pushrod tube leak

On Oct 10, 9:52 am, "Tri-Pacer" wrote:
"Dick" wrote in message

news:_a3Pi.4046$ln.2730@trnddc07...

The engine is a C85 and somebody at field said it had swaged tubes...I
haven't looked yet but how can swaged tubes be removed? Sometimes I get
confused when asking before looking G. Thanks.
"John Kunkel" wrote in message
...

http://www.realgaskets.com/files/hor...tm#continental

On a C-85, I once fixed a leaky lower boot by taking off the
retaining rings and massaging the boot with a silicon lubricant,
then slipping the boot back on. The engine was relatively new
and I think the boot had been caught somehow on the original
assembly. Did not require any disassembly, but was a bear to
get to!! Ercoupe. YMMV. Bill Hale

On Oct 10, 12:39 pm, "
wrote:
On Oct 10, 9:52 am, "Tri-Pacer" wrote:

"Dick" wrote in message

news:_a3Pi.4046$ln.2730@trnddc07...

The engine is a C85 and somebody at field said it had swaged tubes...I
haven't looked yet but how can swaged tubes be removed? Sometimes I get
confused when asking before looking G. Thanks.
"John Kunkel" wrote in message
...

http://www.realgaskets.com/files/hor...tm#continental

On a C-85, I once fixed a leaky lower boot by taking off the
retaining rings and massaging the boot with a silicon lubricant,
then slipping the boot back on. The engine was relatively new
and I think the boot had been caught somehow on the original
assembly. Did not require any disassembly, but was a bear to
get to!! Ercoupe. YMMV. Bill Hale

The only way to replace that boot (and they're cheap) is
to pull the rockers and rods out and take the cylinder nuts off, back
the jug off and replace them. But if you do all that, you may as well
pull the jug right off and replace the cylinder base seal as well
(also cheap), because they harden and shrink and leak, too. You will
need spring clamp pliers to remove and reinstall the boot clamps. Hard
to find, those things, and without them you risk insanity.
The upper end of the tube, the swaged end, will often
leak. This can be fixed in place by removing the rocker cover,
squirting some sharp solvent like lacquer thinner or brake and parts
cleaner or contact cleaner into the joint, both sides, and using air
to blow it out. Do this a few times until you are sure the joint is
completely free of oil. Don't use Varsol or any other slow-drying
solvent. After it's clean, use a wicking grade of Loctite (290) or a
competitive equivalent and apply it to the joint. It will wick in
quickly. Apply enough that the joint won't take any more. Leave it
undisturbed for a few hours to set, and put the covers back on. Don't
try to accelerate it by warming it with a torch; fumes from the
cleaning fluid might be inside the tube and crankcase now and make
thing interesting. If you have to warm it, use a heat gun. And don't
get it too warm or the Loctite will run out. Don't let Loctite run
into the tube itself. Pieces of hardened Loctite have no business
floating around inside the case.

Dan