one doesn't apply to me since I have a fixed prop with
: a solid crank.

I was going to mention that but figured you already knew. IIRC, one can treat
the hollow crank to have it terminate the AD. With a solid crank that one should be
fine. There is, of course, the sintered iron oil pump AD... and a rash the connecting
rod bolts from Superior IIRC.

Seriously though... if you've got the bottom end apart, you'd be silly not to
spend the extra bit to get the steel parts magnafluxed. That's about the only
additional thing you'd have to do aside from what's *required* after you split the
cases, but it's enough to call it a bottom overhaul. From the sounds of the metal,
you'll likely be buying a new cam.

-Cory

--

************************************************** ***********************
* Cory Papenfuss *
* Electrical Engineering candidate Ph.D. graduate student *
* Virginia Polytechnic Institute and State University *
************************************************** ***********************

 




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