Komet trailer tires

Robin---
I'll second Mitch's vote!
I'm happy with the Maxxis.
Sway is more a function of the tow vehicle than anything else. Demonstrated
by towing same trailer, same road, same day, same speed--two different
vehicles, vastly different result. (as closely controlled experiment as we
could). Replaced poor performing vehicle with different vehicle--marked
improvement.
--
Hartley Falbaum
"KF" USA

"Mitch Deutsch" wrote in message
m...
RF

A number of us have switched to Maxxis, which makes a radial trailer tire.
(www.maxxis.com ST8008). All of MGSA's trailers and a number of private
owners have these tires, with no sway issues reported.

Here in Atlanta they are easy to get from their regional warehouse. I
suspect in JAX, they should be readily available.

I switched from a 165/80 14 to 175/80 14 which gave a slightly taller tire
and better ground clearance. I have Maxxis for about six years, and just
replaced my first set last month with a new set, obeying the John Murray
"five year" rule.



"Robin" wrote in message
...
I want to replace the tires on my Komet trailer. The original tire
size is P165/80 R13, which is now hard to find.

The choice seems to be either a Firestone passenger car radial in the
correct size or a slightly taller Towmaster made by Greenball. The
trailer tire will have a taller but stiffer sidewall. It will come a
little closer to the fender, but my mechanic says less than half an
inch closer. The size is 175/80 R13.

I plan to tow about 75 mph most of the time. I really want to avoid
sway.

Any experience with these tires out there?

Thanks,
Robin RF

"HL Falbaum" wrote

Sway is more a function of the tow vehicle than anything else.
Demonstrated by towing same trailer, same road, same day, same speed--two
different vehicles, vastly different result.

If you don't believe that, try towing ANY trailer with an uber short
wheelbase, low overhang vehicle, like a Jeep. A Jeep CJ vehicle will make
ANY trailer sway, with any trailer weight and balance.
--
Jim in NC

On Feb 23, 5:57*am, "Morgans" wrote:
"HL Falbaum" wrote

Sway is more a function of the tow vehicle than anything else.
Demonstrated by towing same trailer, same road, same day, same speed--two
different vehicles, vastly different result.

If you don't believe that, try towing ANY trailer with an uber short
wheelbase, low overhang vehicle, like a Jeep. *A Jeep CJ vehicle will make
ANY trailer sway, with any trailer weight and balance.
--
Jim in NC

That may be true for the CJ but I owned a 2-door Dodge 'Raider' aka
Mitsubishi 'Pajero'. This car had about the same dimensions as the CJ
but I towed my trailer from PA to CA and back without any sway
whatsoever. Good trailer tires and a good weight distribution in the
trailer plus the proper tounge weight are the key to happy trailering.
Uli

"GM" wrote in message
...
On Feb 23, 5:57 am, "Morgans" wrote:
"HL Falbaum" wrote

Sway is more a function of the tow vehicle than anything else.
Demonstrated by towing same trailer, same road, same day, same
speed--two
different vehicles, vastly different result.

If you don't believe that, try towing ANY trailer with an uber short
wheelbase, low overhang vehicle, like a Jeep. A Jeep CJ vehicle will make
ANY trailer sway, with any trailer weight and balance.
--
Jim in NC

That may be true for the CJ but I owned a 2-door Dodge 'Raider' aka
Mitsubishi 'Pajero'. This car had about the same dimensions as the CJ
but I towed my trailer from PA to CA and back without any sway
whatsoever. Good trailer tires and a good weight distribution in the
trailer plus the proper tounge weight are the key to happy trailering.
Uli

Not to belabor the point, but the two vehicles in my experiment were similar
size, weight, overhang. The real difference was suspension stiffness. A soft
'98 Chevrolet Tahoe, and a (about same year) Ford Expedition. The Ford had a
stiffer suspension and more precise steering. The Chev was soft and more
"loose", the sway always started at about 70mph. The Tahoe was replaced with
a '03 Avalanche---stiffer suspension, tighter steering. Same trailer was
then towed without sway at any speed.

Hartley Falbaum
"KF" USA

OK, so a proper fit between the hitch and ball is important, too.
What do I do with
my Cobra trailer that fits a 50mm ball? I actually *do* have a 50mm
ball but it has a
1" shank. However, my car has a 1.25" hitch receiver (factory
installed), and I can't
find any fittings that will take a 1" shank. For the moment I'm just
using a 1 7/8"
ball (47.6mm) since the trailer just goes from the tiedown to the end
of the runway,
and I've heard the horror stories of using a 2" ball (50.8mm). Any
ideas that don't
cost an arm and a leg (such as "buy a new car")?

-- Matt

Matt;

It is a good idea to have options. So, if someone else has to come get you
with their car, they are likely to have a 1 7/8" or a 2" ball.

It would be easy to replace the hitch on the trailer with either a 2" or 1
7/8" . These are commonly available, just bolt on. Then sell the 50mm ball.

For little money, a welding shop could make a custom mount---50mm ball with
1" shank into 2"x 1/4"x 1/4" square tube, welded onto 1 1/4 " tubing stub
and insert into your receiver.

50mm hitch on 1 7/8" ball is just a little sloppy--probably a minor factor,
but best to change something.

--
Hartley Falbaum

"mattm" wrote in message
...
OK, so a proper fit between the hitch and ball is important, too.
What do I do with
my Cobra trailer that fits a 50mm ball? I actually *do* have a 50mm
ball but it has a
1" shank. However, my car has a 1.25" hitch receiver (factory
installed), and I can't
find any fittings that will take a 1" shank. For the moment I'm just
using a 1 7/8"
ball (47.6mm) since the trailer just goes from the tiedown to the end
of the runway,
and I've heard the horror stories of using a 2" ball (50.8mm). Any
ideas that don't
cost an arm and a leg (such as "buy a new car")?

-- Matt

"HL Falbaum" wrote

It is a good idea to have options. So, if someone else has to come get you
with their car, they are likely to have a 1 7/8" or a 2" ball.

It would be easy to replace the hitch on the trailer with either a 2" or 1
7/8" . These are commonly available, just bolt on. Then sell the 50mm
ball.

For little money, a welding shop could make a custom mount---50mm ball
with 1" shank into 2"x 1/4"x 1/4" square tube, welded onto 1 1/4 " tubing
stub and insert into your receiver.

50mm hitch on 1 7/8" ball is just a little sloppy--probably a minor
factor, but best to change something.

I agree. Get a welding shop (if you are not able to do it yourself) to
change out the trailer hitch for a standard size like 2". (standard in this
area, anyway) Also, custom fit the 1 1/4" stub to your receiver. I have
usually found they fit loose as crap, unless you do something to make it fit
right.

I had good luck doing this by running two beads of weld down the length of
the hitch stub on two adjacent sides of the stub, then grind it down to a
"just right - slide in, but no wobble" fit. It is amazing how that can
reduce sway, and quiet down the ride down the road.

Anyone else with a sway problem have a sloppy fitting hitch - receiver fit?
Anyone do something to tighten up the fit?
--
Jim in NC

"HL Falbaum" wrote

Not to belabor the point, but the two vehicles in my experiment were
similar size, weight, overhang. The real difference was suspension
stiffness. A soft '98 Chevrolet Tahoe, and a (about same year) Ford
Expedition. The Ford had a stiffer suspension and more precise steering.
The Chev was soft and more "loose", the sway always started at about
70mph. The Tahoe was replaced with a '03 Avalanche---stiffer suspension,
tighter steering. Same trailer was then towed without sway at any speed.

Interesting. In my case, a Chevy Citation vs a CJ, and the CJ certainly had
the stiffer suspension, and it was worse. I think the tighness of the
steering may be playing a bigger factor than we are giving it credit for.
--
Jim in NC